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Oil cooler pump. 6.4

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Old 07-23-2017, 09:57 PM
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Oil cooler pump. 6.4

Anyone have any problem with oil cooler pump throwing the wrench light at you?? Dealer says it cools the oil and mine could be clogged a bit.. cost of total job around 8-10 k. And take cab off.

It seems when engine gets hot wrench light comes on cause not cooling oil down properly... it overheated. gauges were very high.. once when I was in full boost towing a ranger up a hill. First time it ever happened.. pulled over for 5 mins than started temp went back normal and finished tow no problem after that cause I kept boost lower! Anyone have this problem or any info thanks
 
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Old 07-24-2017, 08:33 AM
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the oil cooler is a unit that has both oil and coolant running thru it via seperate passage ways.

this unit can clog mostly on the coolant side (if you do not have a coolant filter) or on the oil side (if you do not have a bypass oil filter).

the coolant in the 6.4 is a test every 20K miles and replace as needed. if worn, the particulants in the coolant can drop out of suspension and clog the oil cooler and cabin heater core.

some folks have had success back flushing the coolant side of the oil cooler to remove the sluge.

some folks have also installed a separate true air oil cooler .

if mine were to get clogged, I would go the seperate air oil cooler route until I have a good reason to pull the cab off.
 
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Old 07-24-2017, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by speakerfritz
the oil cooler is a unit that has both oil and coolant running thru it via seperate passage ways.

this unit can clog mostly on the coolant side (if you do not have a coolant filter) or on the oil side (if you do not have a bypass oil filter).

the coolant in the 6.4 is a test every 20K miles and replace as needed. if worn, the particulants in the coolant can drop out of suspension and clog the oil cooler and cabin heater core.

some folks have had success back flushing the coolant side of the oil cooler to remove the sluge.

some folks have also installed a separate true air oil cooler .




if mine were to get clogged, I would go the seperate air oil cooler route until I have a good reason to pull the cab off.
Great info spearkerfritz ty for your reply....

Is the coolant filter easy to access? Prolly hasn't been changed... is there a video or link to detail about back flushing the coolant pump. Or link/ video to installing new air cooler? How much in cost if you don't mind me asking.. ty
 
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Old 07-24-2017, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by _SUP3RSTROK3R_
Great info spearkerfritz ty for your reply....

Is the coolant filter easy to access? Prolly hasn't been changed... is there a video or link to detail about back flushing the coolant pump. Or link/ video to installing new air cooler? How much in cost if you don't mind me asking.. ty
It's not the "coolant pump" that gets clogged. It's the actual oil cooler that has small passages for coolant and for oil.

https://www.perfdiesel.com/assets/im...4OILCOOLER.jpg

If you have a bad oil cooler, then this is a CAB OFF repair. Even with the CAB off, you have to remove both turbos and a plethora of other things to get down to the oil cooler, very hard repair.
 
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Old 07-24-2017, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Tofan
If you have a bad oil cooler, then this is a CAB OFF repair.
Anything can be done with the cab-on; there's a Ford procedure for cab-on oil cooler repair. It's a question of how long those six little turbo inlet bolts take if they round off though. The specialty tool is not well regarded for the task, they break pretty easily:
Snap-on Inc. 3/8"-drive Turbo Inlet Pipe Socket, No. S6210 in Specialty Tools

This is the cab-on engine removal procedure, you would have to do 80+% of this work to get to the oil cooler, most of the first 138 steps:
 
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Old 07-24-2017, 07:29 PM
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Old 07-25-2017, 09:16 PM
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*bump thread***
 
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Old 07-25-2017, 09:18 PM
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Old 07-25-2017, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by speakerfritz
the oil cooler is a unit that has both oil and coolant running thru it via seperate passage ways.

this unit can clog mostly on the coolant side (if you do not have a coolant filter) or on the oil side (if you do not have a bypass oil filter).

the coolant in the 6.4 is a test every 20K miles and replace as needed. if worn, the particulants in the coolant can drop out of suspension and clog the oil cooler and cabin heater core.

some folks have had success back flushing the coolant side of the oil cooler to remove the sluge.

some folks have also installed a separate true air oil cooler .

if mine were to get clogged, I would go the seperate air oil cooler route until I have a good reason to pull the cab off.
Great info is there a link or thread going through back flushing coolant side of oil cooler
 
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Old 07-25-2017, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by texastech_diesel
Anything can be done with the cab-on; there's a Ford procedure for cab-on oil cooler repair. It's a question of how long those six little turbo inlet bolts take if they round off though. The specialty tool is not well regarded for the task, they break pretty easily:
Snap-on Inc. 3/8"-drive Turbo Inlet Pipe Socket, No. S6210 in Specialty Tools

This is the cab-on engine removal procedure, you would have to do 80+% of this work to get to the oil cooler, most of the first 138 steps:
Ok repair at cost probly around 6-10k I bet
 
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