Hi All, my 06 F350 PSD 6SD Manual has been in a accident and my be totaled, waiting for insurance, I have found a 08 6.4 PSD with a 6 Sp Manual with 100,000 miles, Im not up to speed on the newer PSD's. Are the 6.4's any good. Is there a thread that shows common know issues? Thanks

 

Page down but look at the top of it for tsb's and write ups in this forum.

I'm coming out of a E99 so I feel spoiled eating an Ice cream in it.

Mechanically speaking, they are way over-engineered by the feds, but if your in a non emissions state and have the wherewithal, delete the thing completely and do your heavy maint svc in accordance with your owners manual and just prey that the previous owner didn't neglect.

Look for Radiator leaks. Not a deal breaker, easy fix, but just beware.

Also see if you can pull a report. (worth gold)

Denny Good luck on your choice.

 

BTW, I saw your sig after I replied. Not your first rodeo.

I was scared to jump into a 6.4. But, I can spin wrenches and do everything including a tear down with tutoring.

I've had our SC truck with no rust, perfect nose to tail cc 08 srw 350 xlt for a year and had to replace the hoses and radiator. Other than that, just went on a 300 mile round with the 5'r in tow and was comfortable, confident, and that thing outpulls grades like my 7,3 won't. (and it ain't a girl truck)

Quiet, Bazzzoom strong and mechanically a marvel,

Denny

 

My 6.4 is way stronger than my 6.0 was. But, the DPF was complete junk. Of course, ymmv.

 

I add fuel to mine and drive it with no concern.

 

I keep this handy for just this type of question

what you have to watch out for...are the trade in's that are sitting on the lots with these problems. my truck had bent push rods, worn rockers, questionable fuel pump, sand and metal in the cooling system, clogging dpf (due to the rockers). It ran fin when I test drove it, but soon after the purchase...the gremlins popped up.

proceed with caution. mine was traded in right after the warranty expired which was suspicious, but oasis shown nothing.

a. cavitation of the coolant pump will cause coolant to enter crank case. aside from monitoriing oil level, you can add a coolant pressure guage...if the coolant pressure gauge drops quickly after turning off the engine...you have a leak from cavitation. use the ford coolant additive

b. orings on the cooling system lines. The lines will pop off and the coolant temp guage is no help in letting you know you just lost 3 gallons of coolant becuase it will show normal temp readings...until you head gaskets blow. coolant pressure gauge is needed.

c. contamination of coolant system with oil or contamination of oil system with coolant or both. cuased by the wonderful oil cooler which instead of using air to cool the oil, uses coolant. this results in eventual corrosion which allows oil/coolant exchange. install a air based oil cooler and disable the oil/coolant exchange unit.

d. the coolant/oil exchange unit will clog up and not cool your oil. install a coolant filter.

e. cracks under the injectors. this is caused by oil over levels cuased either by coolant problems or leaking fuel problems. monitor the oil levels vey frequently.

f. if you removed the DPF, what happended to the #3 temp sensor...in the 08 years a under performing one was used and once it fails...it will put the engine into wrench mode...you will be stuck on the side of the road. if you still have those sensors....replace the 08 ones with the newer design and use anti-sieze compound.

g. water contaimination will damage the pizo injectors. draing the seperator frequently, use a water absorbtion agent (which will now create a new problem item h) , install a high end fuel filter such as AIR DOG.

h. damage to the lift pump under the chasis and/or damage to the main high presure fuel pump. pump damage can occur if the pump runs dry (gelling) (clogged filters) (poor lube value of fuel). anti gel additive during cold months, if you use a water absorbition agent that just converts the water to vasoline which will clogg your filters so carry and extra filter set and the tools to change it with you, use a fuel lube such as opti lube or run B5 or greater. also, dont turn the key to start right away. put the key into the display on position and wait 5 seconds so that the fuel pumps pressurize the HPFP which will help prevent dry starts.

i. problems starting after filter changes. use only motorcraft filters.

