Okay. Ill take the $900. The truck was missing, more than 3 bolts. Both of the bottom ones. Don't know how. But, it's just like a 140,000 Ford Ranger should be now. So pleased to have her back and better than before.

 

So now all is now well, no more idle problems?

 

Runs great, drive great. Still have 3 codes. 136, 141, 401. Drives better than I've ever had it

 

The 401 code is for insufficient EGR flow & the 136 is for the before cat O2 sensor.
You probably never got around to fixing the in cabin vacuum leak that's causing air flow to default to Defrost? This can corrupt fuel trim & may be part of the 136 code, so you still have some tidy up things to put right, before kicking back & folding your arms.
The 141 code is still for the after cat O2 sensor, so I suppose you've not yet had the cat converter replaced?

 

iI havent had an issue with the default to defrost mode in almost a year, but the A/C max does not work. I'll need a little explanation on how to vacuum test it, but I want to handle that. As well as the trans fluid, because, I just didn't wanna pay dealer prices for those things. I was thinking an after market trans cooler would be smart also since this truck lives in the mountains now. Radiator and trans coolers should be separate.

The truck is exceptional though. I know my throttle cable is terribly stretched but, now it can hold overdrive on a lot of the hills it should've been able to. Its very smooth and you can inch it around now, it used to jump.

I'm thinking I'll just buy a new cat, instead of repairing the old one that might fail.

 

Ok. if it's idling to your satisfaction, it's time to close out this thread & open others for the other problems, so you get answers just for them.

Open the "Tech Info" thread atop the thread index page & scroll down to the bottom to find a link to a thread I started on how I change my tranny filter & continue on to perform a Full tranny fluid pump out, with a slightly modified procedure the Dealers used before getting their Rotunda flush machine. It's easy to do, less messy & can save you $100-$150 on a tranny filter & fluid service.

The "won't go to Max A/C" sounds like the common broken blend door pivot problem & there is a thread on how to check for the problem & repair it, that'll save a lot of work & your gold. Lots of useful wrench turning info that can be mined, in the Tech Info thread.

To check the in cabin A/C control system for a vacuum leak, disconnect it's vacuum hose feed line at the under hood firewall vacuum manifold, & connect your vacuum source to the hose & see if it'll hold vacuum. If not, you have a leak. Hose run through the firewall & the end connection points are high up on the suspect list.

The tranny fluid needs to be at the right temp to do it's thing, so if your going to add a inline cooler, or bypass the radiator completely, which keeps it at the right temp, but removes excess heat, make sure your add-on cooler is properly sized & can regulate temp, so you don't get over cooling in winter. Mountains in Tx, you must be in West Tx?

Good idea to replace the old cat converter, as it's likely damaged & melted down internally, if it got so hot it melted & fell off!!!

Use your ELM scan tool to monitor fuel trim & the before cat O2 sensor switching range & speed, to see if you can get a clue on whats going with the sensor, or upstream of it, that's causing the 136 code to keep resetting.

Anyway, begin new threads for each of those problems if you need forum assistance in thinking through a trouble shoot & repair on them.

 

I really appreciate your help. I woud not have know where to start on this truck. I've learned a good bit about this truck in the last few weeks and it's only made me more pleased that I purchased one. I'm glad y'all are out here helping us keep these old beauties on the road.

 

Ok, good to hear you've found the forum info helpful in your trouble shooting & repair.

With a few more minutes of patience & concentration, you could have used that info to have saved your self a good chunk of gold, by routing the plug wires properly, replacing the starter & fixing it's broken lead.

Don't know who left the tranny mounting bolts out & didn't get the engine tranny properly aligned, but it sounds like maybe it was enough for the torque converter & tranny input shaft to have been running in a bind!!!??? Anyway good to hear your pleased with the improvement in how it's running.

Maybe with fixing the exhaust, to get back pressure in Tune, will help some more with the 4banger's engine performance.

If you'll opt for a licensed Mercon V tranny fluid & Motorcraft/Filtran tranny filter, the tranny shifting may show improvement too, mine always have.

Keep tweaking away at getting All due past & present scheduled maintenance replacement items up to date with Ford products, or at least ones that say in writing they meet, or exceed Ford specifications & that'll likely bring some more joy.

My 99 4.0L is still tight & running like it was when new but I'm persnickety about keeping scheduled maintenance caught up, with licensed fluids & mostly Ford/Motorcraft parts that have proved to be good, or quality aftermarket, like BWD, who also makes parts for OEM's & their parts I've used have served well.

 

Don't mean to bring this post up again, but thought you should see this. It appears as though the truck had lost the section between the cat and header before.

 

 

So the new exhaust is on??? If so, notice any improvement in engine power, or response at throttle up?

 

Well pawpaw, I wanna start by saying I'm sorry. It's been a hell of a year and you've been the biggest help and right there with it, even though I have left you hanging for responses for quite some time. I feel the least I can do is provide you with my latest update on this truck.




I had the old exhaust repaired and reinstalled. Since then, the 2.5 in this truck now runs unbelievably well. Plenty of power, it's old 20 avg is now 30, I even have to be careful around town because it squeals pretty easy. It idles perfect, never tries to stall, and it's way too quiet for me (I drove it straight piped for a year). I also told you how much I idled it, well, I tested it after I got the exhaust on, idled it 6 hours and hardly used a gallon.

Since this last post I've done a new extension housing on the trans, and new u joints. I've since that, put almost 3500 miles on the truck. This truck is better than when I bought it at 70,000 miles. Just shy of 150,000, and I feel confident it will double it. I love this truck and I never thought I would say that

 

Good to hear all seems well & your now finally satisfied with the resurrection. Way to hang in there to see it through to a successful ending. Enjoy the ride & really good mpg!!!!
Bet you can't wipe the smile off your face. I still get one every time I start mine up & drive it!!!

 

In my search for an answer, this thread is close to what I was looking for/wondering about:

Is there a recommended replacement time/mileage for an Idler Pulley?

My serpentine belt is still looking good, but its got lots of miles on it, 50K since I bought it with 90K miles..... I don't know if has ever been replaced.

I do know Idler Pulleys do not last forever......
The tensioner has an indicator arrow to let me know when it's getting tired....

....I recall that the idler pulley on my '94 just seized right up one cold Feb evening, and we didn't get home that night.

These questions pertain to my '06 XLT, std cab, 4-cyl, 5-speed, with A/C, Ranger.

Thanks in Advance for any input, Guys!!

BarnieTrk