I made basically the same thing you have there and cranked mine up to #30 and didn't get shot. You could rough up the plastic with a rasp or some coarse sand paper if it'd make you feel better. The crankcase vent (CCV) attaches to the bottom of the intake hose and to the valve cover, look at the top of the valve cover near the firewall, you'll see it. You need to go back to just one rubber tube between the tester and the turbo. That last piece of rubber tube is technically called the turbo inlet tube if you ever need to shop for one.

 

Insert tester AFTER the coupling unit, mid air intake. You'll see a black rubber 90* connected underneath.

 

Yes, like Timmyboy76 said. If you look close you can see the clamp for the coupler near the top of the picture. Then, where the tester is at is the filter minder.

Based on what I could see, it looks like he removed the air box tube at the box, plugged in the tester and fired it up. I would have done the same thing if someone had not told me about the CCV.

If you can get the tester right off the metal part of the turbo inlet/compressor, then that is the best way to do it. If not, just insure that the CCV is isolated otherwise your results will not be accurate.

Don't forget to check the lower spider/plenum boots, that is a typical spot for leaks.

 

I did mine like the original post by SkySkiJason back in 2011 https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ctor-pics.html.

I didn't read through the whole thing to see if there was anything about the CCV.

Ok, all sounds good. I'll give it another go after it cools off outside.

 

Take some pics, love pics of peoples projects.

 

Interested in the results. Subscribing.

 

Weather has conspired to keep me from rerunning the boost leak test. But, when moving the travel trailer to storage yesterday, I got the boost to 17.8psi on one uphill at nearly 3000rpm. Maybe I don't have leaks? I will re-test when I get back from travel in a few weeks.

 

Before you get too carried away I would highly recommend safety wiring the wastegate shut and plugging the red line. Give it a test run and see if you have a difference. 14 is low, and a healthy stock SD will make 22-23lbs max, bone stock-tuning has nothing to do with it.

Your oil temps are fine.

Your boost leak testing the correct way however you need to plug or cap your CCV with a 3/4" plug and you intake manifold pressure sensing line inlet(green tube into intake).

Best of luck and your MPGs are not too far off, not sure if that was flat landing or on the hills but 12-13 is what I see pulling that weight behind ours.

 

Are you sure about that? I've never been able to get over about 17-18 if I recall, and I seem to remember this is normal for a stock truck. When I checked I had no leaks and my turbo is newer, truck performs great.

 

Couldnt be more positive, there is a 99 in the shop right now that makes 23 and There are a few forum members that have had work done here and specifically brought their trucks in for low boost issues. They are all over 21 now

 

Yup, I have a E99, 365K, I'm getting 23 in boost. I've had Nik work on my truck, he knows his ****.

 

Are these 20+ boost numbers with the Redline/wastegate mods, or pure stock?

 

Both, but if I had it my way, there never would have been a waste gate or EBPV on the stock units;-)

 

Back from travel and have some leave. Time to figure out if I have any boost leaks.

Got everything off back to the turbo inlet tube. Man, what a bunch of sludge in there. When taking off the parts to get back to the turbo inlet tube, found that the last two band clamps were loose. Probably when I asked the dealer to show me the turbo...he never tightened them back up. Hope my turbo didn't take too much abuse from that. Roughed up the plastic on my tester and pressurized.
Again, major leak at the redline fitting at the wastegate actutor. Also leaked where the green line goes into the turbo inlet tube.
Also had a leak at the orange boot on the passenger side.

Does the fact I have different colored boots indicate some were replaced?

Ok all you 7.3 experts, what next? Replace all the boots? Replace only the orange ones? Put in plenum sleeves? How do you cap a redline that leaks? Anything else I should be doing while I'm in there?

 

- Red line you can get a new vacuum fitting from most parts stores to match.
- If you have the funds and time, I would replace all of the boots with RiffRaff or Diesel Site boots (I installed RiffRaff) and all new clamps.
- The plenum inserts are a nice bit of insurance when cranking down on the clamps as the plenum is thin metal and the inserts allow for much more force to be applied.

This is one of the first things I did to my truck and it made a noticeable difference in how the truck performed and responded to throttle inputs.

No leaks around the plenums, that is a good thing.