j. lifter tip wear, broken rockers, bent push rods, etc. using the wrong weight oil for the given temps will prevent your valve train from getting lubed during startup and they wont get lubed until the oil is at operating temps. if you are in a cold climate, run 5W40 during the cold months. folks that use 15W40 during the winter are mistaken that the block heaters will help oil flow since the block heaters only warm the coolant and not the oil pan two feet below.

k. spun crank bearings. caused by oil issues. heavy towing with 5W40, oil that has been diluted with fuel (extended drain kings) , not allowing 5W40 to warm up to their thicker viscosity. weather permiting you can use thicker oils if you tow alot.

l. auto locking hubs that dont auto lock. this cant be fixed becuase the problem is air leaks in the hub via no related bolts for syspension componets, you can unbolt your vacume line off the hub and pout 4 oz of oil in it....if it leaks from the bottom you have an air leak which can only be fixed by replacing the hub.

j. truck hops from 4th to 6th and shudders. yeah, we have 6 speeds by the computer only used 5 of the gears. 5th is skipped from 4th and you get put into 6th. the only thing that helps and btw claimed to be the only tranny additive ok'd by OEM's is red lubguard. not green, not black, and I will stay away from the silver becuase I dont believe in universal anything.

k. transmission problems early. so there is a lot of confusion about using SP, then dont use SP use LV, then we can sell SP now...use SP, etc. SP is thicker than LV and I dont care what anyone says, I'm going to use SP until I cant get it anymore.

l. gem modules going bad. becareful about presure washing your truck and getting the electical system wet. there are these things called gem modules that fail and often have to be sent in for rebuild becuase no one sells them.

m. rust, rust, rust.....take your pick...fluid film, used motot oil, salt away, etc.

n. rings sticking, push rods being bent, etc. carbon build up due to just being a grocery store truck. most folks who own truck used them to go to homedepot 15minutes away. not enough operating time on the engine to prevent carbon build up, sticking rings , bent push rods due to valves hitting carbon deposits. run the truck on long trips often.

o. lifter disintegration. the lifters in the engine are a pint of failure. partly due to extended drain intervals. keep you oil fresh and use an oil additive like archoil.

p. holes in pistions cuased by injectors stuck open. usally associated with injectors stuck due to metal particle contamination in which the netal particles originate from the high pressure fuel pump that has failed (run dry, wear, water contamination, etc) there is no filter between the HPFP and the injector rail. get an exhaust temp monitoring system andn if you see high exhuast temps and thick clouds of smoke....you probally have an injector stuck open.

q. bent piston rods . hydo locking due to stuck injectors, exhuast vlaves that dont open due to valve train problems, or excessive carbon build up with cause bent psiton rods. remedies discussed above.

 

Once again...I can feel the saddest kind of oatmeal begin to fill my pants. I always carry an extra pair of underwear for when fritz has to bust this ^^^ out.

fluidp...Good luck with the truck. Take care of it and it should take care of you. This forum is a great place to ask questions and research. I know it's helped me. There is also a decent level of response to inquiries on this site...which I can't say about others.

 

do not want you to think Im just a rain maker.....

Im presently trying out Evan's waterless coolant . in theory , since it does not boil, vaporize, cause corrosion, bubble, and operates at 0 PSI, it should help prevent water pump capitation, hoses from poping off, egr corrosion problems, coolant/oil exchange coolant corrosion problems, head and cylinder cracks due to boil over/vaporization/bubbles, radiator leaks, etc.

there's no water in it at all, so there is no oxygen to misbehave.


its not cheap, but if I can "piece of mind" 4 or 5 items on the scare list , its well worth it to me.

 

fritz...I know you're not a rain maker man. I joke when I reference your posts like that...For the record.

That Evan's coolant sounds interesting indeed. Let us know how it acts. Like you said, in theory, it should be a great thing and potentially eliminate some of the issues that can arise by running standard coolants.

 

speakerfritz posted all that he's done, but that's not exactly normal or expected.

 

Sure I know that...just wanted to add that there are mitigation options. Coolant filters, fuel pumps, oil bypass, fuel additives, coolant products like Evan's, etc.

in going to start doing normal stuff now like upgrade shocks.