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Driver Power Lock Will Lock but Won't Unlock

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  #1  
Old 08-18-2017, 12:31 PM
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Driver Power Lock Will Lock but Won't Unlock

I have a 2014 F250. Everything was working fine until all of a sudden a few days ago I noticed that the driver door will not unlock using the keypad, fob, or switch in the vehicle. It will lock using any of those three methods.

A quick google search lead me to believe that maybe the actuator went bad/would only work in one direction. I ordered a new one and replaced it, however, the problem still persists.

I have noticed that occasionally (like 1/100 times) it will work. All of the other locks work fine.

The only electrical work that that has been done was when I added offroad lights and bed lights about two years ago and ran both to the aux switches. I don't think either of those would cause this issue, but who knows.

Anybody else have this issue or have any idea what the problem could be?
 
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Old 08-18-2017, 02:39 PM
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I am wondering if you have a bad DRIVER's BCM Door Lock Unlock relay which is NOT serviceable. The lock/unlock pulse uses the same wire going from the BCM to the door lock solenoid. The Blue with Green stripe wire.

If the door locks, it would in my simple mind, say this wire is good.

That would leave the DRIVER's door lock unlock relay. This relay locks all the doors but only unlocks the driver's door. It sounds like you have isolated the problem to the DRIVER's BCM lock unlock relay is bad or going bad since the driver door switch nor the fob, nor door key pad will not unlock the door.

The BCM requires programming if replaced. You can possibly do it with FORScan. You would need to download the BCM parameters in the BCM to a file so you can reload the NEW BCM with the configuration or from your truck's as build configuration file.

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/AsBuilt
 
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Old 08-21-2017, 11:01 AM
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Larry,

Thanks for the reply. I went to the dealer to talk to them about this and ended up coming home with a new 2017 F350 Lariat DRW. LOL! I asked them about it and when we started talking they offered me $1k less for my trade than what I paid 3 years ago and gave me a good deal on the new truck. Couldn't pass it up.
 
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Old 08-21-2017, 11:32 AM
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Great going.......lol.....hope you like the new truck....
 
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Old 11-25-2017, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Just Strokin
I am wondering if you have a bad DRIVER's BCM Door Lock Unlock relay which is NOT serviceable. The lock/unlock pulse uses the same wire going from the BCM to the door lock solenoid. The Blue with Green stripe wire.

If the door locks, it would in my simple mind, say this wire is good.

That would leave the DRIVER's door lock unlock relay. This relay locks all the doors but only unlocks the driver's door. It sounds like you have isolated the problem to the DRIVER's BCM lock unlock relay is bad or going bad since the driver door switch nor the fob, nor door key pad will not unlock the door.

The BCM requires programming if replaced. You can possibly do it with FORScan. You would need to download the BCM parameters in the BCM to a file so you can reload the NEW BCM with the configuration or from your truck's as build configuration file.

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/AsBuilt
Well, I'm bringing this one back to life. My 2012 is exhibiting the exact same issue with the driver front door. I have even pulled back the harness boot between the door and the body to see if there is any broken wiring and played with pretty much every inch of the harness while unlocking to see if any position is favorable over another to indicate a broken wire.

Where would this BCM/Relay be located and is there a test procedure?
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 09:33 AM
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Somebody chime in and correct me if I am wrong...There is no relay for the power door locks. If I remember correctly, they are controlled by the security module behind the dash and it's not a cheap part. I did a lot of research when I had my issue a few months ago and came to the conclusion I was going to have to take it in to get fixed. Just so happened I went in and walked out with a new 2017 F350 DRW so I never did find out exactly how to fix it.

Again, this is what I gathered from searching here and other sites, but I cannot confirm it's 100% correct. Good luck getting it fixed. Even though it's not "critical" I know how irritating it is when the power locks don't work.
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 01:09 PM
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Maybe just a worn out button on the fob?
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 01:21 PM
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Captain,

I originally wanted to buy a 17 but couldn't justify the payments; they're outrageous. Beautiful trucks though! Congrats on the easy fix.

