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Another rear window thread but with a twist

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  #1  
Old 08-05-2017, 11:31 AM
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Another rear window thread but with a twist

95 EB 5.0. Rear window is either working flawlessly or not moving at all. When it's not moving the dome light dims when I'm either on the dash switch or key at tailgate. My son drives the truck and tells me sometimes it gets stuck down and sometimes up. Motor was replaced in 2013, and I replaced the right side roller in 2015. Left side was drooping and I found the roller to be crushed into an oval instead of a square.

This past week he was at the beach, so I drove the truck to try to mimic the problem he described. Monday, didn't budge. Tuesday morning, hit the dash button, got few pops and the window went down nicely! Immediately lubed the tracks and all moving parts (except for the rollers). Wednesday and Thursday, business as usual. Then Friday, stuck in the up position.

Anyone got ideas? Of course I first thought electrical, but the dimming dome light tells me I have power at both switches. The pops I heard tell me mechanical, but where do I start? Please help! We have brought this truck back to 100% original and the back window issue is owning me.
 
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  #2  
Old 08-06-2017, 01:58 AM
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My driver's door was doing that and I tapped the motor, while holding the switch and has been working ever since.

Will have to replace that motor soon.
 
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  #3  
Old 08-06-2017, 09:57 AM
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Have you checked the wiring between the tailgate and bed? I had a similar problem with my 95 ended up being a broken wire.
 
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Old 08-06-2017, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 86fsbronco View Post
Have you checked the wiring between the tailgate and bed? I had a similar problem with my 95 ended up being a broken wire.
I haven't checked this yet. Are these the wires in the left rear quarter behind the trim?
 
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Old 08-06-2017, 03:05 PM
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My guess would be that the motor is binding due to the sacrificial pucks inside being worn to the point of jamming between the gears. My window motor behaved identically to yours when my pucks needed replacing.
 
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Old 08-20-2017, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by schwim View Post
My guess would be that the motor is binding due to the sacrificial pucks inside being worn to the point of jamming between the gears. My window motor behaved identically to yours when my pucks needed replacing.
Might just put in a new motor, it started working again for a few days now it's stuck again. Did yours stick in the up and down position or only up?
 
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Old 08-20-2017, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ronjeremy6 View Post
Might just put in a new motor, it started working again for a few days now it's stuck again. Did yours stick in the up and down position or only up?
It was in both positions. It didn't follow any pattern. A lot of people simply forego the rebuild to go straight to a new motor. They don't cost that much money and it's more convenient/less hassle.
 
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Old 11-25-2017, 06:08 PM
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If you are still having this issue it could be a corrosion issue in the wire connections. I fought mine for about a month until I noticed connectors had a blackish coloring. I sanded & wire brushed all contacts (inner & out) until they were that brass ccolor again them put dielectric grease on them as well. 2 years trouble free now.
 
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Old 11-25-2017, 07:58 PM
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Couple of thoughts:

1. I replaced the delrin pucks in all three windows as mentioned by schwim. Time to do that if it hasn't been done yet for sure;

2. One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet, is the safety switch on the driver's side tailgate latch. You know how you can't roll up or down the window when the tailgate is down? Well there is a saftety switch in there which must be closed to complete the circuit for the switches to operate the motor. A couple of years back, I thought I had an "electrical" problem because my rear window would get stuck, but it turned out to be a "mechanical" problem in that the driver's side gate latch was not adjusted properly and, thus, was not engaging its safety switch.

Pretty much have to take the inside access panel off, figure out how to engage the switch via the tailgate catch with the gate in the horizontal position, then have someone "raise" the window horizontally while you are supporting it with your hands and then let it lay flat at a stress-free angle on one or more padded bar stools while you get in there with a mirror and clean up the contacts and everything and reposition the switch so it will engage when the tailgate latch is locked in the vertical upright position.
 
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Old 11-26-2017, 06:18 PM
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Fought the rear window problems for years, I finally had enough, in doing searches I took Steves advice and used two relays and rewired mine. Finally I can use mine with out key in ignition and it did away with the resistive factory wiring. Actually my rear key switch was not working before I rewired .Key switch works great and no more problems. Good luck TR
 
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  #11  
Old 04-14-2018, 01:09 AM
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Need link

Black Ford or others.
You referenced Steves link about using 2 relays for the back window. Does someone have a link for this upgrade? Please and Thank you.
 
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Old 04-14-2018, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by black & blue 78/9 View Post
Black Ford or others.
You referenced Steves link about using 2 relays for the back window. Does someone have a link for this upgrade? Please and Thank you.
Here you go.
 
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