Made the cut: battery cable upgrades
#31
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,277
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That's okay. I just went out to start my truck after sitting for 9 days. 11.1v, 9.1v cranking = No start
I left the camper plugged in via the 7pin. I haven't checked to see if the charging circuit is enabled, in good condition, etc. But it looks like I might have to
Either that, or that alternator that puked last month killed my batteries
Sooo....I may be following your lead sooner rather than later
I have some other things I need to take care of at home before I can work on the Excursion, though, so might be another week or so. Thanks for the great documentation and pics
I left the camper plugged in via the 7pin. I haven't checked to see if the charging circuit is enabled, in good condition, etc. But it looks like I might have to
Either that, or that alternator that puked last month killed my batteries
Sooo....I may be following your lead sooner rather than later
I have some other things I need to take care of at home before I can work on the Excursion, though, so might be another week or so. Thanks for the great documentation and pics
#32
#33
But to answer your question, drill press vice and whatever lumber you need to set it on is pretty handy for cables still in the truck. For the cables I replaced completely I just used the vice on the workbench.
#34
When I soldered mine I held them in a drill press vice, so they could have a steady base to sit on. Fluxed the cable and lug then melted solder into the lug until it was about half to 3/4 full slowly inserted the cable with the torch bearing down on the lug, held the torch a few seconds after the cable was fully inserted, then killed the torch and let it cool. Then I shot a dab of fluid film around the connection between lug and cable and sealed it up with heat shrink. Couldn't find any marine stuff in northern MN (about as far from the ocean as you can get), so I used some buried cable heat shrink, probably similar.
But to answer your question, drill press vice and whatever lumber you need to set it on is pretty handy for cables still in the truck. For the cables I replaced completely I just used the vice on the workbench.
But to answer your question, drill press vice and whatever lumber you need to set it on is pretty handy for cables still in the truck. For the cables I replaced completely I just used the vice on the workbench.
#35
#36
Jesser, just to be 100% clear here, you did not replace any of the OEM wiring, you only replaced the connections, clamps and added wiring correct?
Joe, did you remove the wiring from the truck in order to solder the connections or did you solder them while mounted to the truck? I would like to solder my connections rather than crimp, but don't know if I could trust myself with a torch so close to other things that flames don't get along with.
Joe, did you remove the wiring from the truck in order to solder the connections or did you solder them while mounted to the truck? I would like to solder my connections rather than crimp, but don't know if I could trust myself with a torch so close to other things that flames don't get along with.
#39
I didn't not replace factory wire; I updated the weathered connections and added additional wire to support my expansion needs.
The solder vs. crimp is as old as the hills. I like looked at the factory connections and they were all crimped. Thus, I chose to crimp.
my only issue with the factory battery terminals is the limited connection points and the failure of the stamped metal.
The ground crimps and charge crimps all looked very good, but corroded because it was exposed to the elements. With the new crimps, I'm hoping I've sealed the connections enough to protect them from the elements.
The solder vs. crimp is as old as the hills. I like looked at the factory connections and they were all crimped. Thus, I chose to crimp.
my only issue with the factory battery terminals is the limited connection points and the failure of the stamped metal.
The ground crimps and charge crimps all looked very good, but corroded because it was exposed to the elements. With the new crimps, I'm hoping I've sealed the connections enough to protect them from the elements.
#41
Any questions I can answer for you? I’ve been running this for several months now and the truck is solid. I now need to replace my batteries because they are 5 years old and struggle in the sub-freezing temps we’ve had in Oklahoma. Keeping the batteries on a trickle charger when I don’t drive it helps them stay strong.
#42
Vibration plays into it but also heat. Resistance creates heat and then your solder melts from the connection further compounding the issue. That's the reason you don't solder house wiring. If you run a circuit to its max you can get it hot enough to melt the solder.
#43
Any questions I can answer for you? I’ve been running this for several months now and the truck is solid. I now need to replace my batteries because they are 5 years old and struggle in the sub-freezing temps we’ve had in Oklahoma. Keeping the batteries on a trickle charger when I don’t drive it helps them stay strong.
#44
#45
I too purchased the crimping tool Jesser used. I replaced my battery terminals with the military style and the same eye lugs with all the black/red glue/heat shrink tubing as did Jesser. I was of the opinion soldering was the best but after having done this over the years on vehicles, determined that was not so easy in many situations, so I tried the crimping.
I liked the way it worked on the vehicle and the tool worked just fine. I now have a very solid connection between my batteries and cables. Well worth the money and time and looks very nice.
I liked the way it worked on the vehicle and the tool worked just fine. I now have a very solid connection between my batteries and cables. Well worth the money and time and looks very nice.