Opinions on injector condition
#1
Opinions on injector condition
I noticed oil in my fuel bowl so I ordered a full set of injector o-rings and ipr 0-rings. I've removed the injectors today and now I'm thinking I may just need to replace my injectors since I have 356,000 miles. The truck has always been serviced regularly and as far as I know these are the originals. I didn't do any injector tests before I took them out because I don't have any misses or stumbling, just tend to be low on power. I know I can't know the real condition without a complete test, but my gut is telling me that I would be better off just getting a set of reman and getting another 300K out of them. I should also mention that I recently switched to Synthetic oil because the NAPA guys gave me a super deal on it. The fuel filter was a little black before and now it's black.
Injector #1
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1OS...exTweHt6GhNsGA
Injector #8
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DGZ...ew?usp=sharing
Driver Side
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DX...Ck_6B0bpYRYElQ
Passenger Side
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1gV...PiHbGVLLvYGnww
Injector #1
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1OS...exTweHt6GhNsGA
Injector #8
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DGZ...ew?usp=sharing
Driver Side
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DX...Ck_6B0bpYRYElQ
Passenger Side
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1gV...PiHbGVLLvYGnww
#2
In my experience synthetic oils flow better. One manifestation of this is increased oil leaks, including more leakage past iffy o rings. People look at me funny for saying synth oils leak more but hey, I believe my eyes. So I'd think the increased oil contamination on your fuel filter is due to switching to synthetic.
Synth oil also allows tired old injectors a bit more life as worn poppet valves are more free to operate, especially when cold. If you did not have cold starting issues on dino oil that suggests your injectors are not worn out. New o rings and get on down the road.
In your shoes (and if you can afford the down time) I'd have your own injectors rebuilt by a known specialist, like Rosewood. Generic rebuilds from NAPA or whatever have an uneven rep. Make that very uneven. Using your own as cores takes some variables out of the equation. A set of fresh quality rebuilds and you're good for many miles ahead.
If you have the coin and don't mind straying from the canon of Henry Ford, a brand new set of Alliant single shot AC injectors plus a mild tune on your PCM will vastly increase your grin factor and towing prowess. No downside except the cost of injectors and the tune.
Synth oil also allows tired old injectors a bit more life as worn poppet valves are more free to operate, especially when cold. If you did not have cold starting issues on dino oil that suggests your injectors are not worn out. New o rings and get on down the road.
In your shoes (and if you can afford the down time) I'd have your own injectors rebuilt by a known specialist, like Rosewood. Generic rebuilds from NAPA or whatever have an uneven rep. Make that very uneven. Using your own as cores takes some variables out of the equation. A set of fresh quality rebuilds and you're good for many miles ahead.
If you have the coin and don't mind straying from the canon of Henry Ford, a brand new set of Alliant single shot AC injectors plus a mild tune on your PCM will vastly increase your grin factor and towing prowess. No downside except the cost of injectors and the tune.
#3
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Asheville-where weird is
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^^^This^^^
Absolutely sound advice. If they were still cranking easily last winter on dino oil then they probably still have life left in them.
I would like to add P.I.S. - Performance Injection Systems to list of rebuilders.
Based upon the way a few of those injectors look, I would pressure test your coolant system and see if you have any leakage around the injector cups prior to placing the injectors back in those holes.
Absolutely sound advice. If they were still cranking easily last winter on dino oil then they probably still have life left in them.
I would like to add P.I.S. - Performance Injection Systems to list of rebuilders.
Based upon the way a few of those injectors look, I would pressure test your coolant system and see if you have any leakage around the injector cups prior to placing the injectors back in those holes.
#4
In my experience synthetic oils flow better. One manifestation of this is increased oil leaks, including more leakage past iffy o rings. People look at me funny for saying synth oils leak more but hey, I believe my eyes. So I'd think the increased oil contamination on your fuel filter is due to switching to synthetic.
I expected leaks switching to synthetic because the molecule is smaller and I understand that the detergents will clear out any sludge.
I forgot to mention that I have also had to crank it longer to get to start especially when warm. My old truck had that issue and it was the IPR O-rings.
Synth oil also allows tired old injectors a bit more life as worn poppet valves are more free to operate, especially when cold. If you did not have cold starting issues on dino oil that suggests your injectors are not worn out. New o rings and get on down the road.
In your shoes (and if you can afford the down time) I'd have your own injectors rebuilt by a known specialist, like Rosewood. Generic rebuilds from NAPA or whatever have an uneven rep. Make that very uneven. Using your own as cores takes some variables out of the equation. A set of fresh quality rebuilds and you're good for many miles ahead.
I was looking at the reman by Full Force. Seems like a fair price.
If you have the coin and don't mind straying from the canon of Henry Ford, a brand new set of Alliant single shot AC injectors plus a mild tune on your PCM will vastly increase your grin factor and towing prowess. No downside except the cost of injectors and the tune.
