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Can someone give me a quick list of issues?

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6.4L Power Stroke Diesel Engine fitted to 2008 - 2010 F250, F350 and F450 pickup trucks and F350 + Cab Chassis

Can someone give me a quick list of issues?

 
  #16  
Old 07-17-2017, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Picton View Post
Copper can you please explain that one?^^^
I'm probably not qualified to help you, good luck.
 
  #17  
Old 07-17-2017, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Copper.Farm View Post
I'm probably not qualified to help you, good luck.
I think you are quite qualified. Wait...what? You can't explain your comment? Are you just kidding?
 
  #18  
Old 07-17-2017, 08:51 PM
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Diesel is very dry, the 6.4L is high Presure fuel not high Presure oil like the 6.0L. Adding clean oil to help with lubricant is just what I do - I'm not interested in a debate with everyone selling snake oil so don't ask.

My truck is the best I've owned, it works for me and I trust the motor which is more than I can say about the three 6.0L I owned.
 
  #19  
Old 07-17-2017, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Copper.Farm View Post
Diesel is very dry, the 6.4L is high Presure fuel not high Presure oil like the 6.0L. Adding clean oil to help with lubricant is just what I do - I'm not interested in a debate with everyone selling snake oil so don't ask.

My truck is the best I've owned, it works for me and I trust the motor which is more than I can say about the three 6.0L I owned.
Copper...Thanks for the reply. I wasn't interested in any kind of "snake oil" conversation. I just wanted to know more about your methodology for adding motor oil into the fuel tank. It sounds interesting.
 
  #20  
Old 07-17-2017, 10:52 PM
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Yahiko, DON'T DO IT!

I know the 6.0 can be a headache sometimes, but at least their issues can be fixed and they can live long lives. The 6.4 is a whole can of worms you don't want to get into. Think huge $$$ repairs and an engine that wears out very fast for a diesel and is also rarely rebuildable, due to them usually failing catastrophically. There are relatively reliable 6.4s out there, but they are few and far between. It was the engine that made Ford sever their ties with International.
 
  #21  
Old 07-17-2017, 11:48 PM
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I don't think there is a quick list of issues. It depends on how you drive and how hard people drove the truck you are buying. Some people here had a lot of issues. Others bought a truck that was well maintained and still going strong at double the mileage of the ones with issues.
 
  #22  
Old 07-18-2017, 07:59 AM
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Well, Denny invited me to this line of thought while I'm pondering where to go with my existing 7.3... EITHER
1) prepare to throw about $6K into it over the next year or so, OR
2) buy a lower mileage replacement 7.3 w/ 4WD and take care of it like my current one, OR
3) buy and bulletproof a 2007 6.0, OR
4) jump into the low-priced fear market of 6.4's and make the most of it.

I believe that I have now, after reading this thread, ruled out the 6.4 option for myself. I still have to decide between the first three choices, but that will develop in the coming months.

OH, BTW... using engine oil as a fuel lubricity additive is not very smart... the oil additives are NOT good for your engine's combustion path. If you want the best down and dirty choice to avoid snake oils, just stick with a much simpler 2-stroke oil instead and you'll get the same lubricity benefits without the potentially damaging additives.
 
  #23  
Old 07-18-2017, 02:43 PM
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Sean,

Just like most of the questions asked to compare one motor to another, the thread results in snake oil and fear - and fear of snake oil, or oil.

My 6.4L works for me, better than any of the 7.3 or 6.0 motors I've owned - your experience will vary.
 
  #24  
Old 07-18-2017, 03:25 PM
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  #25  
Old 07-18-2017, 04:33 PM
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So I do have a lot of 6.0L time and
Now that the insurance CO has come back with a total on the 6.0 I will
be doing something and I want to stay with diesel.

So I do understand the care and maintenance part well. That is why I
wanted the info. I am seeing this so far.
Good fuel not a lot of short drives (likes to be driven) stay on top of
things maintenance wise and it can still like the 6.0 bite you in the ***.
 
  #26  
Old 07-18-2017, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Yahiko View Post
So I do have a lot of 6.0L time and
Now that the insurance CO has come back with a total on the 6.0 I will
be doing something and I want to stay with diesel.

So I do understand the care and maintenance part well. That is why I
wanted the info. I am seeing this so far.
Good fuel not a lot of short drives (likes to be driven) stay on top of
things maintenance wise and it can still like the 6.0 bite you in the ***.

The big difference between the 6.4 and the 6.0 is how bad it bites you in the ***. The 6.4 is a great deal more expensive to fix when things go wrong. They also seem to lose the engine a lot more often. Cracked pistons, stuck open injectors, cavitation eating through front cover, excessive valvetrain wear, sequential turbos, head gaskets, HPFP, lifters, emissions equipment, etc. All these things are known common failure points and cost a hell of a lot more to fix than most 6.0 repairs.

Yahiko, if you have already ruled out another 6.0, a 7.3 would probably cause the least amount of headache. If you can financially swing it, a 2013+ 6.7 would be much better alternative to the 6.4. They cost less to fix and break a lot less often. They also make great power stock and don't need to be deleted to be reliable.

Believe it or not, the 08-2010 duramax has proven to be the best of the DPF equipped trucks without the DEF. I am by no means a duramax fan, but the LMM has a good reputation going for it.
The common rail 5.9 cummins (2003-2007) are reliable, but a stuck open injector can roast a piston in a matter of minutes. It happens all too often and that risk was a factor in me selling my 03 cummins. The overall build quality of the dodges is not nearly as good as the fords or chevys either.
The cummins 6.7s are decent, once deleted. They do have a weak 6-speed automatic that is very expensive to rebuild/replace though, unless you can get your hands on one with an Aisin tranny.

When i bought my current truck (late 99 7.3) i had the 6.0s and 7.3s on the radar. I could afford a 6.4, but not a lower mile 6.7. I could not find a studded 6.0 that wasn't either overpriced or beat on. I ended up finding my 7.3 with 121k miles and never been tuned and had no aftermarket parts at all. The only major problem is a clogged tranny cooler, that has led to the previous owner overheating the tranny severely. It's still in the truck, but it's obvious the ol' 4r100 is on its last leg. It gets up to 230f just driving around unloaded for 30 minutes and flares and/or drags the shifts.
 
  #27  
Old 07-18-2017, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by brandonrr View Post
The big difference between the 6.4 and the 6.0 is how bad it bites you in the ***. The 6.4 is a great deal more expensive to fix when things go wrong. They also seem to lose the engine a lot more often. Cracked pistons, stuck open injectors, cavitation eating through front cover, excessive valvetrain wear, sequential turbos, head gaskets, HPFP, lifters, emissions equipment, etc. All these things are known common failure points and cost a hell of a lot more to fix than most 6.0 repairs.
Could not have said it better myself!

Originally Posted by brandonrr View Post
If you can financially swing it, a 2013+ 6.7 would be much better alternative to the 6.4. They cost less to fix and break a lot less often. They also make great power stock and don't need to be deleted to be reliable.
I have put almost 36,000 miles on my 2016, and I couldn't be happier. Yes, every now and then I do miss the "clatter" of my 2007, but hitting that skinny pedal of my 2016 still puts a smile on my face every time. My diesel repair work has decreased significantly since the 6.0L/6.4L engines have gone out of warranty by now. That should tell you something about the 6.7L, which has now been in production for seven model years by the way.
 
 
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