I just made a complaint to the Quality control at the dealership my took my excursion to (see dealership receipt here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...il-leak-3.html)


I told her that when I got my excursion back, the clerk told me the dealership was unable to put the bolt back in the oil pan without charging me extra because the bolt was hard to put in. Their response wasn't listed in the receipt but it does list my complaint in the receipt comments.

Can anyone look at the missing bolt in the pictures above and tell me how hard it is to put in and how to put it in?

Also the shop manager just called me about the oil leaking and said they would look at it and tell me if they had to disassemble anything in order to fix whats leaking oil.

of course they should have done whatever disassembling was necessary earlier when I paid them 1878.26.

Considering I paid them almost 1900 and I still have the problem I did, what exactly should the shop manager be offering me? Obviously more than bring it in and we will look at it and if necessary charge you $120 for diagnostics (again)

And is it that hard to replace the bolt in the corner of the pain as in the photo I posted?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/TuS4p7DdtIyXE7912

 

I just called the dealership back and told them of the "offer" the shop manager made me- to take my excursion back, and if they had to tear into it to see where the leak was coming from it would be a 120$ charge. Which of course is no offer, other than what a customer with a new problem would be offered.

I told the QC clerk that if I took it back and they replaced the icp and piggy back and just charged me for parts that would be one thing, but theres no way I am paying for a dime more labor when I just paid 1800 to get it fixed. She clarified what I said by asking if I would be satisfied with their replacing the icp and piggyback and didnt charge me labor. I told her I mustve misspoke, I wasnt sure what would make me happy at this point I was in the process of talking to dealership guys on ford-trucks.com about what would be fair according to my receipt and what I paid, but I know I would have a problem with paying another dime of labor toward this problem

Does that make sense? Considering the receipt and how much I paid, what do you think, and especially, for those working in dealerships what would be a fair offer from them now?

 

Uh, I think it would take longer to go find the bolt in parts than to install it. There are two lengths of bolts, oddly enough, so you would need to spend a solid 30 seconds confirming it's the correct one.

Your receipt is insane. You told them bolt was missing; they didn't replace it? The could probably nail you $10 for the hardware part and $50 for labor, and they just........ left it? Then he pulled the whole stinking fan just to take out the intake?

Hey Mike, when was the last time you pulled a fan and shroud to remove a 6.0 intake?

 

What is CP $1179.88

 

That's the labor charge, customer pay not flag.

 

..........dayumm......

 

I appreciate all these comments. I will need them monday. Yesterday the quality control clerk's supervisor's supervisor called me from Guthrie and was a bit of a wiseass but said the shop manager would call me monday about setting up an appointment to bring it in.

I still need to know exactly what I should expect from the dealership in regards to their failure to diagnose, and charging me over 1800$.

So if anyone especially those working in dealerships or at least with them please advise

 

Never, in the years I've worked on these engines when they were coming in quite regularly for me. And that's with pulling the intake manifolds on both van and pickup applications.

 

The dealership sad that the coolant hose was supposed to be where it is. Do you have anything to say about that before I take it back to the dealership Monday?

 

I would, at the very least, expect them to degrease the engine to see where the leak is coming from. That would've been the first thing to do in my opinion. But I hate dirty engines and always keep mine pretty clean so I may be a bit biased. I also hate how these stealerships rape people of large sums of money and get an attitude when you call them out on something, like they are doing us a huge favor. And saying that bolt is too hard to get to? It's clear as day in the picture! A simple thing like that would go a long way in providing good customer service. Unfortunately customer service is long dead to most of these people today. Yet another reason I try to support local shops when at all possible. Best of luck to you!

 

Here are some pics of the engine bay in case someone can tell something from them I cant

 

The dealership is calling in the morning to arrange a time for me to take my EX back in

Someone above said I should get back some money for their faulty diagnose labor but im trying to figure out if my icp is under the turbo. If it is they should've checked it when the turbo was off. I tried to see the icp in the engine bay yesterday can you from the above pics

I will wa it for their new diagnosis and post it here before telling them what to do with it.

if they call back and now say it's the ICP should I expect them to replace it and pigtail parts and labor on them considering they already have had my EX for a work week and been paid almost 1900?

 

The pics in the preceding post above, to me as a Ford dealer tech reveal the following: this is obviously a 2003 model year engine (even if not a 2003 model year vehicle). The FICM mounting gives it away. The vacuum hose to your heater control valve is disconnected. Your oil filler cap is missing the top half. There are no obvious leaks from the upper part of the engine that I can see.

Being a 2003 engine, your ICP sensor IS under the turbo adjacent to the IPR valve. That said, if it is in fact leaking oil, the correct part numbers are 3C3Z-9F838-EA for the ICP sensor, and 5C3Z-12224-A for the replacement wiring pigtail connector.

 

Thanks for that. Is there in the dealership somethi g that tells you how long it takes to put a bolt or all the bolts in the oil pan

 

I will probably type the shop mgr a note telling him what I expect and also critiquing the 1870$ Bill I paid.

I looked in the shop manual and the 6.0 manual to back up the intake removal procedure but will just tell the mgr that several career dealership techs told me they never had themselves nor heard of anyone removing the fan shroud to remove the intake, in other words I was getting gouged or the re h was incompetent or trying to fill the invoice with verbiage etc.

also will tell him get get me the bolt for my pan I told him I needed and I will put it in if it's too much for his techs

Thanks for all the help and let me know if there's anything else to add other than they need to fix it for what they've been paid (also mention to him that several career Text said the 1st thing they would have looked for was the ICP sensor and pigtails and that wasn't even mentioned in the and voice even though he had the Turbo off and had to look straight at it