Good luck Sean. Maybe we'll see you in the 6.7 forum?

 

I'm so sorry Sean , I know you took good care of your truck in the life it had , the main thing is your all right ( in healing ) , good Advise on the Buisness side of things and I hope it works out for the better , Dam I really hate seeing one of our 6.0 looking like that , take care Bud

 

I would go 6.7 is it was in the budget but that is far out there at this time.
Bwwn some time sense I have had a new ride to break in.

Got a call from the repair estimator and it passed the repair limit and so they totaled it.
Now I get to talk to s different Dept. about how we are going to settle it. At lease I own
it with no payments at all.

The thought I am going with right now is keep and fix but also pick something up.
Then build now very nice truck and one good truck I can sell to get my losses back.
The truck I found that matches mine is not quite the same because I have the better
trim package and this one has a small lift on it I do't want with some big tires that
I also don't want. Give me stock 18" on mice rims and I will be happy. It also has a
hot air intake "thingy" .

Anyway After finding the transfer case busted up last night U was thinking that would
be the hard part but I found something a little bit more of a pain but I am sure that
I can deal with it. The driver side BC3Z-3B095-B radius arm bracket is bent along with
a bit of the frame.






That last photo I want to get in with a good straight edge and see if that is just some
tire rubbing off the road grime. Regardless if I do tackle this project it will see some
time on the frame machine to check to be sure that is not whacked way out.

One plus about being a packrat is I still have that good airbag from wen I replaced
the wheel and horn switch.

I got both drivelines out and nothing jumped from being loaded with bent metal.
I drained the transfer case because I did not want a big mess on the driveway.
Sadly I only got about 6oz out of it. Right now the only thing holding the case in is
the skid plate. So when I remove the plate I think I'll have the jack holding it up.

Night all.

 

Glad you made it out better than the truck did. Best of luck on whichever course of action you choose Sean. Look forward to seeing & reading about your next project. I'm sure it will be grand 😎👍🏻

 

Well I now have a project in the driveway.

I'll need to get with DMV to see what I need to do
on the repairs to get all my ducks in line.

 

If anyone has done frame work I would like to hear from you.

 

I told you last night what I thought. At least 2-2.5 k is going towards paint work. 4.5 in parts and outside labor. As far as the radius arm, I'd use the old one and straighten it with the help of a torch and us the old arm to pull it back into place, then quench it with old to keep the hardness.As for the transfer case, you have 2 options. Get a used one, or fix that one, it's up to you. I'd take the front dif down and see if that can be repaired cheaper than replacing it. The parts are available. Again, that's your choice. I'm cheap,so I'd go the least amount of money for the best job.

 

A person I know that was a Snap On dealer gave me the name of a guy that does all
his body work on his antiques and had sold him a very well equipped frame machine
that also has the power to pull the ½" of steel at the over lap joint if needed said if I
wanted to go to a small local owned shop I should at least stop in and chat with him.

So I will at least go in and have a chat to see what he thinks. You never know
maybe we can do some barter.

The transfer case is cracked on both sides around the input and it may be less
painful to just stuff one in. I'll have to look at the parts that come out and maybe
my old parts + some bearings can fix up a core case.

I did not do much today other than move it up a little on the driveway so I
can also get the car up near the house. But in doing that I was able to try
and spin the driver side tire and wheel. Lots of crunchy sounds coming from
the unit bearing and or a bit more into the diff. I need to pull the tire and test
hw bad it really is. The bad radius will have to be cut to get at the bolts on the
axle at the one nut and bolt do to it being folded over the bolt.

I did get both of the drivelines off yesterday and no pops when I pulled the bolts
out of the ends.

I really need to get out and start it. All the tests I have done so far say OK.
One of the DTCs I got was low brake fluid and I found out why last night.
The driver side caliper is all wet and I do have a network issue with the ABS
module not talking to the PCM.

 

The ground for the ABS control is up over the drivers headlight. The wire or the spotwelds for the inner fender may have broke, so I'd check that and maybe work in a new battery ground. With your truck the ABSis above the wheel, so you might want to check tire contact through the wheelwell liner. I don't have your year diagram so can't tell if they went to a fusible link, or if it's fused. Those are first thoughts.

 

The only thing I can add Sean is, if it gets a salvage title be very careful how much money you put into it.. Could be very much cheaper to pick up. A truck with blown motor and just transfer your goodies over. Since these trucks are over 10 years old and have an albatross hanging over them, cost is very real.

 

My target is to keep it under $7500 total.
The buyback was $3500 so that leaves $4000
to work with.

Jack there is no left front headlight left to speak of
let alone the wires. Well it's not that bad but I think your
right about the damaged ground. It's good I have the wire
tools. While we are on the brake topic I was thinking it
might be good to also do the master cylinder.

 

If you were deep into the brakes when the accident occured, depending on fluid maintenance it could have a nicked cup. But anyway, for peace of mind it's not a bad component to replace after an accident for so many reasons. Get a Motorcraft, you know a guy.

But, if it was any part of the situation, mark it, photo it, and put it in a ziplock then a box. If not, trash it.

 

No reason to keep the old part in this case.

I got the front drive line out after I removed the transfer case skid plate. Tall
jack stands do come in handy. The funny thing is the 4 bolts that held the shaft
in place were hand tight and not any loctite. That bothers me. I need to have
a chat with the guy that installed the trans to let him know about it. Not that I
expect any thing. More so he can keep an eye on things like that so someone does
not have an issue. out of the 4 I only had to use a tiny bit of force on one of then.

Tomorrow I will get the transfer case out of the way and check for any runout
of the output shaft of the trans. This will also give me room to access the bend in
the frame a bit better than I did the other day. The bend is past the splice on the back
side just past the radius arm bracket end. Likely the rivets will have to be pulled and
replaced with bolts. The spec is in the Ford manual. I sure would like to get my hands
on one of the Body Builders Layout Book for 2006.

 

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...bodybuild.html

I'm assuming you do know correctly about bolt replacement of rivets by your statement.

 

A squared up frame would be my concern.
Frame reference holes can be used along with a plumbob.

That's got to be a Amarillo, right?
I like their interior
Don't see to many of those on the road.