Hey guys, here is what I have. My work beater, 95 ranger splash 4x4 x cab 4.0 auto was getting to the point my 6.2 f150 would out mpg it.

I picked up a 4.2 from a 06 f150 that someone decided checking oil was not needed. #3 rod was junk. also #3 cam bearing was seized to the cam. Block and everything went to the machine shop to be cleaned and inspected, he welded the crank back up and took mains and rods to .020, that was a fail #1 main was O.E, #3 rod was .040 they were all over the board. same thing with the cam bearings getting the old cam out the bearings were nicked up said to just replace...polished the cam until it fit and replaced 1 bearing didn't even sink rear plug back in.

Needless to say I was unhappy with this shop again. I replaced all of my cam bearings(bought the tool and another set of bearings) old polished cam went to the garbage, smallest comp cam 3.8/4.2 cam went in nice and smooth no hard spots no nicks no issues.

Crank, I ordered a reman and put his old crank in the box. I specked it out on their counter everything was in tolerance, so putting it together went well, Melling oil pump with good amount of assembly lube. Everything that was in question was changed with O.E or upgraded, when I got it the truck it came from had 60k on it.

Prime it built oil pressure just fine, got to the point of firing it up 75psi cold, warms up falling down got to around 25 at idle in park(thinking gear pump fine) Drop it in gear gauge drops to 12.5. This is also with Valvoline racing 10w30 non synthetic(break in what I normally use). I drove the truck 2 times and it was running down the road at 1800rpm and 12.5psi...System also uses 6qt modified steel pan with remote filter(FL1A) pick up tube was 3/8"-7/16"( been a few months).

Anyone dealt with these engines? or this issue on them? At this point I am this far into it financially there is no turning back. I have been reading a lot of bypass valve swaps, I just don't see that with 75psi all the way across the board cold.

Thanks,
Curtis

 

Pretty much answered my own question, pulled sending unit out. swapped in mechanical 2 5/8" sport comp fire it up.
Cold 78psi in park 76 psi in gear, warmed up 197degree coolant, A/C on 22psi in park 20psi in gear, hot ramp it up until driving through brakes 50psi, park 2000-2500rpm 55psi.
Looks like a , I don't want to buy a gauge but rather that then tear down a engine.

Curtis

 

where is this machine shop that should be avoided?

keep us updated on the swap, I've a 3.8 in the garage that needs a purpose.

 

Shop is in Toledo, I won't name names. I like the guy, but when I spec the crank myself to find what I did, called him and he hung up. That's just bad business, sad because good shops around are few and far between. Makes it worse to see what Tim is doing(phenomenal work, track boss program, etc) and comparing my local shops that are still here. I could go farther towards Detroit or past Toledo, I have a local ford guy that has been a builder and has between his garage and barn majority of the machining equipment that last time I spoke with him was buying a building, and rest of the equipment I need to go talk to him. So if not I may send when the day comes for the 400 to Tim.
The swap I drive it everyday, I believe the 20psi at idle is all the 3.8 and 4.2s relief spring is at temp too weak just allowing it to bleed at idle. I did a lot of reading on the thunderbird super coupe forums, 20psi at idle in gear to them is spot on. It makes sense anyone with the factory pressure gauge 7psi it is right in the middle and you are happy with unknown pressure, add a aftermarket gauge and let the movement of the needle make you question.
I like the 4.2 it seems to do just fine, I need to get my rear suspension(going to a link set up with air ride) and explorer rear end(3.73) swapped in, down low it isn't very happy. I am also going to have to swap my converter out, my paperwork is for a FM69 converter but I do remember the box saying FM69L, so I have a converter for say a 5.4 behind my 4.2 that doesn't make torque down low like the 5.4. I am either going to go with a FM70(most noted for running it was the P71 police interceptors) or just a 2500 stall unit to help it get to speed easier, right now it is not happy with the current set up.
I would have really liked to swapped the 3.7 and a 6r80 into it but getting that EEC system to be happy not with the headache, if anything wait for the aftermarket controller price to come down and buy the modular to SBF adapter and put a 6r80 behind it instead of the 4r70.

Curtis

 

Well here is the update, the ranger now has 3.73 explorer rear end under it, with a radius arm set up with a track bar on air ride(it rides so much better). Swapped the converter out for a 2,300-2,500 stall unit. Now it effortlessly goes down the road happily. Everything was just buttoned up here Thursday night I have a few odds and ends things to button up this weekend.