Coolant Temp Overheating Issues on 6.7L
#46
What was over heating?
Engine Oil, Coolant, Tranny?
At 248° I suspect you are referring to the Engine Oil. I wonder if there is an larger after market Oil cooler?
It's been a very hot summer. But I have not seen any over heating with my 2015 SRW truck and I've pulled some 16,000 lbs loads up a bunch of 7% and 8% grades.
Good luck on your research
Engine Oil, Coolant, Tranny?
At 248° I suspect you are referring to the Engine Oil. I wonder if there is an larger after market Oil cooler?
It's been a very hot summer. But I have not seen any over heating with my 2015 SRW truck and I've pulled some 16,000 lbs loads up a bunch of 7% and 8% grades.
Good luck on your research
#47
my truck is doing the same thing on 4 separate occasions probably a dozen times got the message Engine coolant over temperature. Dealer had truck for 2 weeks couldn’t figure it out . Afraid to take it back to dealer since they’ll just have it for 2 more weeks or worse but also afraid to go on any trips . Ford has to know about this I personally think it’s a programming clutch fan issue . My 2015 on the same trips same location the clutch fan never shutoff, the 2017 seems to shutoff before it’s necessary and then starts back up too late. Ford didn’t even seem to want to listen . Further they never changed the coolant or flushed the system which to me seems would’ve been cheap insurance and worth the inspection given it’s a brand new truck you just never know what could’ve been in there . * also my elevations were under 6k ft above sea level.
Most here don't have this issue, and I actually don't either except for that one trip out West with extremely high elevation grade climbs with outside ambient's reaching near 100*F.
I've also pulled down in (and through) the Great Smoky Mtns with not even a hint of warnings. Cooler temps and not nearly those killer out West grades. Hmmm. Well, I have a planned trip there again the 1st of May, so we'll see again very soon.
My fan (clutch) is definitely kicking in, but as you said, it may be doing it a tad too late. I'm going from memory like 7 Mos. ago of course, but I did hear the additional noise that the fan makes when kicking in and it did seem like it was very close to the over-heating indicator coming on. As far as gear dropping goes, in my instances of limp mode, my gears were dropped quickly and automatically to low gears, like 3rd gear on some grades. The engine was winding away well before any overheat warnings or the eventual limp mode ordeal. So gear dropping w the tranny was excellent and early enough. I was in 'Tow Mode' of course which drops gears much more quicker than normal mode.
So maybe you hit the nail on the head with the fan not kicking in soon enough!?!?!?!?!
Hopefully Ford will address this matter. If you start a letter to address this, count me in on endorsing it w you.
#48
Most, or at least a lot of, class 8 trucks have a switch on the dash to turn the fan on whenever the driver wants. This would probably be of benefit in the OP’s case. You could turn on the fan when you see a big climb coming to “precool” the coolant. Would be interesting to see how much this would help. I assume that all the manufacturers do this at some point during test on new upcoming models to determine when the fan should come on and then just program that in.
#49
Most, or at least a lot of, class 8 trucks have a switch on the dash to turn the fan on whenever the driver wants. This would probably be of benefit in the OP’s case. You could turn on the fan when you see a big climb coming to “precool” the coolant. Would be interesting to see how much this would help. I assume that all the manufacturers do this at some point during test on new upcoming models to determine when the fan should come on and then just program that in.
But I don't see Ford doing that. How about a simple software (reflash) that would kick-in this fan clutch sooner when in Tow Mode?
I also understand the theory of not wanting this, as the fan-on when kicked in does (and is factually reported as) more in-efficient (fuel wise). But how about just in Tow Mode?.... for us heavy towers, that just may be the answer. TBC.......
#50
1. Water wetter is a surfactant, (soap) and reduces surface tension of the water. I believe it is a very marginal improvement, if any. And I don't know if it might promote cavitation erosion in a diesel.
2. At high elevation, the mass airflow through the radiator is reduced, so you transfer less BTU's for a given temperature delta.
3. Living and racing moto at 7,000' elevation (plus up to 13,000' and down near sea level) along with having been towing heavy for 3+ decades, I have learned that the greatest challenge to cooling is at high elevation, slow speeds, heavy loads..... and ambient air temperature is not a large factor.
4. While I have abandoned modern diesels, I did encounter, once, the Ford overtemp, reduced power mode, while towing close to my max GCWR at 10,000+ feet elevation in Colorado while at WOT for 25 minutes up a 10% grade with the engine running at 6,000 rpm on my 6.2L 2011 F350.
5. I keep my vehicles completely stock, both engine ECM programming and no modifications to the front end that could inhibit airflow.
So, I would encourage you to:
1) Clean the AC condenser and radiator fins really well without damaging them. Including back blowing the radiator and condenser from the fan side with high pressure air and water. This was the cause of my overheat as mentioned in #4 above. I have never had an issue since this original problem over 100,000 miles ago. I now regularly clean my radiator and condenser and PS cooler.