Originally Posted by ligito
Maybe just a worn out button on the fob?
Negative. Same results from keypad on door, both door switches, factory fob, and aftermarket fob.
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by dew the thunder
Captain,

I originally wanted to buy a 17 but couldn't justify the payments; they're outrageous. Beautiful trucks though! Congrats on the easy fix.Negative. Same results from keypad on door, both door switches, factory fob, and aftermarket fob.
Yeah nothing worked on mine either. Sounds like the exact same issue. Luckily I got a sweet deal on my 14 F250 and when I asked what they would give me for it they offered about 1k less than I paid for it new. Wasn't planning on it, but I couldn't pass that up when combined with the rebates I got on the new one.
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 02:25 PM
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Did you change out your actuator? If you had to remove the outside latch, make sure you have enough stroke in it to pull the release. I had to do that when I replaced mine. It is the clip going into the top from the out side. Unsnap it and adjust it to where it will fully open the latch.
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Captain 'Murica
Somebody chime in and correct me if I am wrong...There is no relay for the power door locks. If I remember correctly, they are controlled by the security module behind the dash and it's not a cheap part. I did a lot of research when I had my issue a few months ago and came to the conclusion I was going to have to take it in to get fixed. Just so happened I went in and walked out with a new 2017 F350 DRW so I never did find out exactly how to fix it.

Again, this is what I gathered from searching here and other sites, but I cannot confirm it's 100% correct. Good luck getting it fixed. Even though it's not "critical" I know how irritating it is when the power locks don't work.
The locks are controlled by relays in the BCM/Fuse box in the passenger kick panel. They are NOT controlled by any security module. See attached schematics.




 
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Old 12-03-2017, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by mapitts66
Did you change out your actuator? If you had to remove the outside latch, make sure you have enough stroke in it to pull the release. I had to do that when I replaced mine. It is the clip going into the top from the out side. Unsnap it and adjust it to where it will fully open the latch.
Actuators either lock and unlock OR not work at all. They do not lock but not unlock or vice versa. If they lock or unlock with the door switch but not do both, then usually the switch is bad/dirty. This has been a common problem with Fords over the years.

If the keypad AND fob AND door lock switch do NOT lock AND unlock the door, you have a voltage issue such as a blown fuse or a bad realy in the BCM. See above schematics.
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Just Strokin
Actuators either lock and unlock OR not work at all. They do not lock but not unlock or vice versa. If they lock or unlock with the door switch but not do both, then usually the switch is bad/dirty. This has been a common problem with Fords over the years.

If the keypad AND fob AND door lock switch do NOT lock AND unlock the door, you have a voltage issue such as a blown fuse or a bad realy in the BCM. See above schematics.
EDIT - I see now that this says non-serviceable. Lol

I have been dying for you to see this post again. It sounded like you knew exactly what was going on. Thanks for the diagrams! Before I go tearing into this thing, are the relays serviceable or is a BCM replacement required?
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by dew the thunder
EDIT - I see now that this says non-serviceable. Lol

I have been dying for you to see this post again. It sounded like you knew exactly what was going on. Thanks for the diagrams! Before I go tearing into this thing, are the relays serviceable or is a BCM replacement required?
I have never seen the back side of the BCM. I suspect the relays are soldered onto the circuit board. You might be able to find a replacement but be forewarned, the BCM is programmable, so you run a risk of more damage than just a bad relay. You will need to use FORScan to save your "As Built" BCM data in case you blow the unit's memory chips. I would consider finding a BCM from a Pick n Pull place or maybe off eBay. You can also download your truck's AB data at this link from Ford.

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/AsBuilt

 
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Old 12-03-2017, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Just Strokin
I have never seen the back side of the BCM. I suspect the relays are soldered onto the circuit board. You might be able to find a replacement but be forewarned, the BCM is programmable, so you run a risk of more damage than just a bad relay. You will need to use FORScan to save your "As Built" BCM data in case you blow the unit's memory chips. I would consider finding a BCM from a Pick n Pull place or maybe off eBay. You can also download your truck's AB data at this link from Ford.

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/AsBuilt

My theory is there is leftover voltage in the system, which is why some people's issue my be solved as simple as pulling and replacing fuses. I have not had a single issue since installing the electronic tailgate lock actuator, which is now tied into the driver's door lock wiring. It's only been about 24 hours but I did a great deal of running around today and so far no issues.

I most certainly will not be messing around with soldering on any circuit boards, as my hands are too shaky for that nonsense. But thank you for posting the diagrams and giving your insight; it is invaluable. Reps sent, good sir!
 


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