Starter solenoid that is reliable?
#1
Starter solenoid that is reliable?
Does a starter solenoid exist that doesn't suck? I have never managed to get much life out of these things, and the majority of people buy them and fill out online customer reviews seem to agree.
It's one of those things where I am more than happy to pay more for the "better" option, but those generally don't have customer ratings. I don't want to just spend more for the same thing.
Anyone used the Motorcraft SW7663?
Borg Warner?
Wells?
It's one of those things where I am more than happy to pay more for the "better" option, but those generally don't have customer ratings. I don't want to just spend more for the same thing.
Anyone used the Motorcraft SW7663?
Borg Warner?
Wells?
#2
#3
I always had problems with solenoids, went through about 3 in a week, the 4th seemed to last a few months. I was just overlooking product issues and exchanging them at Advanced Auto (Terrible decision, I know) I finally ended up going to a local NAPA and buying a solenoid. It was a little more expensive, like 8 bucks more expensive. But worked ever since.
#4
I just did this recently. Funniest thing about this is that the NAPA part was still made in Taiwan! So far, so good. The previous part purchased at OReilly's was a BW that got stuck as soon as power was applied. Ugh I'm waiting to see other replies to this as far as the Motorcraft part goes.
#6
Has to do with the duty cycle. Automotive starter solenoids (and starters for that matter) are not rated for continuous duty, only for a split second. The solenoids will only pass X amount of amperage momentarily. Offshore electrical parts are notorious since they use substandard materials. Some parts stores have a few different levels of quality lines available for a given part, be sure to ask.
Better to seek out boxed NOS, the cost isn't that much more and after replacing a few el-cheapos out you won't have saved any money anyway. If you dig around the Cole-Hersee website you'll find different grades of all different kinds of solenoids, including the classic Ford type, in 200 amp continuous duty ratings. Some get a little spendy, but an 8 buck 'Zone solenoid can't be expected to last. Ya get what you pay for, if you're lucky.
Keep in mind other factors too - a failing starter for example is going to draw way more current than a serviceable unit and will smoke a cheap solenoid right quick. Make sure cables and grounds are bombproof, clean and tight, battery is thoroughly charged, etc.
Better to seek out boxed NOS, the cost isn't that much more and after replacing a few el-cheapos out you won't have saved any money anyway. If you dig around the Cole-Hersee website you'll find different grades of all different kinds of solenoids, including the classic Ford type, in 200 amp continuous duty ratings. Some get a little spendy, but an 8 buck 'Zone solenoid can't be expected to last. Ya get what you pay for, if you're lucky.
Keep in mind other factors too - a failing starter for example is going to draw way more current than a serviceable unit and will smoke a cheap solenoid right quick. Make sure cables and grounds are bombproof, clean and tight, battery is thoroughly charged, etc.
#7
And the bad part is the same ole Taiwan solenoids are the same for a lot of vehicles. Not just fords. Jeeps too. And warn winches. Probably many more.
And has been discussed before that there is an alternate design being the $15 version (no longer $8???) but basically the exact same design inside just different mounting pattern. And all still made in Taiwan.
I find them hit and miss and not electrical specific. Some last a few months and some last forever?
Then the notorious episode of going to untwist a side nut to replace a cable and either the stud rips off and it's ka-put or the torque nut underneath starts to turn and starts to back out from the side of the housing and usually never the same again.
And has been discussed before that there is an alternate design being the $15 version (no longer $8???) but basically the exact same design inside just different mounting pattern. And all still made in Taiwan.
I find them hit and miss and not electrical specific. Some last a few months and some last forever?
Then the notorious episode of going to untwist a side nut to replace a cable and either the stud rips off and it's ka-put or the torque nut underneath starts to turn and starts to back out from the side of the housing and usually never the same again.
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#9
#11
I just searched this and it looks exactly like the later starter relays for $15+? Simply states "Glow Plug Relay"? Any difference?
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...arter+solenoid
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...arter+solenoid
#12
7.3L Powerstroke I had in my '01 E-350 van needed a new Glow Plug relay once. I thought I'd beat the cashier and use a starter relay, only to find out what Tedster already said about the duty cycle being the issue.
Glow plugs needed to be energized for a lot longer than most starters have to run, internals on the glow plug relay then in theory have to be more stout.
And the amperage running through the glow plug relay is at least as high if not higher than the starter I would guess too.
Winters up in the icebox Northwest Corner of Connecticut even with the darn thing plugged in I'd still need to runn the glow plugs through a couple cycles before attempting to start the engine.
I'd give it a shot, what could it hurt? Install it and toss the one you already ordered into the glovebox as a backup.
PS I try to not buy anything but washer fluid from the advance or autozone or oriellys of the world. Too many bad experiences with what ended up being lower quality stuff in an already low quality world. NAPA seems a hair better, I'll go without eating for a day if it's something I really need to get from the dealership.
Glow plugs needed to be energized for a lot longer than most starters have to run, internals on the glow plug relay then in theory have to be more stout.
And the amperage running through the glow plug relay is at least as high if not higher than the starter I would guess too.
Winters up in the icebox Northwest Corner of Connecticut even with the darn thing plugged in I'd still need to runn the glow plugs through a couple cycles before attempting to start the engine.
I'd give it a shot, what could it hurt? Install it and toss the one you already ordered into the glovebox as a backup.
PS I try to not buy anything but washer fluid from the advance or autozone or oriellys of the world. Too many bad experiences with what ended up being lower quality stuff in an already low quality world. NAPA seems a hair better, I'll go without eating for a day if it's something I really need to get from the dealership.