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  #286  
Old 03-12-2019, 10:39 PM
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That is peculiar; the point of removing the spout plug is to dissadis the electronic spark advance. In my experience, upon removing the spout and setting base timing, the timing does not advance or change upon revving, the statement that your timing jumps with the spout unplugged is troublesome, it shouldn't advance whatsoever with the spout removed. Pardon the question, but you are removing the small jumper off the ignition control module when setting base timing correct?
 
  #287  
Old 03-12-2019, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by schoo View Post

it will not idle at 10 it starts to idle at about 22 that is with the spout removed it smooths out at 25.
I drove(with spout in) it up the street and it had low power no surge or bucking when checking with spout out it does advance
Your harmonic balancer's outer ring may have slipped. Get the #1 spark plug at TDC on the compression stroke and see where the timing marks are at in relation to the timing pointer.
 
  #288  
Old 03-12-2019, 11:55 PM
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Yes always pull bat power before disconnecting ECU from it's main harness connector.

Not necessary for pulling SPOUT.

Was going to ask if you'd ever opened up ECU case & inspected for leaking capacitors.

If you can't get a good 10* initial timing, you might want to re-stab distributor.

You also might be 180* out as well. I THINK it's possible for it to run, but run like crap at 180* out.
 
  #289  
Old 03-13-2019, 05:49 AM
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Thank you guys I do appreciate the comments I was wondering about balancer.
 
  #290  
Old 03-13-2019, 06:16 AM
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What if I have the wrong TFI
 
  #291  
Old 03-13-2019, 06:32 AM
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Is there a difference between the aod and eaod tfi
 
  #292  
Old 03-13-2019, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by schoo View Post
What if I have the wrong TFI

You should have a gray (not black) ICM, the ignition control module on the side of the distributor.

But even so if it was black, it shouldn't run as bad as you describe.

TFI is just the style of ignition control & is not dependent on the transmission.
 
  #293  
Old 03-13-2019, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Scndsin View Post
Yes always pull bat power before disconnecting ECU from it's main harness connector.

Not necessary for pulling SPOUT.

Was going to ask if you'd ever opened up ECU case & inspected for leaking capacitors.

If you can't get a good 10* initial timing, you might want to re-stab distributor.


You also might be 180* out as well. I THINK it's possible for it to run, but run like crap at 180* out.
It won't run at all 180* off.
 
  #294  
Old 03-13-2019, 07:05 AM
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It runs ok no backfire
 
  #295  
Old 03-13-2019, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Scndsin View Post
You should have a gray (not black) ICM, the ignition control module on the side of the distributor.

But even so if it was black, it shouldn't run as bad as you describe.

TFI is just the style of ignition control & is not dependent on the transmission.
I got 2 with the distributor 1 marked for auto trans the other for manual trans
 
  #296  
Old 03-13-2019, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Glaser67 View Post
That is peculiar; the point of removing the spout plug is to dissadis the electronic spark advance. In my experience, upon removing the spout and setting base timing, the timing does not advance or change upon revving, the statement that your timing jumps with the spout unplugged is troublesome, it shouldn't advance whatsoever with the spout removed. Pardon the question, but you are removing the small jumper off the ignition control module when setting base timing correct?
I have been chasing this so many times that I may have confused myself so the need to recheck when what happened with spout removed
 
  #297  
Old 03-13-2019, 12:00 PM
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Sometimes I wish I knew what I was doing anyway I replaced the TFI with the one marked for manual trans, checked the timing at idle itís 30í advance shut off put the spout back in and test drive it lots of power very quick too rpms so?? Maybe get another timing light
 
  #298  
Old 03-13-2019, 02:34 PM
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Ummmm. 30 degrees of base timing would melt your brand new pistons under strong acceleration with these things weak assed fuel systems.

If you didn't hear some severe spark knock, something is very screwy.

I strongly recommend pulling plug #1 and rotating the engine slowly with a breaker bar & something like 8 inches of coat hanger held on the top of the piston till you can get for sure top-dead-center & look at your timing marks & where the rotor points in the bottom of the cap.
 
  #299  
Old 03-13-2019, 02:44 PM
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I keep forgetting you've got an 89

Rock auto has 2 listings for an 89 E-150, 5.0 ICM

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...111666&jsn=479

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=480&jsn=480

$50.99 & (WTF$$$) $124.79

I'd put a Mototrcraft part on it at all costs.
 
  #300  
Old 03-13-2019, 03:21 PM
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I have the one on my old distributor I all ready looked at I’ll have too make up a tool to get it off. I don’t hear any ping and when I first set up tdc I did ck the piston with a wire I just have a hard time believing the balancer has moved no vibration.
The distrbutor manufacturer said not to use a timing light with a advance dial I don’t get that? I have old gas in it so should I get 5 gal of 93 octane the other engines I had I just turned up the advance until it pinged then backed it off some but with a computer I don’t want to do that
 

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