Tired 360 FE, what mods are cheap and easy for hp?
#1
Tired 360 FE, what mods are cheap and easy for hp?
I recently bought a 1968 f-100 with a 360 fe. It has terrible throttle response and quite frankly is a turd.
My friend has the same engine with only headers, intake, and carb, as performance parts. He also deleted all emissions that were in the truck, and his is way more powerful.
I was wondering if there's any way to increase horsepower, torque, and throttle response without spending a fortune. When I get on the gas it hesitates and sometimes feels like its going to die.
Basically asking what modifications are recommended and affordable to boost hp and torque thanks.
My friend has the same engine with only headers, intake, and carb, as performance parts. He also deleted all emissions that were in the truck, and his is way more powerful.
I was wondering if there's any way to increase horsepower, torque, and throttle response without spending a fortune. When I get on the gas it hesitates and sometimes feels like its going to die.
Basically asking what modifications are recommended and affordable to boost hp and torque thanks.
#2
#3
I would like to add doing a full tune up. And prolly carb rebuild. Cap , rotor, wires, BSF-42 plugs, vacuum hose, air filter, oil change if needed, fuel filter bottom of fuel pump, points, condenser, if it still has them. BUY ONLY Genuine Ford condenser and points. We have had a TON of bad new condensers on here lately. Aftermarket made in china junk. Ford's condensers are not made there.
Points......B8Q12171A (DP-12)
Condenser....C9AZ12300A (DC-13A)
Still available from Ford.
Points......B8Q12171A (DP-12)
Condenser....C9AZ12300A (DC-13A)
Still available from Ford.
#5
First do a compression test to see if it is even worth putting parts in it. If the compression is not even and around at least 115psi, and should not vary more than 10psi across the eight cylinders. If this is good do what has been suggested. Two major things are electronic ignition and a good carb. If you do go to a 4 barrel do not go over 600cfm.
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First do a compression test to see if it is even worth putting parts in it. If the compression is not even and around at least 115psi, and should not vary more than 10psi across the eight cylinders. If this is good do what has been suggested. Two major things are electronic ignition and a good carb. If you do go to a 4 barrel do not go over 600cfm.
Ps if you don't have harden exh. seats in the heads then your power will keep dropping off until heads get rebuilt.
Orich
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#8
Find a good period repair manual or two, shop manual, etc and study it, these engines are simple. MoToRs Auto Repair are excellent. As discussed the very first step in a tuneup, pg. 1 paragraph 1 is the cylinder compression test. Follow the steps exactly as described so it's a valid true test and see what you have to work with.
Then, if the innards are basically sound, go from there. After 50 years there's no telling how many nutjobs with a Golden Screwdriver have been working on that thing. Get everything in spec and you might be surprised. Everything always effects something else downstream, and will make you think it's a carb problem when it's really the ignition etc. You can wake any motor up with some distributor advance curving but you'll have to study this a little while before it sinks in. Just focus on getting everything plussed up to factory spec for now.
Then, if the innards are basically sound, go from there. After 50 years there's no telling how many nutjobs with a Golden Screwdriver have been working on that thing. Get everything in spec and you might be surprised. Everything always effects something else downstream, and will make you think it's a carb problem when it's really the ignition etc. You can wake any motor up with some distributor advance curving but you'll have to study this a little while before it sinks in. Just focus on getting everything plussed up to factory spec for now.
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