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Best chip mods for 7.3l 2002

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  #16  
Old 07-31-2017, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Keabler
Why do you say the first mod should be to the transmission, and what would that consist of? A new valve body, or something more extensive? I posted below that I already have intake and exhaust moded.
Our transmissions 4r100 were built to handle for the most part the stock level Hp and Tq levels while adhering to the manufactures suggested towing capabilities when towing. But even then, they can go out prematurely as my Excursion did, as well as my 03 F250. Both at around 170-200K. I don't tow with these 2 and never did, but lost a transmission on both. As Sous mentioned, it is a weak link on our trucks, and more so once you start adding HP/Tq modifications to the truck and begin to push it much harder than it was intended for.
Now as far as price goes, again it's gonna depend on your intended use for the truck. A few examples would be if your gonna leave your truck with stock injectors and turbo, but add a Tuner and maybe a turbo billet compressor wheel and some slight fuel mods. The following is an excellent choice. Some one correct me here if I'm wrong, but I think Ford still offers an HD 4r100 transmission that comes with an upgraded Tq converter and some other modifications. This is a very good deal and will also help with towing/DD/ and mild performance. And if memory serves me right, it's all for about $ 3600 +/- installed and comes with a 3yr/36000 warranty. Not bad at all.
So there's your starting point for a transmission.
A Stage 5-6 built 4R100 is gonna cost around $8K
And I too run GH tunes.
 
  #17  
Old 07-31-2017, 05:18 PM
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Thank you. I am going to use hydra, and like what ive read about gearhead tunes. As for the transmission... Well, I guess I need to do a whole lot more reading.
Thank you all again!
 
  #18  
Old 08-01-2017, 02:08 PM
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If I were to do it all over again (speaking ONLY for mods that is, be prepared to put some attention into the transmission first as others have said) I would take about $600 and invest in:
1) fuel regulated return
2) high flow CVD's
3) Hydra


Once you do the regulated return FIRST your fuel system will no longer require the very restrictive check valves inline with the fuel supply lines to each fuel rail. Hence the High Flow CVD fittings as the SECOND upgrade (both from Riff Raff). Then of course the Hydra. Of course then there is the in tank Hutch mod and the fuel lift pump and so on. And also of course before any mod this is all assuming there are no issues with your injectors or high pressure oil system.
 
  #19  
Old 08-01-2017, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mototrig

your fuel system will no longer require the very restrictive check valves inline with the fuel supply lines to each fuel rail. Hence the High Flow CVD fittings as the SECOND upgrade
To each their own, but those "restrictive" fittings don't keep a lot of people from making 500+ horsepower.

Stock-injector pickups (which I would say include up to 80% of the people here) aren't even breaking 300-ish horsepower.
 
  #20  
Old 08-01-2017, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by cleatus12r
To each their own, but those "restrictive" fittings don't keep a lot of people from making 500+ horsepower.
No doubt high horspower can be made with them in place, but how much effort would it take to make that kind of power with them in place as opposed to removed. I noticed a significant power gain after swapping them out with the high flow CVD's. For $28 and about an hour of wrenching it almost seems like they are an under appreciated mod due to the cheap price and ease of install.
 
  #21  
Old 08-01-2017, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by mototrig
No doubt high horspower can be made with them in place, but how much effort would it take to make that kind of power with them in place as opposed to removed. I noticed a significant power gain after swapping them out with the high flow CVD's. For $28 and about an hour of wrenching it almost seems like they are an under appreciated mod due to the cheap price and ease of install.
I will be doing the fuel mods to include the cvd and hutch mod, and riffraff fuel crossover. Everyone keeps saying transmission mods first, but I must not know the right search terms to find those mods. Only thing I've seen is the valve body. Any tips for finding those discussions?
 
  #22  
Old 08-02-2017, 09:46 AM
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Transmission cooler from the 6.0 is key for you automatic guys. Valve body helps too. Proper tuning and maintenance, that is about it unless you are looking at BTS, John Wood or HD4R100 swap.
 
  #23  
Old 08-02-2017, 03:43 PM
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I put a modified valve body on my slushbox when I bought my truck 10 years ago. The transmission was rebuilt/replaced at 120K, I bought it with 146K on the clock, put a valve body on it, and have not had to do anything except fluid/filter changes since (knock on wood). I'm currently at 305K miles.
 
