A co-worker stopped by my work station and asked if I had a few minutes.

He bought an 04' F350 KR with 75k n the clock a few months ago.

I hooked up my laptop to it and checked it out and the only codes were for EGR issues. Checked it out and it appears to be stealth deleted.

Fast forward to last Friday. He hooks up his toy hauler and heads out with the wife and kids. He gets a mile or so down the road and he blows the plastic charge tube from the inter cooler to the intake. He limps it to hi buddy;s garage. Borrows a car gets the wife and kids to the house and runs to the local SD dealer and picks a new one up and gets back on the road. His buddy scans it and once again the only codes he had were for the EGR.

He gets a few hours away and settled in and due to the weather and him not using a pressure regulator on the TT and blowing a water line on the toilet, his wife makes him pack it up and head home the next morning.

They get about 30 miles down the road and he hears a high pitched whine...then it goes away. He hears it a few more times and pulls over. Truck had no power and started puffing grayish smoke. Then it shuts off a few minutes later and he can't get it started.

I run over after work and check things out. I pulled the following codes:

P0046- Turbo/Super Charger Boost Control Solenoid Circuit Range/Performance
P0299-Turbo / Supercharger Underboost Condition
P0401-exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected
P0470-Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction
P0478-exhaust control valve high
P1102-Mass Air Flow Sensor In Range But Lower Than Expected

He was down 2.5 gallons of oil also. There was also a code for a failed oil pressure sensor.

 

So I setup AE and looked at ICP, FICM SYNCH and a few other things.

Of course his batteries are low on charge.

So the ICP pressure was around 935 to 960 when cranking.

Oil gauge on dash never moved, but the oil housing fills with oil.

FICM synch was present. FLP was 11.5V and FMP was 49.0V. Told him we were done until he charges the batteries and we find out why he isn't reading oil pressure.

So it appears he needs a turbo and other tid bits once we get the no oil pressure figured out.

The down pipe is soaked on the OD as is the mid section of the turbo.

I pulled the air filter and checked end play on the charge side of the turbo. It still spins freely and had .07-.100 end play. I am assuming the bearings went south and the oil went out the exhaust.

 

So can someone point me to what path I need to travel to troubleshoot the no oil pressure. Is the following the logical route?

Replace oil sending unit, see if the gauge shows pressure. If not check that he has voltage to the sensor.

If the sensor fixes it, replace the turbo, plastic pipe with a metal one and go from there.

Any help and input would be appreciated!

 

The turbo (or at least the bearings and maybe the whole center section) is done, max axial end play is supposed to be 0.0036", radial is 0.02". Xtreme Diesel sells a new one for a good price:
Garrett 743250-5024S GT3782VA Stock Replacement Turbocharger

If the oil filter housing is filing then the LPOP is apparently working, the LPO switch can't cause a no-start. It's a one wire idiot switch that only goes to the gauge cluster, the PCM doesn't even see it.

ICP_V and IPR% while cranking?

 

When you replace the turbo you might also want to pull the intercooler and make sure its not full of oil.

Richard

 

My gauge doesn't move until its running and as stated... if it's filling the bowl, it's working. I'd also check the oil that's left, send in a sample for fuel delution (sp?). Mine ate the bearings after it started making oil, I'd check it before it eats a second unless you prove otherwise.

You can check pre-intercooler or post intercooler for oil, no need to pull it. 2.5 gallons will be hard to hide, it will be coated in oil. Most times a bearing or seal in the turbo lets go, its on the exhaust side and just pours smoke. You can see it in the down pipe, it will leave a shine to the inside of the pipe.

And update the turbo drain tube.

 

Sorry for your friends camp trip from he**.

Verify the drain tube hasn't been updated before buying a new one. And the oil feed tube to the turbo while you are there. If someone did a stealth delete, they may have done those items.

I'm surprised this 04 had a plastic tube. This is the first I have seen an 04 with one. What is the build date of the truck.

There was someone on here some time ago that had a no start due to a short on the wiring to oil pressure sensor. If I recall, the short was a few inches down the wire harness.

As for the water pressure regulator for the TT. I just traveled the US and never used one. I used the valve on the spigot to adjust that.

 

I have a 2004 with a build date of 02/04 and mine still has the plastic piping. I need to get the metal one, I just haven't got around to it, sorry for the Hijack OP. Sounds like your "buddy" needs a new turbocharger along with VGT sensor.

 

Looked under the hood of a Harley a couple days ago...plastic pipe, build date March2004.

 

My May 2004 King Ranch came with the metal piping. Strange.

 

it is... my born on Feb 26, 2004 Harley came with a metal pipe. May have been they had left overs and used them up? Different assembly plants?

 

The build date is 5/04.

Update:

He replaced the oil sending unit and still no love.

I went back over to double check something that was bothering me.

We verified again that he has low oil pressure. I didn't hold the check valve down on the initial test.

Hooked up AE again and the only code now is the P0046.

ICP was 935 cranking
ICP desired showed 0. I pulled the IPR plug and it then matched the ICP.

IPR was 14.4
IPV was .25 KOEO and .26 when trying to start.

He also has a burping noise through the air filter. So the next step is a compression test.

I did an injector buzz test and not all the injectors are buzzing as they should.

And from the looks of the wiring harness around the oil/fuel filter housing he may have a wiring issue.

So to recap,

We have LPOP oil, HPOP oil, FICM synch, Cam/Crank signal, Fuel. But we have an intake flutter/light burp. Turbo is kaput.

So a buddy of his is stopping down this weekend and will be doing the compression test. If that comes out ok, they will be pulling the wiring harnesses and going over them.

If the compression test gives us bad news, he will be sending it to a shop that is very reputable and I have used before.

Is there anything else that I am forgetting?

 

Did it have an even crank when turning over? That "Burping noise" really an intake thump, could be he bent a push rod.

 

It does crank evenly and smoothly.

Is it possible to bend a push rod when the turbo goes like his did?

 

If you have a nice even and smooth crank, probably not. You probably just have a bad turbo, seal let go and it's pouring oil down the exhaust. Won't build pressure because the seals gone.

Why the compression test?