So when i was on my way back from work i was at a light, when it turned green i tired to push the clutch in and it went straight to the floor and didnt come back up. Didnt let me go into gear, so i grinded first and then slammed it into second and got off the road. When i got into the parking lot, nothing was out of place so i over adjusted the tensioner, you know the pointy thing that presses on the fork.. Well long story short the clutch was really hard and had a short amount of useable pedal travel ( travel that actually engages the clutch) but i got it back home. Need some advice..

Keegan

 

Still got a clutch return spring and bracket??

 

Yes, everything is there, i took the inspection pan off and looked at the fork and it seemed to work but there was play side to side.

 

Were you able to see the backside of the pressure plate?

 

Yes, I dont remember anything out of the ordinary although it was a 98 degree day and i was lying on pavement...

 

If everything else checks out. Then the only thing left is the pressure plate. Worn out fingers, broken springs and I doubt very much if the pressure plate bolts worked out or broken.

 

The following is a common problem on these trucks.

The clutch pedal release rod attaches to the bellcrank under the dash, then routes thru the toe board where it attaches to the clutch equalizer (Z) bar.

This rod has 90 degree ends with a nylon bushing, flat washer and cotter pin on each.

The bushings crack apart/disintegrate, the 90 degree ends begin to crack, eventually snap off.

When this occurs, the clutch pedal drops to the floor, lays there like a drunken sailor.

C8TZ-7521-D .. Clutch Pedal Release Rod - 17 5/8" long / Reproduced

1968/76 F100/350; 1977 F100/350 before serial number O80,001.
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2) C0AZ-7526-A .. Clutch Pedal Release Rod Nylon Bushing / Reproduced

Misc. 1960/80 Ford/Merc Passenger Cars; 1961/77 F100/750; 1966/77 Bronco; 1978 F100/750 & Bronco before serial number BA0,001.

Note: The clutch equalizer (Z) bar has two pivots, rides on nylon bushings (C1AA-7543-A), one on each pivot.

The bushings crack apart/disintigrate, the round shafts on the pivots become elongated, the equalizer bar wiggles around.

The bushings are available from Ford and all the repro parts sellers.

 

It's a little easier on the vehicle if you start it in gear, then match the revs and feel your way between gears. Technically if you get good enough at matching engine RPMs and transmission gear ratios, you barely need a clutch at all (but it sure is easier on the starter!)

 

http://m.autozone.com/drivetrain/clutch-linkage-bushing/help-clutch-linkage-bushing/426042_0_0?location=
Would these work, I know they are not the best bushings out there.

 

I haven't a clue, because I cannot see it, but...

You will also need the rod, since one or both ends have snapped off, causing the pedal to lay prostrate on terra firma.

There are two Ford truck repro parts sellers near jah-ja, Carpenter in Concord NC and NPD in Charlotte NC...both should have the parts.

C0AZ-7526-A .. Clutch Release Rod Nylon Bushing = 7/16" O.D. x 3/8" I.D. with 3/4" flange diameter. Bushing is split and is 1 13/16" long.

 

The rod is not bent but as you can see both bushings are totally worn away. I didn't think that two bushings would render the clutch useless without a warning..