So a new problem has shown itself with my truck now. After driving my truck back from the window tint place, my truck started abruptly cutting out stalling sometimes. It was fine almost the whole way back (highway and city driving), but suddenly shut off on the highway. I pushed the clutch in and restarted it, but it managed to cut out a few times later until I slowed down and got off the highway.

I pulled over and drove slowly through residential roads and nothing seemed wrong. Upon driving on the main roads (40 to 45mph) my truck cut out some more. It seemed to cut out when I'd be around 40mph, or if I hit heavy bumps.

When the truck would cut out:
- It felt like it stalled out
- I had no pedal response (like the engine was off)
- the wait to start light would come on
- the engine did NOT shut off (except 2 times out of roughly 10 or 15 times on the way back)
- when the rpms fell to idle range, it seemed back to normal

Things that I've read could cause something like this:
- bad cps
- bad ipr
- bad icp
- chip issues
- low oil


I checked my chip, and it seems tight in there so I'm not sure if it would cause the problem.

The cps is fairly new from Ford.

I pulled codes and nothing new came up (the ebpv is unplugged so that code has been present).



What do you guys think I should check next? I have the aeroforce gauge, so I can monitor icp and ipr if needed.

Could a bad ground or bad alternator (I think the charging has been low from around 12.0 to 13.2) lead yo these issues?

I can throw in a spare IDM or my old CPS if I need to. What do you guys think? It seems weird that the truck didn't shut off, but could that have been because the truck was moving and I was holding in the clutch, then releasing it?

 

Sounds like loose electrical.

 

Yeah that's what I was thinking too, I just have to figure out what it could be doing that. The tint place replaced me tailgate window, and both door windows so they wouldn't really be near many wires as far as I know.

I'll try and peek around though. It definitely feels like it's and electrical thing though.

 

When you didn't have any throttle response was the engine running? Might be your IVS on the pedal?

 

I was thinking just that. The engine does still run, and I lose throttle response unless I lift my foot off the pedal and press it back again. However, the 'wait to start' light also comes on when this happens, and sometimes the check engine light comes on/flashes during the cutting out. There are no codes that come up however. I have a spare pedal with the sensor sitting in the back of my Camaro so I may swap that out and hope for the best.

I checked over wires and connections this morning before driving home (I'm watching someones house about 15 miles away) and everything seemed fine.

My truck didn't act up for about the first 10 minutes of driving with both city/highway driving.

It then started to cut out again more and more on the highway home. It did stall out once when I was slowing down quickly to a stop, but otherwise the engine was seemingly running the whole time.

When coasting in neutral about 10mph down some hills near my house, I was keeping the throttle pressed in to see what would happen. My rpms would suddenly drop down to idle with the pedal pressed in, and no amount of pressing the pedal did anything until I lifted up and pressed again. However, the 'wait to start' light and check engine light didn't come on when the engine "cut out" on me while rolling in neutral, only when I'm in gear with the pedal pressed in.




Would this be a pretty good indicator of that sensor going bad? Or could it be something else like the IDM or some other computer component losing connection, which reset the pedal position until it's released?

Sometimes when it cuts out, the engine sounds like it's quickly trying to get back to where it was, but then stops (at least goes back to idle if it doesn't stall out until I reset the pedal position.) I'm not sure how the IVS sends a signal to the PCM/IDM. I suppose if it's acting like the pedal position is 0, then something like 30 for a split second, then back to 0, maybe the engine would act up.

 

I just read a thread on here where someone had the identical problem to me with a super duty truck though. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...erd-fixed.html Their fix was unhooking the battery and PCM connections and rehooking them up...

I'll look into the pedal switch, but also unhook my PCM and battery connections.

I didn't have this problem until I took the truck to the window place. They may have unhooked my batteries during the window changing process.

 

You may want to double check your battery connections. If they removed them to work on the windows then they may not have gotten them tight upon installation

 

That was my thought too.

 

Yeah I checked them and the drivers side ground was loose where the cable connects to the terminal (maybe not from them since you woudont remove the terminal/connector off the cable) so I tightened that down good. I then also snugged up the bolt to the pcm.

Unfortunately, the issue still happened so that wasn't quite it. I have some time now so I'm going to check out those connections again and also swap out my pedals.

 

Hmm well I'm off to check again. I found the passenger side battery cable to engine block connection was loose, so I tightened that up. I also undid all the connections to the battery and re-tightened them, as well as undo the PCM connection and then tighten that as well as the IDM bolt up.

Oh, and I also swapped out my pedal assembly with the one I pulled from the truck I got the replacement motor from. I'm hoping this does the trick!

 

Good luck!

 

Thanks! Either fixing the loose ground or swapping the pedal assembly seemed to have cured the issue so that's a relief!

I hope it was just the ground because I'll need that other pedal assembly later down the road but not for a while!

 

I hope all stays good!

 

Interesting to read this so close to my issue. Was towing a trailer home the other day and my truck died on the highway while idling and making a right lane change. I put it in neutral and fired it back up, put it back in drive and just hoped it would fix itself. 10 minutes later same thing. Let off the pedal to make a lane change to the right and when I completed the turn I noticed the wheel was hard to steer again. No RPMs - restarted the engine while rolling on the highway and got home.

Next day I kept it in tow tune as I've never experienced this before. While driving I again noticed that while idling and coasting down the road I saw the RPMs bouncing to 2-300 and back up to 600, then it died. Again fired right back up. I put it in my performance tune, and it's been fine ever since. Even towed my trailer in performance setting with no issues.

I"m a bit worried as I have a 1400 mile round trip coming up this week with my two car trailer. I ordered a CPS to have as a back up just incase, but having a truck die out with no warning especially if I need to stop quickly is a bit scary. Ever since I've taken it out of "tow" tune its been fine. I love the look of these old trucks, but electical gremlins are a pain. I missed a road trip earlier in the summer chasing a ABS light that was wreaking havoc. (fried wire in the frame rail after the VSS Pigtail. Hopefully its a chip/programming thing? Time will tell. Just installed water/meth so I'll put some test miles on it and see if it dies out again.

 

Let us know Bill how the water/meth works, safe travels!