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  #301  
Old 03-13-2019, 03:59 PM
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Checking TDC & rotor position is not dependent on just to check the balancer.

I'd want to know I could rely on the pointer.

I'd want to know where the rotor is pointing in relation to the #1 terminal.

No idea bout the timing light. Don't see why it wouldn't be fine set to 0.
 
  #302  
Old 03-13-2019, 06:36 PM
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If the outer ring on the damper slipped, it should not affect engine balance. The balance weight is on the inner hub of the harmonic damper.
 
  #303  
Old 03-13-2019, 07:36 PM
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I've had a few outer rings spin on me in the past. So now I always check them. And I use a paint marker to mark the timing mark and I run it down the front into the center hub. That makes it easy to tell if it spins in the future too. If you check it in the future and the marks no longer line up, then it spun.
 
  #304  
Old 03-13-2019, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by fordman75 View Post
I've had a few outer rings spin on me in the past. So now I always check them. And I use a paint marker to mark the timing mark and I run it down the front into the center hub. That makes it easy to tell if it spins in the future too. If you check it in the future and the marks no longer line up, then it spun.
thank you that is a good idea
 
  #305  
Old 03-14-2019, 01:44 PM
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Some pic of problem

#1 marked too have you guys tell me wear I’m screwing this up in these 2 pic both taken with out moving the crank


 
  #306  
Old 03-14-2019, 01:52 PM
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Dark red is TDC, lite red is 10’, white is 20’ Am I at TDC Pic taken at the same time engine as previous post It won’t run unless I give 20’ so is what I have correct
so I’m about 8’ btdc and the rotor is just past #1? Is that correct? I’ll check the piston after lunch


 
  #307  
Old 03-14-2019, 02:31 PM
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Ok a little correction the first white is about 18’ the second white is about 20’+
 
  #308  
Old 03-14-2019, 03:26 PM
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I put the wrench on the balancer bolt and turned just until I felt the piston move
Started down I just felt it the piston that is



 
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Old 03-14-2019, 03:28 PM
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The rotor moved on past #1


 
  #310  
Old 03-14-2019, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Scndsin View Post
I keep forgetting you've got an 89

Rock auto has 2 listings for an 89 E-150, 5.0 ICM

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...111666&jsn=479

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=480&jsn=480

$50.99 & (WTF$$$) $124.79

I'd put a Mototrcraft part on it at all costs.
ok I have tried 3 different TFI 2are new the third was working when last in the engine.
I looked for a idle set screw and found a stub the head is gone can’t be that easy stump has grip marks.
 
  #311  
Old 03-14-2019, 08:17 PM
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Don't mess with the throttle blade screw. It can't end well at this stage.

I'm going to look at 2 5.0s tomorrow & get back to you, but that looks correct for just a bit before #1 if the timing mark goes with the rotor shot.
 
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Old 03-14-2019, 08:25 PM
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I’ll check all my electric connections tomorrow
 
  #313  
Old 03-15-2019, 04:22 PM
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I’m stepping back a little from this engine I checked the electrical connections they look good so I cked IAC the resistance according to my cheap HF is 26 ohms should be 6-13 plug it in start the engine and pull it back off the engine dies ?
Ok so what have I done here to the engine heads, rockers, cam all add air is the engine/pcm trying to tell me something.
 
  #314  
Old 03-15-2019, 06:59 PM
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OK can we check-list a bit here?

How is the engine running now? Is the timing still showing 30* with the spout out?

What does it idle at when it gets to operating temp?

Does it start cold & idle high for a minuet or so & drop to 750-650?

Do you have access to a vacuum gauge? (A Mity-vac will do in a pinch)

Do you know how to check codes? (did your conversion get a functioning check engine light?)

Just need to review some things to chart a course with.
 
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Old 03-15-2019, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Scndsin View Post
OK can we check-list a bit here?

How is the engine running now? Is the timing still showing 30* with the spout out?

What does it idle at when it gets to operating temp?

Does it start cold & idle high for a minuet or so & drop to 750-650?

Do you have access to a vacuum gauge? (A Mity-vac will do in a pinch)

Do you know how to check codes? (did your conversion get a functioning check engine light?)

Just need to review some things to chart a course with.
yes I need help Dave

how is the engine running now? the engine runs good base timing not 30* but 25* or so advanced spout out and run a little rough


what is the idle like at temp ? it runs same(good) maybe needs a little advance rpms are a guess 650 my tach is small dial

starting cold? fast idle 750-800 rpm cuts back after a minute but faster than when at operating temp

I do not have a vac gauge will look to some friends ( I barrowed a friends timing light and it shows the same timings as my HF cheapo)

codes I don't believe I have one after wire delete and Dakota digital offers but I'm not using

reviewing? yes same here. The after market manual I have has a paragraph in which it says to drive the truck for 10 minutes so as the pcm can recalibrate I guess reboot after battery disconnected for some time I have not done this I did the Comp Cams 10-10-10 break in and have driven up my street but that is it.

any body else ideas too through in go for it
 

Last edited by schoo; 03-16-2019 at 09:09 AM. Reason: More accurate info

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