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... anyway the (new) ignition coil was apparently defective. i will try bring it back to the parts store and get a free replacement. i will find out tomorrow...
... anyway the (new) ignition coil was apparently defective. i will try bring it back to the parts store and get a free replacement. i will find out tomorrow...
Overdue update: i got the free replacement coil (although the parts store required me to scramble a bit for the receipt) and got it installed. so far so good...
I say buy a Pertronix I or II and their coil. No points to replace. No condenser to go bad. And no resistance wire needed. Easy peasy.
I agree with JEFFFAFA. I installed the Pertronix II and their Flamethrower II coil on my '72 F100 360. It works like a charm. It can be used with or without the pink resistance wire.
I used the Pertronix II ignition and Flamethrower II coil in my '72 F100. It works fine in mine even with the "Pink" wire still intact. According to Pertronix Tech Support (909-547-9058) the ignition will work with the "Pink" wire or straight 12V.
I sifted through the alternatives a bit more and settled on pertronix ignitor ii (#45111) and pertronix flame thrower ii (#91281) (black color option).
both of these parts are specific to a 1968 ford f-250 truck v-8 to a greater or lesser degree (or so i was told at the local parts shop counter). the ignition is obvious, and the coil insulation is epoxy, not oil, and so presumably resists the relatively high vibration that the fe-360 (and close relatives) put out. voltage of the coil on the coil box: 45000 volts. ohmage printed on the coil box: 0.6 ohms (less than i anticipated, but probably not significant).
i also got a keychain-type spark plug gap measurement tool.
cost
ignition $ 48
coil $118
sp gap tool $ 1.02
ca/local tax $ 16.45
-----------------
total $182.47
if anyone sees anything terribly wrong, please feel free to comment or PM. I will be out of town for a while and will not have time to work on it until i return, a few days from now.
I installed the same Pertronix parts you have pictured 2 year ago. Used the black coil also so it looks stock. Works great, no tune ups to do again other than change plugs.
Did you keep or remove the pink resistor wire on the back of the ignition switch? I just added a jumper wire across the pink wire so I could change it back if I had to.
I engineered the same system mathew talks about with a used TFI coil and a Duraspark II distributor. Just my preference at the time but I wired it in with a GM 4 pin module on a heat sink over on the inner fender. I ran that set up for years and never had an issue, and it worked great. I did buy a new module when I installed it though.
Several of us have shared the simple wiring diagram or let me know and I'll find it and post it up again.
Did you keep or remove the pink resistor wire on the back of the ignition switch?
Neither. At some point in time it came back from a shop with the pink resistor wire replaced by a normal copper wire. I found out inadvertently much too late to complain or even be able to prove who did it. I just moved on, using where I was as a starting point.
Originally Posted by steve340
I just added a jumper wire across the pink wire so I could change it back if I had to.
That seems to me like a good idea, and if I had been starting from scratch I would have done that. I could still toss in a discrete resistor with the parallel circuit bypass mounted on the firewall.
I still have not driven the truck much because other real world issues have taken priority. This episode however left me with a bit of trepidation concerning Pertronix II coil reliability or lack thereof. Many if not most of my modifications are motivated by increasing reliability. If there is a next time, I might be tempted to go with a Ford TFI coil in the hope that it is less susceptible to failure.
Although it still has some issues, I am hoping that this truck is reaching stability in terms of modifications that I had wanted to perform, so that I can start shifting my attention back to my early broncos.
Also the shop manual has always been in-plan, and so I need to get that.
ok well im sorry,, but a complete ready to run HEI distrib- with cap and coil and everythign needed - is only 70 bucks brand new and dont need any more parts or have to make any wiring mods/changes/ either all except for one larger guage IGN feed full 12 volts for the coil controleld by igntion run/off ... and is sooo much wess cost,,,, about three times less costs than if you go and collect a DSII or TIF coil and a distrib, or parts to convert to electronic ignition in the old points distrib, and a module and then figure out the wiring, and etc,,
i got a totally complete HEI distrib for the '73 390 FE truck out here, way simple easy and dirt cheap. i was oringlaly gona go and collect all the DS II parts to convert over to, until i found out all the parts were gonna be almost 200 bucks, VS 70 for an HEI ready to run igintion system distrib, and one wire connect easy as cake. so..... i did swap a stock OEM GM module in place of the cheap chinese-made mobile tronics module that was in it, and also i swapped a GM OEM cap and coil on it as well. because i have alot of chevy GM parts like this stashed around here.
Originally Posted by matthewq4b
I can't speak to the MSD Blaster TFI Coil but the Ford TFI Coil has no ballast resistor in the system. The Ford TFI coils are these ones (below). Easily scrounged off any late 80's SBF V8 then you get the mounting bracket and connector.
I can not see why the petronix could not be used as they are just switching the ground to the coil you can even use the TFI coils with points. Personally I do not know why any one would stick with the stock type bar core coil unless it was for appearance reasons. The TFI's are all position mounting and no ballast resistor required. I have used them successfully on many Duraspark installs and it beats the GM HEI system any day of the week and twice on Sundays.
Not to offend any one but I laugh at people that spend big dollars on GM HEI style distributors for Ford engines when the same and better can be done with factory Ford parts.
12-22-2017, 02:06 AM
