Brake Lights Won't Come On...
#16
#17
Not 100% sure of your wiring diagram, but the 56 here i have intermittent issues with one brake light not operating...left one
have traced it to the turn signal switch under the steering wheel.
I can give it a 'wiggle' and the left light will work.
Now to pull the wheel and investigate... when the temps come down....
have traced it to the turn signal switch under the steering wheel.
I can give it a 'wiggle' and the left light will work.
Now to pull the wheel and investigate... when the temps come down....
I did look into that and it did correct it temporarily - somehow!?
Back to not coming on properly - Sad
Paul
#18
If you determine it is the brake light switch (most are set too heavy for our old systems).
My solution was buying a switch for a '91 Harley Davidson that uses the 1/8" pipe fitting and same electrical connections. Lighter pressure required and very dependable. More $$ but I figured it was worth it. fwiw
My solution was buying a switch for a '91 Harley Davidson that uses the 1/8" pipe fitting and same electrical connections. Lighter pressure required and very dependable. More $$ but I figured it was worth it. fwiw
You would happen to have a part number available for that Harley Davidson switch..? Does anyone here else agree with this method?
It appears that your idea may actually work. It seems that the harder I press on the brakes the lights come on. I will investigate... Once I recover from this last chemo round...
All is good my friends. Be prepared for the new arrival of Natalia this October!
Paul
#19
#20
#21
Your funny Paul. I used a mirror behind the truck, or closing the garage door with the garage dark, its pretty easy to see which brake lights, blinkers etc. are working or not in the dark, they lite up the garage door real well. Id also be interested that Harley part #.
I have also made a stick that I wedge between the front of the seat and the brake pedal.
#23
Like edzakory I used a Standard Motor Parts mechanical switch. Hydraulic switches, these days, are not very reliable. I used a SL128 from NAPA which is a SLS-40 from Standard. (see below) I bent the arm 90° and bolted to the floor so the arm contacts the pedal arm. There used to be one with the arm already bent 90°, not sure if it's still available. I also use one that comes with a long spring attached (think: baseboard doorstop) to the arm for back-up lights (a couple small rectangular fog lamps with bulb shields removed and mounted below/behind rear bumper.) I situated it to contact the 1st/reverse quadrant on the column.
eCatalog
eCatalog
#24
Do you have power disc brakes? The original idea of using the Harley switch was on trucks with original brakes. I have to wonder if the Harley switch is up to the pressures of a PDB system? The whole point of it is, it was designed for a low pressure system. Someone with personal experience should chime in. I'm using a NAPA Echlin switch listed for my truck, been on there 15 years with no problems.
#25
Ron Francis or somebody sells one that has a lighter set point supposedly, and is tolerant of D.O.T. 5 synthetic brake fluid. What kind of brake fluid is installed? I think that's why the Harley switches were popular, they were using synthetic for a while.
The original switch in my slick worked fine for 50 years, it was the only original brake component remaining after overhaul other than the pedal. Then, about a week after that (like clockwork) I had a real brake check/panic stop on the highway. "MOC OK" I guess. Well the brake switch still worked, but after that it was tired or "lazy" and wouldn't come on until a hard brake action. So it got replaced. Much better.
Try to find boxed NOS or NORS, they made a gazillion of those switches. Avoid always el-cheapo electrical or ignition parts.
The original switch in my slick worked fine for 50 years, it was the only original brake component remaining after overhaul other than the pedal. Then, about a week after that (like clockwork) I had a real brake check/panic stop on the highway. "MOC OK" I guess. Well the brake switch still worked, but after that it was tired or "lazy" and wouldn't come on until a hard brake action. So it got replaced. Much better.
Try to find boxed NOS or NORS, they made a gazillion of those switches. Avoid always el-cheapo electrical or ignition parts.
#26
Hi Paul, you're a hero in my book! About the brake light switch, I had the OE style one that was not working well at all. Then I bought the low pressure style one from Mid Fifty. It worked reliably for about 2 years. But one day a cop noticed my brake lights were intermittent and pulled me over . He was a good guy, did not give a ticket, just asked me to fix it. So I went the mechanical switch route . Its one of those you see in various Hot Rod parts catalogs. It is round a has a liitle adjustable arm. I had to make a bracket to bolt it to the frame near the brake pedal arm. I am glad I went that route because it has been working good ever since.
#27
"Ron Francis or somebody sells one that has a lighter set point supposedly, and is tolerant of D.O.T. 5 synthetic brake fluid. What kind of brake fluid is installed? I think that's why the Harley switches were popular, they were using synthetic for a while."
All brake fluid is synthetic, DOT 5 fluid is silicone based, I was taught this in Marine Corps Engineer Equipment Mechanic school.
All DOT3 & DOT4 fluid is synthetic...ie it is man made and does not have a petroleum base. DOT3 & 4 can safely be mixed. HOWEVER DOT5 (or 5.1) brake fluid is silicone based and must NEVER be mixed with DOT3 or 4.Nov 3, 2014
All brake fluid is synthetic, DOT 5 fluid is silicone based, I was taught this in Marine Corps Engineer Equipment Mechanic school.
All DOT3 & DOT4 fluid is synthetic...ie it is man made and does not have a petroleum base. DOT3 & 4 can safely be mixed. HOWEVER DOT5 (or 5.1) brake fluid is silicone based and must NEVER be mixed with DOT3 or 4.Nov 3, 2014
#28
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