  #24  
Old 08-02-2017, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Sous
Transmission cooler from the 6.0 is key for you automatic guys. Valve body helps too. Proper tuning and maintenance, that is about it unless you are looking at BTS, John Wood or HD4R100 swap.
I'll wait until I need to buy one to do the bts tranny, but the valve body I may still do. Is the 6.0 cooler better than the aftermarket ones?
 
  #25  
Old 08-02-2017, 11:44 PM
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I only have mild mods on my truck. I figured no need for tranny work. It's too expensive.......Then, with my mild mods, hit the dyno. Yep, tranny lived about a week longer. Then it wasnt a "I'll save up money until I can afford it" deal. I got out the credit card.

And yes, the 6.0 cooler is WAY better. It is almost as big as our radiators.
 
  #26  
Old 08-03-2017, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by bleeds blue
I only have mild mods on my truck. I figured no need for tranny work. It's too expensive.......Then, with my mild mods, hit the dyno. Yep, tranny lived about a week longer. Then it wasnt a "I'll save up money until I can afford it" deal. I got out the credit card.

And yes, the 6.0 cooler is WAY better. It is almost as big as our radiators.
Thank you. That makes my decision easy. I'll do the 6.0 cooler first, then the other stuff.
 
  #27  
Old 08-03-2017, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Keabler
Thank you. That makes my decision easy. I'll do the 6.0 cooler first, then the other stuff.
This is what I used, brand new, no debris and excellent price point.

Look at this on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/391716327676

Transmission Cooler for F-250 SD, F-350 SD, F-450 SD, F-550 SD FO4050104


I also installed one of these in the HOT SIDE i.e. BEFORE the cooler to prevent any particles from transmission contaminating the new cooler. It was worth it, 6 months later my TQ died, that filter was full of paste like particles. The shop that rebuilt my transmission didn't think too much of that little filter before we pulled it apart. Afterwards they were sold and have been installing them on the trucks when they rebuild a transmission. I converted 95% of my transmission lines to 1/2" when I went to the 6.0 cooler, that's why that posting below is for a 1/2" filter line, They also make 3/8" filters.


Look at this on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/150613214917

Magnefine 1/2" Inline Magnetic Transmission Filter
 
  #28  
Old 08-03-2017, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Colorado350
This is what I used, brand new, no debris and excellent price point.

Look at this on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/391716327676

Transmission Cooler for F-250 SD, F-350 SD, F-450 SD, F-550 SD FO4050104


I also installed one of these in the HOT SIDE i.e. BEFORE the cooler to prevent any particles from transmission contaminating the new cooler. It was worth it, 6 months later my TQ died, that filter was full of paste like particles. The shop that rebuilt my transmission didn't think too much of that little filter before we pulled it apart. Afterwards they were sold and have been installing them on the trucks when they rebuild a transmission. I converted 95% of my transmission lines to 1/2" when I went to the 6.0 cooler, that's why that posting below is for a 1/2" filter line, They also make 3/8" filters.


Look at this on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/150613214917

Magnefine 1/2" Inline Magnetic Transmission Filter
Cool. Thank you! I ordered them both today.
 
  #29  
Old 08-03-2017, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by mototrig
If I were to do it all over again (speaking ONLY for mods that is, be prepared to put some attention into the transmission first as others have said) I would take about $600 and invest in:
1) fuel regulated return
2) high flow CVD's
3) Hydra


Once you do the regulated return FIRST your fuel system will no longer require the very restrictive check valves inline with the fuel supply lines to each fuel rail. Hence the High Flow CVD fittings as the SECOND upgrade (both from Riff Raff). Then of course the Hydra. Of course then there is the in tank Hutch mod and the fuel lift pump and so on. And also of course before any mod this is all assuming there are no issues with your injectors or high pressure oil system.
The factory fuel system is fine, zero reasons to touch it. You can make well over 400hp on a 100% stock fuel system.
 
  #30  
Old 08-03-2017, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by mototrig
No doubt high horspower can be made with them in place, but how much effort would it take to make that kind of power with them in place as opposed to removed. I noticed a significant power gain after swapping them out with the high flow CVD's. For $28 and about an hour of wrenching it almost seems like they are an under appreciated mod due to the cheap price and ease of install.

No... no you did not.

Its called Placebo... If you would like me to post the definition I can for you.
 


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