That's my tomorrow plan. I mostly wanted to check fit and wiring, especially that ground on the right side.

I have a wire brush, flathead, and a gallon of rust converter.

 

I wholeheartedly agree. Are those weights frozen by any chance?


And by the way, did you fit the piston rings to the cylinders? Was the end gap ok? This could be one of the causes of a tight engine.

 

Will check again today.

End gap was within spec on all pistons.

 

0.020" is fine for the setup you have. In my experience, hand-honed cylinder surfaces come out much rougher than machine-honed, and there is a lot of ring seating initially. If you feel it hanging up when pistons get to the top of their strokes, that could be bad, rings catching on the old ridge area. Crank it thru 20 - 30 rev's by hand, with plenty of oil, I think you'll find it loosens up pretty quick.

 

I did a pretty solid ridge ream, no discernible ridge with my finger nail. I don't feel any hangups anywhere in the cycle but the breaker bar is much tougher to crank than it used to be so I just want to confirm.

My alt was shipped with the wrong bolt orientation and my spark plugs don't fit at all..so time to sit and wait.

 

Snapped two bolts today, one original one grade 5. Not sure how that happened. Extractor tool failed me too..so I'm waiting on a bigger harder version to arrive via Amazon Prime.

 

Also, how the F does this breaker plate come out of the housing? I found the tiny snap ring, removed that and removed the vacuum advance. What am I missing?

 

I'd be thinking about a replacement distributor? Looks pretty crusty in there. Bushings are probably shot, too. Pertronix is very forgiving of excessive mechanical clearance and slop compared to points but it will run noticeably smoother with a tight unit. Since you went through all the trouble and expense of an engine rebuild, don't cheap out now. Ask me how I know.

 

Take the two advance return springs off, then pull the plate straight up. Keep track of where each spring goes, it matters.

If that doesn't do it, just stick it in a bucket of cleaner overnight, and clean what you can.

 

do I need to remove the cam? If so, how? Springs are off, retaining clip is off, I can only get the breaker plate to lift maybe 1/8” before it hits the cam lobes.

 

If that's the case, then it is like the V8's, you would have to punch the pin that holds the distributor gear on, pull the gear, then the shaft. I would NOT do it, it is a horrid job. I destroyed the gear on one getting it off. If the shaft turns freely and doesn't have a lot of side play, just clean it up as best you can with it together.

 

Thanks for the help! It turns freely and no discernible side play, I'll get it cleaned up and derusted on Friday.

 

If you're not in a hurry, about a 10% solution of molasses and water is an amazing rust remover. Submerge the whole shootin' match for a couple weeks.

 

I use Evaporust..never found a better remover.

 

Reform that ground wire to take that sharp bend out of it. It should be formed to a wide bend so it flexes throughout the bend. If you can source a screw, replace that one that has been mutilated beyond belief. Order the correct primary wire. Don't lose the clip at the end of the shaft.
No disrespect intended but that is the nastiest looking distributor I've seen.