2) Insure you don't have a problem with your cooling system as mentioned above, rad caps, thermostat, constricted hoses,....
3) If you are headed in to tough cooling conditions, turn off the A/C, enjoy the outdoors for a bit of the climb. And if you are still overheating, crank the inside heat up and use the heater core as auxiliary cooling capacity. Tell your occupants that you are training for Bickram hot yoga!
Cheers!
2. At high elevation, the mass airflow through the radiator is reduced, so you transfer less BTU's for a given temperature delta.
3. Living and racing moto at 7,000' elevation (plus up to 13,000' and down near sea level) along with having been towing heavy for 3+ decades, I have learned that the greatest challenge to cooling is at high elevation, slow speeds, heavy loads..... and ambient air temperature is not a large factor.
4. While I have abandoned modern diesels, I did encounter, once, the Ford overtemp, reduced power mode, while towing close to my max GCWR at 10,000+ feet elevation in Colorado while at WOT for 25 minutes up a 10% grade with the engine running at 6,000 rpm on my 6.2L 2011 F350.
5. I keep my vehicles completely stock, both engine ECM programming and no modifications to the front end that could inhibit airflow.
So, I would encourage you to:
1) Clean the AC condenser and radiator fins really well without damaging them. Including back blowing the radiator and condenser from the fan side with high pressure air and water. This was the cause of my overheat as mentioned in #4 above. I have never had an issue since this original problem over 100,000 miles ago. I now regularly clean my radiator and condenser and PS cooler.
2) Insure you don't have a problem with your cooling system as mentioned above, rad caps, thermostat, constricted hoses,....
3) If you are headed in to tough cooling conditions, turn off the A/C, enjoy the outdoors for a bit of the climb. And if you are still overheating, crank the inside heat up and use the heater core as auxiliary cooling capacity. Tell your occupants that you are training for Bickram hot yoga!
Cheers!
#51
Having this switch would be helpful, yes.
But I don't see Ford doing that. How about a simple software (reflash) that would kick-in this fan clutch sooner when in Tow Mode?
I also understand the theory of not wanting this, as the fan-on when kicked in does (and is factually reported as) more in-efficient (fuel wise). But how about just in Tow Mode?.... for us heavy towers, that just may be the answer. TBC.......
But I don't see Ford doing that. How about a simple software (reflash) that would kick-in this fan clutch sooner when in Tow Mode?
I also understand the theory of not wanting this, as the fan-on when kicked in does (and is factually reported as) more in-efficient (fuel wise). But how about just in Tow Mode?.... for us heavy towers, that just may be the answer. TBC.......
I wonder if it could be water pump related?
A few of us have had ours replaced, but the general symptom was leaking coolant, not necessarily temp warnings.
#52
I agree that setting the cabin heater to max can help rapidly lower coolant temp in an overheat situation. I also endorse cleaning your radiators, etc...but on a 2017 truck this is not likely to be the problem unless you drive through cornfields with your truck or something similar.
Ford has tested and retested, including the Davis Dam run in 100F weather. The fan is electronically clutched, and designed to stay off for as long as possible to reduce fuel consumption and maximize available horsepower. However, when fully engaged it should be capable of providing enough cooling capacity even if it comes on "late."
The engine has several strategies to overcome an overheat situation. I believe the A/C will automatically shut down when coolant temp approaches overheating; the transmission will drop to a lower gear both to reduce effort needed to move the load uphill and increase the RPM of the water pumps. Fueling strategy is also key; significantly more fuel should be used to lower cylinder temps. An active regeneration would actually help reduce cylinder temps thanks to fuel being injected but not compressed.
My take is that if you are towing within your rated limits the truck should handle it without issue. If it doesn't, something is wrong with your truck.
Ford has tested and retested, including the Davis Dam run in 100F weather. The fan is electronically clutched, and designed to stay off for as long as possible to reduce fuel consumption and maximize available horsepower. However, when fully engaged it should be capable of providing enough cooling capacity even if it comes on "late."
The engine has several strategies to overcome an overheat situation. I believe the A/C will automatically shut down when coolant temp approaches overheating; the transmission will drop to a lower gear both to reduce effort needed to move the load uphill and increase the RPM of the water pumps. Fueling strategy is also key; significantly more fuel should be used to lower cylinder temps. An active regeneration would actually help reduce cylinder temps thanks to fuel being injected but not compressed.
My take is that if you are towing within your rated limits the truck should handle it without issue. If it doesn't, something is wrong with your truck.
#53
In reading the threads about diesel owners towing on big hills, it seems everyone expects the truck to loaf its way to the top in high gear, and gets upset if the truck downshifts and revs higher. I’m thinking that these trucks are lugging up the hills, and of course when you lug an engine all the temperatures go way up because there’s not enough coolant or oil flow to effectively carry away the heat. By the time the truck finally downshifts, the temperatures are excessive and the cooling systems can’t get rid of that excess heat. I’d bet if you manually shifted down a gear or two at the bottom of the hill (where it says on the sign xx% grade for xxmiles) and took the hill at 60 instead of trying for 75mph, you’d have no issues with cooling whatsoever.
