At first i thought it was the starter that died on me since all the solenoid is new, battery, and battery cables. My 83 ford bronco was firing up really nice with new accel coil, spark plugs, and wires. But last two weeks was starting a little weaker. then when running errands cutting it on and off a few times in an hour and a half it would even make a noise when i turned the key. the lights came on with out diming. connections were good on the battery and solenoid. so i figured it was the 30 something year old starter. i got it jump started and drove back home and then put in a starter the next day or so. still nothing. i can get it to turn over and crank bridging the solenoid. but still nothing from the key. and i noticed the cigarette lighter went out as well. I also pulled the wires from the ignition switch cut them then tried to hot wire them and still nothing so i dont think its the key switch. Is this just a blown fuse or what. where should i start looking. i noticed last night a click behind the dash, when i would turn the key. didnt have enough time or light to investigate. Anyone have any ideas. and i did replace the solenoid aswell

 

Maybe try another ground wire between the block and body and frame.

 

Make sure have a good ground between all 3, battery frame and engine. It takes 60 seconds to pull all the fuses and look for a blown one. Also I have had an ignition module that caused my key to stop working in the "start" position.

 

I was thinking the ignition module too. Have it tested (NAPA does this) and make sure they run several tests. Mine showed good on two tests and fail on one test...intermittent failure just like it was doing when running.

 

Is this the coil that you are using?

ACCEL OE Replacement Ford Dura-Spark Racing Coils 140207

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/acc-140207

 

You should buy another ignition module and try it, even if its not the problem its a very good idea to carry a spare. I do and many other people on the forum recommend it as well. They eventual die and need to be replaced. If you can't find a motorcraft module look around here and see what other brands make good modules. Just my recommendation. Keep up updated.
​​​​​​

 

I read the original post in a rush and missed the fact he bought a new coil. Can an aftermarket coil fry the module or anything?

 

Yes this is a common problem when swapping in a Hot Coil.
The duraspark ignition system needs the correct OEM parts to work reliability.

Jim

 

Ok guys tell me how replacing the coil and/or the module will help when the motor will not crank/turn over with the key?

I don't know how the OP jumped the solenoid to get it to crank over but he/she should try putting power to the small lug with the "S" and see if it cranks, if it does then the starter/cables are good.
If not then that new solenoid or a cable is bad and just because it is new does not mean good.

So lets say it does crank when 12v is put to the "S" lug then we know power is not coming thru that wire from the key.
Could it be a bad NSS (auto) or clutch safety switch gone bad? Jump them out to test.

Now the OP also said the lighter stopped working is it related?
Are there other things not working or better yet not getting power?
There should be 2 or 3 fuse links at the solenoid on the same big lug as the + batt. cable.
First make sure they are making a good connection, may want to remove and take some sand paper to the eye let to make sure it is clean.

Also test them to make sure they did not burn out.
Sometimes you can try and make an arc with the wire and if it bends sharply it is burnt out.
Some say you can pull on it and if it stretches it is bad.
I like to use a test light that goes they the insulation, check it where it connects to the main wiring harness. No light = burnt link.

So till we get a little feed back from the OP person we will not know when he fighting with.
Dave ----

 

The ignition switch was loose, i had push it up on the column and tighten the screws. I found it by accident when trying to run a new wire from it to the relay. Spent 4 days for 2 hours after work searching the engine compartment for a bad wire and testing my ignition system. then 2 days behind the dash trying to find the right wires. Thanks for the feed back and sorry for the waste of time. I didnt check the right wires for the ignition switch at first i guess.

 

It's ok and not a waste of time you found the issue and fixed it.
You also found just moving something in an adjusting slot and tighten it down is not the way to go.


And the big one.......you came back and told us what it was and this can help others when they may have a no crank / turn over motor.
Dave ----

 

I replaced the ground wire going from the firewall to the bolt on the intake manifold at the rear of the engine. *wrong thread* disregard

 

True, I'm having the same issue and this thread helped, replaced all the same parts, no cranks. Gonna recheck my ignition, thanks

 

if/when i have issues with the column mounted switch, i take a closer look to see if they need to be replaced. its not uncommon for those switches to loosen up and cr@p out over time.
glad you got it sorted. keep an eye on that switch. if the issue happens again, at least you know where to start, again.