I'm at a loss, I have been trying to keep my poor old 2000 f250 with the V10 going for years now.

in 2010 I put a jasper transmission in it @ 115k miles, old one just popped.

in 2013 a spark plug blew out and I was stupid enough to try and helicoil it myself. Long story short I ended up destroying a cycliner by not getting all the shavings out. I went ahead put a Jasper engine in it with 3 year warranty (was at 150k miles) Out of warranty now for 6 months, jasper wont touch it.

3 months ago the Jasper shot a plug out, I was mad. The shop that installed the motor did put in an insert but still cost me a couple hundred bucks (even after assuring me jasper had fixed this problem, grrr)
2 months ago I hit a deer, 8000$ worth of damage and my first insurance claim in 15 years, entire truck looks new now, of course.

just crossed 200k miles last week pulling my boat home (9000lbs) the truck overheats. I could see my antifreeze looked like oil when i got home and was bubbling over. It wouldn't overheat when not pulling the boat, i drove it for a week like nothing was wrong. 2 days ago I did a radiator flush. after the 4th flush my water was still turning to oil color bad and now its overheating without pulling anything. Everyone says head gasket is letting exhaust blow by. Oil still looks fine though.

called 3 shops, 2 wont touch it, one quoted $2500 and says the engine has to be pulled to do the head gasket. I am so close to walking away but I have not had a truck payment in 7 years, that has been so nice. My wife is begging me to get a new truck but wow they are not cheap. Before this happened I was going to get a newer F150 and still use this one to pull the boat. I dont have that option now I guess.

What would you all do? it sounds like the head gasket its a MAJOR job, most likely too advanced for me even if I could take a few weeks to attempt it.

I found a few local 2016 f250's with the 6.2 in them, all have ~20k miles for about $34k I really am not sure if I can swing that. Every time I mention getting an older 7.3l diesel to my wife she claims i'm just going to buy another old POS. I kind of agree, done ball joints twice on my truck already and other drive train type work. I really don't need a diesel either...

I can still drive the v10 a bit, could even drive it to the dealer and trade it, but not sure how I feel about doing that.

Could this be a problem other than the head gasket? or something that does not require a couple thousand to fix?

 

Wow you have had some bad luck, sounds to me like you have a money pit at this point, what did the Jasper motor run you. Just for comparison my same year with 260k runs like a champ but I am the only owner and it has been well maintained. I had the tranny rebuilt at 220k with drive shafts and new locking hubs. I would not dream of getting rid of mine. As you are familiar with the v10 maybe a later model 2008 or 9

 

Jasper was expensive $8k I would not have done it if I didnt already put in the new transmission and then had just put on a new set of tires. I figured after that the truck was going to run forever. I have locking hubs as well, that was the first thing I ever put on when the auto hubs started locking in when I would hit random bumps.

 

Oil in the antifreeze can be the oil cooler gasket let go. I forget exactly what happens, but I think between the oil cooler and adapter is a gasket (or o-ring?) that the high-pressure oil can leak into the coolant side of the cooler.

It might not be a head gasket. Once you hit a high enough RPM (and high oil pressure) oil goes into the coolant, and who knows, that might cause an overheat because the oil is not allowing heat to transfer correctly.

Usually with a head gasket, you get coolant in the oil, not the other way around.

If you're not getting steam in the exhaust, and no coolant in the oil, it's not a head gasket.

 

Oh, and to add to that, is it really overheating? Or just puking coolant? The high pressure from the oil feed can cause excess pressure in the cooling system and push coolant past the cap.

