1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Brake Lights Won't Come On...

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  #16  
Old 08-24-2017, 09:06 PM
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MidFifty sells a light pressure switch.
 
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Old 08-28-2017, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ghall
Not 100% sure of your wiring diagram, but the 56 here i have intermittent issues with one brake light not operating...left one

have traced it to the turn signal switch under the steering wheel.
I can give it a 'wiggle' and the left light will work.

Now to pull the wheel and investigate... when the temps come down....
FYI,
I did look into that and it did correct it temporarily - somehow!?
Back to not coming on properly - Sad
Paul
 
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Old 08-28-2017, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by mtflat
If you determine it is the brake light switch (most are set too heavy for our old systems).

My solution was buying a switch for a '91 Harley Davidson that uses the 1/8" pipe fitting and same electrical connections. Lighter pressure required and very dependable. More $$ but I figured it was worth it. fwiw
I have installed a new brake light switch but now have discovered that I cant step on the brake pedal then quickly run to the back to see if the lights come on... S.T.U.P.I.D.

You would happen to have a part number available for that Harley Davidson switch..? Does anyone here else agree with this method?

It appears that your idea may actually work. It seems that the harder I press on the brakes the lights come on. I will investigate... Once I recover from this last chemo round...

All is good my friends. Be prepared for the new arrival of Natalia this October!

Paul
 
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Old 08-28-2017, 06:37 PM
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Your funny Paul. I used a mirror behind the truck, or closing the garage door with the garage dark, its pretty easy to see which brake lights, blinkers etc. are working or not in the dark, they lite up the garage door real well. Id also be interested that Harley part #.
 
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Old 08-28-2017, 08:09 PM
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The Harley brake light switch is: 72023-51A
 
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Old 08-28-2017, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by underthebridgejim
Your funny Paul. I used a mirror behind the truck, or closing the garage door with the garage dark, its pretty easy to see which brake lights, blinkers etc. are working or not in the dark, they lite up the garage door real well. Id also be interested that Harley part #.
I do that truck too, but I back my truck in so I use the rear wall. To check brake lights on my F350 I back up to a store or business that has a large window in front.

I have also made a stick that I wedge between the front of the seat and the brake pedal.
 
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Old 08-29-2017, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
The Harley brake light switch is: 72023-51A
Thank you so kindly Ross!
Paul
 
  #23  
Old 08-29-2017, 10:11 AM
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Like edzakory I used a Standard Motor Parts mechanical switch. Hydraulic switches, these days, are not very reliable. I used a SL128 from NAPA which is a SLS-40 from Standard. (see below) I bent the arm 90° and bolted to the floor so the arm contacts the pedal arm. There used to be one with the arm already bent 90°, not sure if it's still available. I also use one that comes with a long spring attached (think: baseboard doorstop) to the arm for back-up lights (a couple small rectangular fog lamps with bulb shields removed and mounted below/behind rear bumper.) I situated it to contact the 1st/reverse quadrant on the column.

eCatalog
 
  #24  
Old 08-29-2017, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by ImSoQuazy
Thank you so kindly Ross!
Paul
Do you have power disc brakes? The original idea of using the Harley switch was on trucks with original brakes. I have to wonder if the Harley switch is up to the pressures of a PDB system? The whole point of it is, it was designed for a low pressure system. Someone with personal experience should chime in. I'm using a NAPA Echlin switch listed for my truck, been on there 15 years with no problems.
 
  #25  
Old 08-29-2017, 10:56 AM
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Ron Francis or somebody sells one that has a lighter set point supposedly, and is tolerant of D.O.T. 5 synthetic brake fluid. What kind of brake fluid is installed? I think that's why the Harley switches were popular, they were using synthetic for a while.

The original switch in my slick worked fine for 50 years, it was the only original brake component remaining after overhaul other than the pedal. Then, about a week after that (like clockwork) I had a real brake check/panic stop on the highway. "MOC OK" I guess. Well the brake switch still worked, but after that it was tired or "lazy" and wouldn't come on until a hard brake action. So it got replaced. Much better.

Try to find boxed NOS or NORS, they made a gazillion of those switches. Avoid always el-cheapo electrical or ignition parts.
 
  #26  
Old 08-29-2017, 12:19 PM
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Hi Paul, you're a hero in my book! About the brake light switch, I had the OE style one that was not working well at all. Then I bought the low pressure style one from Mid Fifty. It worked reliably for about 2 years. But one day a cop noticed my brake lights were intermittent and pulled me over . He was a good guy, did not give a ticket, just asked me to fix it. So I went the mechanical switch route . Its one of those you see in various Hot Rod parts catalogs. It is round a has a liitle adjustable arm. I had to make a bracket to bolt it to the frame near the brake pedal arm. I am glad I went that route because it has been working good ever since.
 
  #27  
Old 08-29-2017, 01:27 PM
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"Ron Francis or somebody sells one that has a lighter set point supposedly, and is tolerant of D.O.T. 5 synthetic brake fluid. What kind of brake fluid is installed? I think that's why the Harley switches were popular, they were using synthetic for a while."
All brake fluid is synthetic, DOT 5 fluid is silicone based, I was taught this in Marine Corps Engineer Equipment Mechanic school.
All DOT3 & DOT4 fluid is synthetic...ie it is man made and does not have a petroleum base. DOT3 & 4 can safely be mixed. HOWEVER DOT5 (or 5.1) brake fluid is silicone based and must NEVER be mixed with DOT3 or 4.Nov 3, 2014
 
  #28  
Old 08-29-2017, 03:28 PM
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Jeeze Louise.

Have fun trying to separate the fly chit from the pepper.

Point being D.O.T. 5 (silicone) will tend to damage the standard issue brake switch whereas the older variants will not, or at least not right away.
 
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