#54
In reading the threads about diesel owners towing on big hills, it seems everyone expects the truck to loaf its way to the top in high gear, and gets upset if the truck downshifts and revs higher. I’m thinking that these trucks are lugging up the hills, and of course when you lug an engine all the temperatures go way up because there’s not enough coolant or oil flow to effectively carry away the heat. By the time the truck finally downshifts, the temperatures are excessive and the cooling systems can’t get rid of that excess heat. I’d bet if you manually shifted down a gear or two at the bottom of the hill (where it says on the sign xx% grade for xxmiles) and took the hill at 60 instead of trying for 75mph, you’d have no issues with cooling whatsoever.
It's not about lugging and low RPM's, when in Tow Mode especially.
#56
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Somewhere south of Denver
Posts: 18,776
Received 6,680 Likes
on
2,745 Posts
Ignoring speed, towed weight and gear selection, what temperature is too high? Member Fountain 1 suggested (above) that 248° F isn't terribly high for the engine oil. Modern synthetic oils can likely handle this without an issue. But at what point will the truck de-rate or go into limp mode?
My truck's engine oil hit 243° F (as I recall) without exhibiting a problem (no warnings or de-rate). This was on a pass that peaks at 11,306' while I was towing somewhere between 10k and 11K.
My truck's engine oil hit 243° F (as I recall) without exhibiting a problem (no warnings or de-rate). This was on a pass that peaks at 11,306' while I was towing somewhere between 10k and 11K.
#57
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Central BC, Canada EHH
Posts: 509
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
This is an issue that independent groups comparing the big 3 (‘17 models) found also, best power empty, or loaded flat, but running hot and defueling up hills with big weight where the other brands were fine. There’s a YouTube video on one comparison that does this same heat issue. My 450 ran very warm last summer when I drove through 8 States and two Provinces, i have a list of changes I’m doing this year to make the cooling system proactive when the load increases and heat builds, not reactive when it’s bordering a defueling threshold. I found it irritating. A decent oil cooler and in line thermostat, possibly eliminating the oil/water cooler, huge bypass filter, actual oil temp and pressure gauges, and a snow performance stage 3 kit I’ve had on the shelf, they increase miles between regens and cut exhaust temps, while making a bit of power too, even with a stock truck.
#58
I'd like to see any videos or written comparisons where the other two brands powered heavy loads up hills without issue but the Ford had issues. I can think of the "Midnight Super IKE" that TFL did when the 2017 trucks were just coming out. They ran a 450 up the Eisenhower Pass towing 30k lbs; then they subsequently ran a RAM 3500 towing 30k lbs. The Ford was a full minute quicker up the hill. GM doesn't currently have any trucks rated to pull 30k.
In hot weather, Ford should actually have the advantage...because it uses an air-to-liquid intercooler while GM and RAM use air-to-air. So Ford is able to actually maintain the charged air temp to about the same as always in 100F weather, whereas GM and RAM would be seeing noticeably warmed charged air temps in 100F weather...reducing horsepower and torque.
Just my opinion.
In hot weather, Ford should actually have the advantage...because it uses an air-to-liquid intercooler while GM and RAM use air-to-air. So Ford is able to actually maintain the charged air temp to about the same as always in 100F weather, whereas GM and RAM would be seeing noticeably warmed charged air temps in 100F weather...reducing horsepower and torque.
Just my opinion.
#59
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Central BC, Canada EHH
Posts: 509
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
By the book it should be, but it’s only as good as its flaws in manufacturing. I’ve changed 3 water/oil coolers, plugged up from casting debris. You’d think it would be a job 1 issue, it’s been going on since 2011. I have 3 buddies that are Ford Diesel Tech’s, all they work on is powerstrokes, they can’t recall how many they’ve changed out between two different trucks while the other two had no issues. They recommend coolant filter assembles, right away, and hope that’s good enough, with frequent changes. I put a coolant bypass filter on my ‘16, a bit too late, but we will see how that works out this coming season. Same goes for the air/water intercooler. How many of those don’t perform like they should. Air to air doesn’t have that problem, nor does an oil cooler that isn’t tied to the coolant on the truck. TFL has one of the comparisons with 1 ton dually diesels, on youtube, the Ford choked hard, two guess why. They don’t share why though, they dance around that gently with every truck that doesn’t perform like it should. I’m also adding the high pressure fuel pump bypass, preventative never hurts.
#60
Yes I watched the episode where the 350 dually underperformed especially compared to the L5P Chevy. There was a ton of discussion about that test. Was something “off” with that particular Ford? Who knows. But what everyone forgets is the 450 “Midnight Ike” I mentioned vs the RAM...at 30k lbs. The Ford outperforms the RAM at 30k but not at 22k? Doesn’t make sense. Same hill climb. Same engine and trans.