 

Thanks for the info,

It for sure overheated the first day pulling the boat, temp rose quick just before I got home and the temp light came on as I was pulling up the driveway with the temp almost pegged. I opened the hood and the gas bottle had blown a small hole in it. You can see my repair with marine tex (which worked really well actually)

I let things cool, added some antifreeze and drove it to work the rest of the week without it ever overheating. I ordered a new gas bottle and the day it came in I drove in town to buy a couple gallons of antifreeze to do the radiator flush. It was 98 degrees that day outside and I had my code reader plugged in while I drove to town and back. The temp stayed around 185 most of the time, climbing into the 190s while idling parked. When I got home and shut the engine off the temp climbed close to 220 (aka got hotter when I shut it off) I popped the hood and took a video of this. I flushed the radiator 4 times and each time I let it idle for 10 minutes and it would reach 175-185 but no higher. But when I would drain the water out it looked just like this each time. Maybe it is the oil cooler? I put my hand over the gas bottle opening to try and feel pressure but felt none when it idled.

 

There's not many places oil can get into the coolant, and at the same time, coolant won't get into the oil. It's theoretically possible to crack a head in just the right place I guess, but I'd really look at the oil cooler. At idle, oil pressure is at least 20 lbs, which is above what the cap will bypass at (7?).

And who knows, with that much oil in the coolant and under load, maybe it just can't transfer heat so it overheats.

 

Thanks, Its worth a shot for as cheap as the oil cooler is. I just found this thread on another site that explains how to change it.

Thin Oil Cooler - Forest River Forums


Guess I could get lucky! Out of the country for 2 weeks but will reply back here after I try this and let the forum know if it was the fix.


Edit: I just found a recall notice for the 99-01 fords for exactly this problem

 

Definitely let us know how it goes...

(Side note: I see the "cardboard going everywhere" fallacy about Fram filters was still alive and well in 2012...)

 

The cap is 16psi cap if if good at this point it's likely the op's cap won't hold pressure at all so like so like you said it will have more pressure than the cooling system and that's why the your don't have water in the oil. My first thought when reading this was oil cooler as well. Krabill make sure you get the cooling system completely clean after the oil cooler you may be best served by using the 6.0 ruptured oil cooler tactic dawn dish soap and cascade to control the foaming. I would highly recommend using a Motorcraft oil cooler too I know the oe one failed you but the quality of aftermarket parts is a prime example of you get what you pay for. I don't even know if anyone else makes one but just throwing this out there the last thing you want is to do this again.

 

Thanks for the tip on the dawn dish soap, I read that procedure a few hours ago and will give that a shot as well. I have a new gas bottle and cap installed now and trashed the old one.

I have found three tiers of oil coolers, 50 bucks 100 bucks and 150 bucks. no name brand for 50, a dawson for 100 and the OEM for 150. You are prob right to go with OEM in this case.

Its seems like its just a quick bolt on job as far as I can tell.

 

Yea it really doesn't look to be a bad job at all just make sure to to follow the procedure with the cascade so you don't have a foamy mess. Your also going to have to replace all the rubber hoses after you get it all clean out as oil ruins them keep us posted on your progress or if we can help you. It may be more than you want to spend now but its still cheaper than a new truck. I'll tell you one thing I wouldn't put a dawson oil cooler in my truck if you gave it to me. Here I just saved you some cash .
Oil Cooler Assembly for 2001 Ford F-250 Super Duty|4C3Z-6A642-A : AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake | Parts & Accessories
https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuse...IL-COOLER-ASSY
https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/For...C3Z6A642A.html

 

One more question before I buy parts. I think I read somewhere that when you have oil in the system it is recommended to change the hoses. I cant find it now of course.

Will a major dawn detergent flush like I plan to do clean the hoses or should I really buy all new hoses? Will the oil really break them down?

should I put in a new thermostat as well?

And lastly I see people recommend a coolant filter kit for the 6.0 guys. Is there one for the V10 or am I going overkill with this?

Thanks in advance.

 

I'd fix the cooler before spending any money on parts in case it's not that. You don't want to put all new hoses in it and have it leak oil again.

Put plain water in it, and see how it goes.

 

Copy that, very good point, Thanks and will post back when I get it swapped in.