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Engine RPMS drop shifting to park

 
  #1  
Old 07-14-2017, 08:40 PM
eureka16
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Engine RPMS drop shifting to park

I have a 1990 E-150 XL 5.8L. Has been running like a charm. Very dependable. It started idling rough a couple days ago, and has somewhat of a sputter driving with no get up and go. When I shift the transmission from drive to park the rpms drop and the engine almost stalls. Today after driving around 60 miles I was headed home. The engine stalled, or just quit. I had to let it sit for a few minutes to restart. I drove about a mile and it happened again. Luckily I was almost home. Once again, I had to sit for a few minutes before it would start. No check engine light. Maybe someone has experienced this problem before. Any thoughts, suggestion's would be greatly appreciated.
 
  #2  
Old 07-15-2017, 09:34 PM
Wildman25
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First here's a Link with some good info on the sensors and trouble shooting.

Question - is the ICM distributor mounted or Fender mounted??

Reason, there were a lot of heat problems with the ICM mounted on the distributor, most have re-located the ICM away from the distributor, to solve this over heating/shut down, wait for it to cool off before re-start.
 
  #3  
Old 07-18-2017, 06:37 AM
eureka16
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The ICM is distributor mounted. If the ICM is overheating after about 45 minutes of driving, I am not sure of a fix. It has never done this before, and I have owned the van since Feb. 1999. I am in San Antonio, TX. The outside temperature was 98 at the time. Could this also cause the rough idle, minor sputtering on acceleration? Even when I floored the pedal, it did not shift, and get up and go. Accelerates slowly. Thank you so much for the link! Very valuable troubleshooting information.
 
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Old 07-18-2017, 07:53 PM
Wildman25
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The ICM mounted to the distributor has been the cause of what you first described as the engine shut down, in very hot conditions.

The repair is to move the ICM to a higher location, above/away from the engine, and extend the 3 wires to the PIP, many others have done this, and solved the problem. *I could find the link for the repair if you need*

Your reply and expiation of the 'no acceleration and lack of power' is another condition/problem, most likely the catalytic converter being plugged.

How far do you want to get into checking/repairing this 27 year old van??
 
  #5  
Old 07-18-2017, 11:33 PM
eureka16
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The link would be great. I'm game as far as getting into repair. The catalytic converter is new. New dual exhaust system less than a year old. I am going to do some sensor checking and cleaning this weekend. I do not have a check engine light on, however, it could be something not triggering a warning. The van is my baby. A "Happy Times" conversion. 115K miles. I have taken good care of it. I am interested in relocating the ICM. Other than that, recent tune-up, injectors changed out last year.
 
  #6  
Old 07-19-2017, 08:18 PM
Wildman25
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Here's the Link.

Photo's are down cause of PhotoBucket's little joke on us

Read thru that link and you should be able to move the ICM to a more "air flow" area in the engine bay. Later '92+ era had the ICM mounter to the driver side fender, and solved the heat soak problems.
 
  #7  
Old 07-21-2017, 08:47 AM
quaddriver
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There is a well established procedure to move the TFI to the fenderwell but it has some caveats not well published which I will go over in a moment.

BUT first.

When the TFI goes bat***** it does so at all moments, not just shifting. RPM drop from Gear to N or R is generally a sign that the ISC/BPA needs a good cleaning or replacing. 2 bolts to get off the TB, 2 more bolts to separate the bypass chamber and a good carb gumout/pipe cleaner application works. Any and all hangup of the pintle - replace.

Now to the TFI relocation. IT is VERY VERY VERY (times 10) important that the 3 wires that connect the 'slave' TFI to the working TFI be shielded from RFI. They must be in a metallic conduit, foil, cage - whatever AND VERY VERY VERY (times 20) that this metal be grounded on the WORKING TFI side **ONLY** unless you want to learn what tesla knew about ground loops.

And since the working TFI now plugs its 3 prong upper edge into nothing, not only must those pines be broken off, they need to be seriously insulated from the absolutely required heat sink.

So what do you do? head to a boneyard and find a BLACK TFI equipped vehicle (truck, van, car) and take the fenerwell mounted heatsink only.

Then take your suspect TFI mounted to the dizzy and use that as the slave or passthru. the diagram shows which wires to cut. splice in the shielded cable (you can get from home depot, it is better to use more than 1 small gauge cable to eliminate EMF coupling within the sheath) and on the new, just got from rock auto TFI, bust off the 3 tabs and fully insulate AND grease this (thermal conductive compound) to the heat sink.

Its about 2 hours of your life if you are a NOOB that can hack solder and shrink wrap, less than an hour if you are an artist with a soldering pencil. Do not ever use crimp connectors. they will corrode in air and drop connection, giving you a whole set of fun experiences at night, in rain, on vampyre infested back roads....
 
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Old 07-21-2017, 08:45 PM
Wildman25
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Originally Posted by quaddriver View Post
There is a well established procedure to move the TFI to the fenderwell but it has some caveats not well published which I will go over in a moment.

BUT first.

When the TFI goes bat***** it does so at all moments, not just shifting. RPM drop from Gear to N or R is generally a sign that the ISC/BPA needs a good cleaning or replacing. 2 bolts to get off the TB, 2 more bolts to separate the bypass chamber and a good carb gumout/pipe cleaner application works. Any and all hangup of the pintle - replace.

Now to the TFI relocation. IT is VERY VERY VERY (times 10) important that the 3 wires that connect the 'slave' TFI to the working TFI be shielded from RFI. They must be in a metallic conduit, foil, cage - whatever AND VERY VERY VERY (times 20) that this metal be grounded on the WORKING TFI side **ONLY** unless you want to learn what tesla knew about ground loops.

And since the working TFI now plugs its 3 prong upper edge into nothing, not only must those pines be broken off, they need to be seriously insulated from the absolutely required heat sink.

So what do you do? head to a boneyard and find a BLACK TFI equipped vehicle (truck, van, car) and take the fenerwell mounted heatsink only.

Then take your suspect TFI mounted to the dizzy and use that as the slave or passthru. the diagram shows which wires to cut. splice in the shielded cable (you can get from home depot, it is better to use more than 1 small gauge cable to eliminate EMF coupling within the sheath) and on the new, just got from rock auto TFI, bust off the 3 tabs and fully insulate AND grease this (thermal conductive compound) to the heat sink.

Its about 2 hours of your life if you are a NOOB that can hack solder and shrink wrap, less than an hour if you are an artist with a soldering pencil. Do not ever use crimp connectors. they will corrode in air and drop connection, giving you a whole set of fun experiences at night, in rain, on vampyre infested back roads....
quaddriver.......very interesting that you mention to use shielded cable for the extension wires, makes very good sense.

Ahh......but you forgot to post the link for the 'well established procedure'
This I want to see too.
 
  #9  
Old 07-21-2017, 09:15 PM
quaddriver
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I will have to look for it, I myself got the SCM for the wiring from a link on here so I know it exists .... or will go 404 when we search

Update: in 2009 I got a picture from a guy named 'Bill K' who handles as 'subford', however, the picture link no longer works and I dunno if he has been around...send him a PM or I will.

I got this from the thread I started when I did the same work.
 

Last edited by quaddriver; 07-22-2017 at 11:56 AM. Reason: found add'l info
 
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