1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Tired 360 FE, what mods are cheap and easy for hp?

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Old 07-29-2017, 02:08 PM
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Tired 360 FE, what mods are cheap and easy for hp?

I recently bought a 1968 f-100 with a 360 fe. It has terrible throttle response and quite frankly is a turd.

My friend has the same engine with only headers, intake, and carb, as performance parts. He also deleted all emissions that were in the truck, and his is way more powerful.

I was wondering if there's any way to increase horsepower, torque, and throttle response without spending a fortune. When I get on the gas it hesitates and sometimes feels like its going to die.

Basically asking what modifications are recommended and affordable to boost hp and torque thanks.
 
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Old 07-29-2017, 02:17 PM
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Part 1.
Headers, dual exhaust, electronic ignition
Part 2.
4v carb, intake and cam.

... that's as easy and relatively cheap as it gets... your spending habits and wrenchworthiness factors into all this.
 
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Old 07-29-2017, 04:53 PM
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I would like to add doing a full tune up. And prolly carb rebuild. Cap , rotor, wires, BSF-42 plugs, vacuum hose, air filter, oil change if needed, fuel filter bottom of fuel pump, points, condenser, if it still has them. BUY ONLY Genuine Ford condenser and points. We have had a TON of bad new condensers on here lately. Aftermarket made in china junk. Ford's condensers are not made there.
Points......B8Q12171A (DP-12)
Condenser....C9AZ12300A (DC-13A)
Still available from Ford.
 
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Old 07-29-2017, 09:47 PM
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Might check the overall health of the engine first with a leak down test or at least a compression test.
 
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Old 07-29-2017, 09:54 PM
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First do a compression test to see if it is even worth putting parts in it. If the compression is not even and around at least 115psi, and should not vary more than 10psi across the eight cylinders. If this is good do what has been suggested. Two major things are electronic ignition and a good carb. If you do go to a 4 barrel do not go over 600cfm.
 
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Old 07-30-2017, 08:08 AM
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Timing is very important as well. Try bumping up your timing to 14-18* but check your total as well. Prob 36*-40* total should be fine just listen for pinging. But in all honesty 360's are kinda soggy. If a rebuild is in your future go 390.
 
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Old 07-30-2017, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by fe390pc
First do a compression test to see if it is even worth putting parts in it. If the compression is not even and around at least 115psi, and should not vary more than 10psi across the eight cylinders. If this is good do what has been suggested. Two major things are electronic ignition and a good carb. If you do go to a 4 barrel do not go over 600cfm.
2x what fe390 says as you don't want to waste your time & money for the added horse power you can't get with weak compression in the cylinders.

Ps if you don't have harden exh. seats in the heads then your power will keep dropping off until heads get rebuilt.

Orich
 
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Old 07-30-2017, 08:39 AM
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Find a good period repair manual or two, shop manual, etc and study it, these engines are simple. MoToRs Auto Repair are excellent. As discussed the very first step in a tuneup, pg. 1 paragraph 1 is the cylinder compression test. Follow the steps exactly as described so it's a valid true test and see what you have to work with.

Then, if the innards are basically sound, go from there. After 50 years there's no telling how many nutjobs with a Golden Screwdriver have been working on that thing. Get everything in spec and you might be surprised. Everything always effects something else downstream, and will make you think it's a carb problem when it's really the ignition etc. You can wake any motor up with some distributor advance curving but you'll have to study this a little while before it sinks in. Just focus on getting everything plussed up to factory spec for now.
 
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Old 07-31-2017, 08:27 AM
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Orich and Tedster9 have good points. The main thing is to check your starting point.
 
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