original paint washing tips?
#1
09-06-2003, 12:28 PM
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blaine Minnesota
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
original paint washing tips?
The other day I ran my 65 f250 through the car wash.
The truck has the original paint(green)
The paint looks like its coming off. Im guessing the paints gotten soft over the years.
So I m looking for some washing tips and waxing tips on this old
horse.( Besides a new paint job)
thanks in advance , Tim
#2
09-06-2003, 01:46 PM
Posting Guru
original paint washing tips?
Tim,FBp
Since I can't see your actual paint & it's condition either, I can't really tell you to do this. That said, I've done this several times in the right circumstances. Under wrong conditions this will be bad advice, but under right conditions it can be great advice. . . .
Older enamels have a tendency to oxidize with age if not cared for & protected over their life span. As a result a powdery type residue can appear and the finish becomes dull and chalky.
If a qualified, automotive, painter determines your F 250 has enough good paint left that it can be painted over, using its' paint as a base, without stripping, etc. then try this. However if no qualified painter makes that evaluation DO NOT TRY THIS.
I use different cleansers, depending on severity of oxidation, a true assessment of paint still there and "good" etc. Bon Ami's the least abrasive & Comet is about most abrasive (I'll use).
I "wash" vehicle thoroughly by hand, 1 panel/section at a time. I start at botom, working to top. Use a SOFT wash cloth and enough cleanser to remove oxidized outer layer exposing solid swirly/scratchy paint underneath. Rinse thoroughly each time with clean, clear water. When it is done, dry it off with either an air blow gun, dry towel, or artificial chamois.
Next use a good anti-swirl, or swirl remover like Maguires, and work/ buff each panel out. Remember your finish/paint is raw & open until you finish this project. After you polish panels to your satisfaction, you need to make a choice, either finish it by sealing & waxing it with premium sealing wax, or do next panel polishing it out & sealing/ waxing all of it before using it..
Either way I strongly suggest you finish whole multi step deal before you start driving it and exposing it to the elements.
Last time. . . . If you are not certain about underlying finish, or if you can not get a qualified, expert opinion on it. Do Not do this until you do get one.
I've been building, restoring, fabricating, & painting Rods & Truck Rods for a long time. I may have enough experience & knowledge to pull a lot of stuff off some other people can't. Never the less I use this technique a couple times a year it seems. If it's all "right" & I'm sure of that, it works great. If not I could be looking at promer, or worst case scenario, bare metal. . . . Ac Qui ?
FBp
Since I can't see your actual paint & it's condition either, I can't really tell you to do this. That said, I've done this several times in the right circumstances. Under wrong conditions this will be bad advice, but under right conditions it can be great advice. . . .
Older enamels have a tendency to oxidize with age if not cared for & protected over their life span. As a result a powdery type residue can appear and the finish becomes dull and chalky.
If a qualified, automotive, painter determines your F 250 has enough good paint left that it can be painted over, using its' paint as a base, without stripping, etc. then try this. However if no qualified painter makes that evaluation DO NOT TRY THIS.
I use different cleansers, depending on severity of oxidation, a true assessment of paint still there and "good" etc. Bon Ami's the least abrasive & Comet is about most abrasive (I'll use).
I "wash" vehicle thoroughly by hand, 1 panel/section at a time. I start at botom, working to top. Use a SOFT wash cloth and enough cleanser to remove oxidized outer layer exposing solid swirly/scratchy paint underneath. Rinse thoroughly each time with clean, clear water. When it is done, dry it off with either an air blow gun, dry towel, or artificial chamois.
Next use a good anti-swirl, or swirl remover like Maguires, and work/ buff each panel out. Remember your finish/paint is raw & open until you finish this project. After you polish panels to your satisfaction, you need to make a choice, either finish it by sealing & waxing it with premium sealing wax, or do next panel polishing it out & sealing/ waxing all of it before using it..
Either way I strongly suggest you finish whole multi step deal before you start driving it and exposing it to the elements.
Last time. . . . If you are not certain about underlying finish, or if you can not get a qualified, expert opinion on it. Do Not do this until you do get one.
I've been building, restoring, fabricating, & painting Rods & Truck Rods for a long time. I may have enough experience & knowledge to pull a lot of stuff off some other people can't. Never the less I use this technique a couple times a year it seems. If it's all "right" & I'm sure of that, it works great. If not I could be looking at promer, or worst case scenario, bare metal. . . . Ac Qui ?
FBp