I expected leaks switching to synthetic because the molecule is smaller and I understand that the detergents will clear out any sludge.
I forgot to mention that I have also had to crank it longer to get to start especially when warm. My old truck had that issue and it was the IPR O-rings.
Synth oil also allows tired old injectors a bit more life as worn poppet valves are more free to operate, especially when cold. If you did not have cold starting issues on dino oil that suggests your injectors are not worn out. New o rings and get on down the road.
In your shoes (and if you can afford the down time) I'd have your own injectors rebuilt by a known specialist, like Rosewood. Generic rebuilds from NAPA or whatever have an uneven rep. Make that very uneven. Using your own as cores takes some variables out of the equation. A set of fresh quality rebuilds and you're good for many miles ahead.
I was looking at the reman by Full Force. Seems like a fair price.
If you have the coin and don't mind straying from the canon of Henry Ford, a brand new set of Alliant single shot AC injectors plus a mild tune on your PCM will vastly increase your grin factor and towing prowess. No downside except the cost of injectors and the tune.
#5
^^^This^^^
Absolutely sound advice. If they were still cranking easily last winter on dino oil then they probably still have life left in them.
I would like to add P.I.S. - Performance Injection Systems to list of rebuilders.
I will look into them.
Based upon the way a few of those injectors look, I would pressure test my coolant system and see if you have any leakage around the injector cups prior to placing the injectors back in those holes.
Absolutely sound advice. If they were still cranking easily last winter on dino oil then they probably still have life left in them.
I would like to add P.I.S. - Performance Injection Systems to list of rebuilders.
I will look into them.
Based upon the way a few of those injectors look, I would pressure test my coolant system and see if you have any leakage around the injector cups prior to placing the injectors back in those holes.
#6
I have read where a couple of the high mileage guys here say that the original injectors will last into 500,000 miles, IF they have had good care. Some replaced at 350,000 miles and did not see any difference in performance, which seems to indicate that the original injectors were still in good condition. The orings should fail before the injectors, in a perfect world.
#7
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Asheville-where weird is
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Test from Tugly:
Coolant: Pull the small tube off the right side of the degas bottle. Shove a pen or a bolt in the hose and use the hose clamp on the tube to seal it. Using a rubber-tipped blower nozzle, puff up the open hole until the degas cap vents (you'll here a noise you should be familiar with for future reference). You'll then be about 14-15 PSI in the coolant.
Now, I don't put injectors back in without conducting the test. Takes about 5 mins. on a slow day.
Peace of mind....
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#9
I didn't have fuel in the coolant either when I changed injectors in the E99 . I did have a bit of rust on two of the injectors. I did the following test and found that I had a very, very slow leak into two cups...early stage of death on both.
Test from Tugly:
Coolant: Pull the small tube off the right side of the degas bottle. Shove a pen or a bolt in the hose and use the hose clamp on the tube to seal it. Using a rubber-tipped blower nozzle, puff up the open hole until the degas cap vents (you'll here a noise you should be familiar with for future reference). You'll then be about 14-15 PSI in the coolant.
Now, I don't put injectors back in without conducting the test. Takes about 5 mins. on a slow day.
Peace of mind....
Test from Tugly:
Coolant: Pull the small tube off the right side of the degas bottle. Shove a pen or a bolt in the hose and use the hose clamp on the tube to seal it. Using a rubber-tipped blower nozzle, puff up the open hole until the degas cap vents (you'll here a noise you should be familiar with for future reference). You'll then be about 14-15 PSI in the coolant.
Now, I don't put injectors back in without conducting the test. Takes about 5 mins. on a slow day.
Peace of mind....
#10
I'm doing injectors right now at 305K. No issues with injectors (easy start, no smoke, calm idle) but O-rings were on the way out. Decided to replace the injectors but not the cups. Saw coolant in most of the cups after a week of sitting after I pulled the injectors so decided on all new cups. When I pulled the cups out there was no sealant on the upper portion of the cup...on any of them (original cups from the assembly line).
#12
So I did the pressure test and I can't see any signs of the cups leaking. I'm thinking at this point I am going to do new O-rings with my old injectors. I figure now I know how to do it and later if I decide to go back after the injector cups I'll plan further out to keep the truck out of commission and just take it easy when it's not so blazing hot. Maybe by then I can do Stage 1's with a tune. I'll also need to rent the injector cup tool from Riffraff, which will take just too much time right now.
The good thing now is that I'm getting the engine nice and clean. Our shop at work has a parts washer that makes it so much easier.
I also discovered that I probably have an exhaust manifold leak by the number 7 piston. So there's another project. Might as well do bellowed up pipes when I go after the manifolds.
The good thing now is that I'm getting the engine nice and clean. Our shop at work has a parts washer that makes it so much easier.
I also discovered that I probably have an exhaust manifold leak by the number 7 piston. So there's another project. Might as well do bellowed up pipes when I go after the manifolds.
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