Not to get political here but that's definitely not even a consideration in my move. I can't think of anyone I've met in the 18-40 age bracket that has moved out of state for lower taxes. Lower real estate costs maybe haha. The tax rate isn't really a burden at all in my life and I probably make more here than I would in any other state, gross and net. I'd stay if I could and likely will but girlfriend's career is much more location based than mine hence a possible move.

 

Man, that inline 6 looks great! Love the red tips on the fan too!

 

Yes, I like his painted fan blades too and am considering it for my 226.

Or I can put a label like this on the upper valance for my own benefit. I've had some close calls.

 

Engine looks great. Glad you found the problem. Somewhere I have one of these. Makes cleaning old piston grooves a snap.

 

Is this the correct layout for the carb? I believe this is the carb from a 254 judging by the fuel inlet. The throttle butterfly valve only opens 2/3 to vertical with this layout. Is that normal?

 

Here is how the choke is on my 226. I don't have the lever on my choke setup that you have connected to your link.

 

Happy New Year everyone. I just found this thread and had to read it all since I'm getting ready to start working on my one 48 F1 with 226. Mine has been sitting for about 5 years since a rod started knocking. It had extremely low oil pressure (5lbs), so I'm sure that has something to do with the rod knocking. Anyway, I'll start my own thread when I start working on mine. Thanks to everyone who have commented on this thread, I've already learned tons. I also moved out of CA for cost of living. We love Idaho.

 

Updates...


1) No spark after switching to solid state + flamethrower coil. Solid grounds all around. Conrod cap on #5 piston seizes the motor at anything over finger tight torque. 10 lb ft? Seized. Everything else spins freely. Definitely a new issue that didn't happen 3 weeks ago.


2) Moving into a new house in Belmont Shore, LB and been too busy packing.


3) Had my wheels sandblasted and powdercoated.


4) New 2 car garage will let me ship the F4 from Boise to Long Beach next month.


5) Mandatory 4 weeks off of work in March...4 weeks of Ford I guess!


6) 50% raise at work that will help expedite this project ha.


Happy New Year everyone.

 

Figured it out. Didn't put that thick spacer back in under the carb and it interfered with the throttle linkage motion.





Idaho is a great place. Looking to buy a rental place or two up there this year. But my GF and I would take a roughly 70% paycut to move out there..even with COL adjustment I'd be coming out significantly worse off.

 

Are you still in Boise, or just your F4 is?

 

My F4 is in my storage unit in Nampa. I've been living in Hollywood, moving over to Long Beach now. I used to be in Boise every other month but haven't made it up in awhile. Likely shoot to be there within a month.

 

Oh, gotcha. We moved up here from Pismo Beach.

 

So back to the issue of a wrong bearing..

Long story short I have all NOS .030" rod bearings. 1,2,3,4,6 tighten to spec (50 lb ft) and the motor turns just fine. #5 I tighten past finger tight and it seizes the motor. Finally got some plastigauge in there and I'm seeing 0.0015" which is a little on the tight side but surely not enough to seize the motor right?

I thought maybe it's jamming on something else but with the rod cap seated with bearings but not fully torqued it all rotates just fine..it's only when I make that leap from 15 lb ft to 50 lb ft that the motor is physically impossible to rotate even with a 3' breaker bar.

What is going on...please...before I just buy some horses and tow the truck around town instead.

Alex

 

Have you checked for a bent rod? Does the new bearing insert show contact on the outer edges? How about between the rods and between the #5 rod and the crank radius? I don't remember on these engines if it matters how the rod is installed in the piston to give some offset, but it does on some others. Have you tried rotating #5 piston/rod 180 degrees?

 

Personally, I would remove the piston and rod assembly and remove the piston from the rod by unclipping the retaining ring and removing the wrist pin. With the piston removed, tighten the rod to the crank journal and see if you can easily move the rod once it is torqued correctly. It should move rather easily unless it is binding side to side or it it too tight on the journal. If it moves easily as expected, I would be looking at replacing the connecting rod.