I hear that!

I used to make biodiesel. Washed it and dried it and really had quality stuff. Bought chemicals by the tractor trailer load (sold about 2/3, I didn't use that much), and was off to the races

Used it in our offroad equipment (pre-Excursion ownership) and was living large...then WINTER came. I could treat it with kero, or switch to regular diesel.

I planned to switch our oil boiler over to bio (heater to monitor temp and tweak the flame sensor).

I quickly ran out of tanks for oil + biodiesel + diesel.

But we put our anthracite boiler in parallel with the oil boiler that rarely (if ever) gets used now, bought around 2500 gals cheaper diesel when the price was down (no ethanol to destroy it like gas, so it keeps), and $9 treatment per storage tank (1600 gal, etc) to winterize it.

We decided in this cold weather area of PA, it just isn't "economical" for the time, effort, and costs- especially heating. We even used vacuum to lower the boiling point, which helped a great deal.

If we were in a warmer climate? Heck yes! It is a great tech and rather simple, provided you take the time to make QUALITY bio

BTW, anyone close to Western PA who wants to make biodiesel? I think I still have a couple hundred gal methanol, lots of NaOH, some KOH (anhydrous, lab grade), etc....I'd make someone a good deal

I still have aspirations of modifying the oil boiler, but likely to run it as a "wasteoil" furnace and use filtered, dried and polished oil. A true "wasteoil" is not legal for use in residential heating, IIRC. I agree with that, all the differences in oil can make for inconsistent burning = potential dangerous gases.

Back to the biodiesel in my truck this trip.

The main "risk" I would expect is the initial cleaning that bio does when it is first used

BTW, I ordered 2 more 100 pc boxes of nitrile gloves. Gotta thank Tugly for finding those

 

I think Amazon hates me

Ordered TWO sets of Alliant injector orings by 2nd day, one last week, reordered again this week. They can't process an order to save their lives

At one point, the order was scheduled to ship NEXT Monday, but wouldn't let me cancel it, rep said it "was in the shipping process" and refused to cancel the order, ship the order, or refund the purchase.

Without going into too many details, I was scheduled to be at the courthouse this am and started my package for the Atty General, when the supervisor called me back, very contrite and quiet. I think *somebody* reviewed the telephone call and took my complaints seriously about violating various consumer protection laws, mail order regulations, and some other specific phrases.

Anywho....

All that ruckus and I picked up the phone to call Dieselorings, told them what I needed, extra $25 for 2nd day shipping, and got notice within about 15 mins that it had shipped!

Way to go Jeff!

Although I was being (ahem...cheap) and trying to use the Prime shipping that I pay for, at this point, my helper is probably going to spend more than $25 round trip to come help.

No runaround, no dry responses, no hassles. Just parts, from a fellow enthusiast

They are in Colorado, not real close, but closer than the other option.

Wanted to give them a THUMBS UP and shout out for being groovy guys!

 

I have found that the 7 mil Nitrile gloves from Harbor Freight work really well. The 5 mil are too thin, but good for simple jobs. They also have 9 mil gloves, haven't tried those.

 

I used the blue ones for years. Limited usage, can never reuse, often break including every couple while putting them on.

These from Amazon:





Less expensive than HF, quite stretchy, pretty rugged. Tugly posted them up a while back and I've gone through about 7 boxes so far. I think I got TWO gloves that I consider defective as they tore while putting them on.

I am so pleased with them, I have decided to just keep them in stock in the garage and not be concerned with "how many" I use.

At the end of some jobs, looks like a bunch of black eyed susans are growing everywhere

Try a box and see what you think. I am really glad I did

 

I missed that post. Yup, they clearly look better (thicker) and are cheaper. But I've never had issues with the HF 7mil ones (dark blue). In fact I'm often able to take them off and reuse them.

 

have a chance to take that turbo off yet?

 

We pulled the injectors tonight: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17371477

So far found one torn cup, 3 bad sets of orings.

I reached in and tried to wiggle the input turbine shaft, no play that I could detect.

When I way moving it to the garage, the turbo whistled.

That's about as far as I got with the turbo

I'm planning on running some leak tests on cups...just pressurize the coolant reservoir with...10-15 psi and spray some simple green into the cups and look for bubbles?

I'm hoping just a torn cup and not someone before me doing cups and a poor job of sealing them

 

BTW, how bad are Dorman cups? Got a buddy with some cups, he's not sure what brand, though. I'm guessing Dormans

Think he also has a tool I can borrow and sealant.

 

Following along to see how you make out

 

IMO, cups are not something that I would trust to Dorman. After pulling all injectors, removing cups, cleaning the channels that the cups rest in of all previous sealant, seating cups, and waiting 12-24 hours to cure, and then the reinstall, I think you'll be happy you went with OEM should you choose to do so. 7 & 8 aren't a picnic....you'll need a mirror.

Also, clean the top hold-down bolt holes, bolts, and use Loc-tite 243 and torque to at least 120 inch/lbs using the correct wrench.

All of the above = peace of mind when you are on you next trip far from home, especially with family along. My .02, nothing more.

 

Thanks, guys. I have 7 cups, adhesive and a Rosewood diesel tool was dropped off today by a friend.

Have to get brushes and an 8th cup.

I might start on Saturday draining and cleaning and stuff

PS- Good point on the cups. I have to check the make of these...

 

They are all the same, I've used oem, Dorman and no name brand cups from eBay and all worked great, the trick is prepping and cleaning the areas really good and having a clean oil free seat.

I also used ELC on my obs when I installed the rebuild long block, I used eBay cups with locktite green 620 and so far so good.

 

Just want to follow a long. Like to see what you find.

 

Jump on, let's see where this boat floats

I do the same thing, trying to learn from others' experiences.

Just in case you missed it, I am paining over which injectors to get here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17375893

 

I've read some of the instructions, but the writeups I looked at were bitten by the "I hate photobucket" bug

Anyone have pics of the cups with the adhesive on them, showing which surfaces to coat and about how much?

I'm hoping to pull some today and want to get ready to put new ones in soon.

Also- about how much adhesive does it take for 8 cups? My buddy gave me his 7 cups and adhesive. I'll get an 8th cup. Do I need more Loctite?

Thanks!