I'm back with the 85 f-250 with the 6.9. And I used my last can of r12 in the truck and it wasn't enough to make a difference. I've heard that the r12 cost like $60 dollars a can now. And I've heard about the conversion kits and everything. I was just wandering if there was a better way to do it.

I know now you have to change all of the o-rings and the oil. But do you need to change the drier? And is there anything else that I need to change?

Thanks and have a nice day

 

Go look into "Freeze 12" which may or may not be around. See how it works, and what it is, and look into going that route instead - it's a drop-in replacement.

You *can* do a R134a conversion, but you definitely have to use POE oil(NOT PAG!!!), clean the system etc. Lots of expense for a product that is a good 20% /less/ efficient.

Edit:
Here's another topic you might be interested in looking through:
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/i...m-up-ac.80566/
Obviously, I can't officially /recommend/ doing this due to EPA rules, but he seemed to have luck with it.

 

I did r134 conversions and it was easy. Blows nice but if i had to go back and do one thing different that would be get a variable orifice tube.

 

There are commercial refrigerants out there that are already propane and isobutane pre mixed.

It's sold as a drop in replacement from companies like red tek and enviro safe, it's a few bucks cheaper than 134,

I tried it, it does blow colder but my compressors a little weak so I didn't get the whole blow ice thing, but it definitely functioned really similar to regular freon.

It's not for the faint of heart though and is flammable as hell. But I think mine only has a little over a pound of the stuff in it. It has a pine sol sent to it so if it ever starts to leak you will know it.

I purchased mine from a seller called alliance automotive on eBay for 51$ and change for a case of 12 enviro safe. They ship it with 2 day priority for free too. I've had really good luck with their customer service as well. Red tek 12a is a little but higher.

If anyone tries this stuff follow the directions!!!! There's a reason they want you to charge it with the can upside down aka straight liquid

 

Huh... what's the reasoning?
If you are going into the 'low' side(with the AC compressor running), the pressure differential should be enough to 'suck' it out of the can, even pulling off vapor.

It'll charge more quickly sucking liquid, but even with vapor it shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes...

How would you install one of these in our trucks? Any P/Ns?

 

Following just for info. Unfortunately my compressor is shot, and i cannot find a reman R12 compressor (whatever the difference is) We have the better part of a pallet of the good ol' R12. Im getting ready to buy all the parts now to do a full AC repair. Hoses and o-rings are shot with the compressor. Already read to get the variable orifice tube. Is there anything else that should be changed? Some say to get a larger heat echanger i thought?

 

If you don't charge with liquid it will not pull all of it out of the can, you can drain the can to zero psi vapor wise and there will still be liquid in the can....

I know this doesn't sound possible compared to 134 or 12 but it is, charging instructions for r-290 which is refrigerant refined propane, is to charge with straight liquid as well.

They'll teach you all of this of you ever get a licence, it's a cheap money maker for side gigs.

I would not recommend a variable orfice. They are junk imho. You can upgrade the condenser to a 92-97 if you wish, but this is mainly a thing to help 134 work better in a 80-91 truck.

Compressors are also the same minus the seals. R134a is a smaller molecule so it leaks through r12 seals and single barrier hoses. Snag whatever compressor they make and change your lines and vacuum to at least 20hg, let it sit for 30min-1hr and if it doesn't move your leak free. Leaks show up 10x easier under vacuum.

 

Uh... Something's wrong there.
If you drop the pressure below the vapor pressure of a liquid(say, propane), the liquid will boil. AKA, turn into a gas(vapor).
How do you think a barbecue tank works?
The tank is full of liquid, but you are pulling vapor from the /top/ of the tank.
As you use the vapor, liquid boils becoming the next vapor that you use.

(it's also endothermic to do this, which is why the tank becomes cold when you use a lot of propane... especially noticeable when it's cold outside.)
(this is also why when you run a larger engine off a tank, you typically draw off liquid and use a separate, heated vaporizer, lest the tank freeze up and you stop getting any vapor).

Unless the can in your hand is freezing, the heat from the air will provide the energy needed to vaporize it.

Cans of R134A do the same thing - hook it up to the low side and leave the can upright. It'll get cold quickly as the vapor is drawn off and the liquid inside vaporizes.


Edit - off topic, but I thought I'd throw this out here:
You can find a FS10 compressor that fits a 92-94(and maby other years) IDI on ford Explorers and Rangers in the same year-range.
Some of them have the electrical connector rotated 90 degrees (on "top" vs on the "left side" of the compressor) - you can take the clutch/coil off and rotate it, OR just pull on the harness a bit, there's enough slack to use it as-is.
Useful when a new compressor is $200+ and a JY compressor is $20.

 

all 92-97 condensers are the same?

 

Do y'all think I will need to change the drier?

 

When you use a barbecue tank your not completely emptying it within a few minutes so yes the liquid can boil back into vapor as it has adequate time, but unless you care to carry around a tub of hot water or some way to keep the can warm it's much easier to just charge it by liquid. Propane will get colder quicker then 134 or 12 will so it can be a real pain with the can freezing up in the middle of charging.

I always charge by liquid and have never had a problem, even r134a your supposed to charge shaking the can back and forth to give semi liquid.

I was just sharing tips so you wouldn't lose half a can if you ever try the stuff.

 

OK, that makes sense then. That's a totally reasonable explanation there - that you can(provided enough heat), but why would you /want/ to.
And of course, if you /do/ get the can to freeze up doing it 'wrong', just let it 'thaw', flip it over and keep going.


Going to 134A? Definitely yes. Ester oil soaks up moisture quickly, so you definitely need a good drier.

 

Somewhere in 93 they went to the parallel/crossflow condenser. 94+ will have it no matter what. A 92 would still have the r12 style.

I know they physically mount the same, I put one in my 85, I had to trim it up a little on the sheet metal brace for the line on each side and had to build an adapter for the passenger side line since I don't have the newer line going to my orifice tube on the way to the evap. I think 87-newer it's a direct fit.

The evaporaters were different in some r134 applications but not all, I honestly haven't looked when it comes to ford, but your condenser is where the rubber really meets the road.

They had to amp up the thermal transfer when they went to r134a because the refrigerant itself is no where near as good as r12.

If your going to put r12 in yours then there's no need to stray away from any of the factory parts. Put a blue orfice tube in it and enjoy the cold air!

The only time I would reccomend a condensor change is when retrofitting to r134a or when running r290 as its straight propane, the reason the r12a mixes have butane is to lower head pressure to be within spec for a r12/r134a system. Some of the newer r134a systems can handle crazy high side pressure though. I'm talking 350+psi

 

Ya lost me, but i just bought a new "everything" except condenser and evaporator. Have a blue orifice tube, and an auto adjusting. The AC in this pickup used to be amazing, like 37* air, thats what i want when im done. Why does everyone say get an auto orifice tube? What blend, or refrigerant is going to work best for me? We have (or had) a bunch of R12, but my aunt has hi-graded everything around the shop since my dad passed, so if she knows what it is, its probably gone.

 

you can still buy R-12 on evil bay for $20 per can.
i buy it from a dealer in Florida for $8 per can, but i have an EPA certificate.