For sure you can still use them. I only use them in the full open to direct wind inside the truck. They will not do that. I imagine you can move the plate further out but it would be difficult to get a nut on the corner bolt. Then there would be a huge gab between the mirror backing and the glass.

 

I should have never bought this truck LOL.
After the body, frame restoration is done.


Future projects are.
1. Turbo / stick upgrades.
2. Suspension wheel and tires. SD springs kit and??? air bags?
3. Engine and trans rebuild as needed.


On another note I have been working on a matching trailer for the 7.3/ It was the rear half of another 7.3. Additional fuel tank for backup! also backup axle incase I ever need one.

 

Working on the Chevy mirror mounts for the new doors.

 

That looks awesome. I would love to do this but I don't feel like getting the truck painted any time soon lol

 

I hope it turns out good. I did not weld it in far enough so I have a larger gap. I was worried about the wing window rubber having enough room to seal up with out cutting on it. I guess there is enough room . I don't know for sure. I may use some filler to give it some shape or I may just use a little seam sealer. give the base a light rounded edge. Welding on that thin metal is not easy with a basic wire feed.


I hope to have that door ready for paint this week. then I will start on the other door.

 

I can post photos of the process if anyone is interested, If not ok too.

 

Mike I enjoy seeing your work. Please post photos as I have to redo my mirror brackets and am undecided on my solution.

 

Do a write up man I dont like the big mirror look on our old rigs, but know that im towing a gooseneck camping trailer, im starting to raise an eye brow, and the best part I already have the Cheby tow mirrors.

 

I was on the fence about how to move forward with my mirrors. If I had put the mirror on the bracket before I started welding it would have been flush with the door frame. I either cut mine off and redo it or move on and dress it up. since this door is an extra door I will complete it first. If I don't like it I will redo the door on the truck.

 

I have filled the gap with metal and made it flush with the plastic.

I added another layer of metal to fill the gap here. i will fill remaining area with fiberglass filler. It will be small so no cracks in the filler.

this is before the extra layer of mental.

here it is from further away before extra metal was added. I will contour the body filler to make it flow better.

 

You should use solder instead of filler makes the job alot cleaner, and you wont get those cracks like with filler/bondo.

 

Why solder fill? the gaps have or will be welded. The filler is to curve the corner. I think I will just use Aluminum reinforced filler. That stuff is strong and flexes.



Eastwood Contour Aluminum Reinforced Repair Compound Body Filler 25.3 ozItem #13518ZP Only $27.99
Add to Cart

 

My bad i miss read your post.

 

I am now understanding why a real paint job cost 7k or more. I have almost 2 k in paint and body products. Then to pay someone to sand down the body and fix all the dents and what not. wow. I will be doing most of it myself but I may have a guy do a once over body check and paint . I don't have a spray booth. My shop has a dirt floor. I wish I did concrete in it this year as I would build the filter system for it. I have 2 more trucks and a VW bug to paint.

 

New fenders in. It sad how they pack them. they need dent removal before i can install them. I want to protect the inside fenders with something. What should I use? POR15 would work great but man it costly.$$ I don't trust that rubber spray anymore. Bed liner but again costly. Not that rust is a major issue in NV but its still here due to all the salt in the dirt.