So I am really confused by this problem. I have 12 volts thought the Brake Light switch on the Brake Pedal. The Turn Signals are working, The Running Lights are Working but the Brake Lights are not working. I have tried to find a 1971 Schematic for the truck but it seems they all go from 1970 to 1972. Is the 71 the same as the 70 and the 72? I have gotten under the truck and wiggled wires and looked everywhere for the problem. I am getting a little worried about this problem because I need to have it working properly by Monday because I am having the Radius Arm Bushings Replaced. They worked fine when I brought the truck home a week ago and the only thing I have done to it was to try to get the Temp Guage Working with no sucsess but I know now that the Guage isnt working. Please could anyone shed some light on this problem and give me a hand with troubleshooting procedures? Thanks In Advance.

 

Are the bulbs burnt? they should be a two element bulb. #2 what kind of bulbs do you have? if they are LED you need to add a resistor to them or they will stop working. You check the fuse under the dash and the flasher relay?

 

1157 Bulbs, There are two flasher relays under the dash but the one that the wiring goes to from the Brake Switch seems to be working. Normal Lights not LED. I have 12 volts to the Switch and I Jumpered them and they still dont work. and I replaced the Bulbs with new ones and it still doesn't work. The bulbs work for Turn Signals and Running Lights but not the Brake Lites.

 

Just because you're getting 12 v to the switch, doesn't mean the toggle is working.

 

I checked the Switch with the Multimeter and it is making and Braking and I jumpered the plug and it still doesn't work. Then I cut the Plug out just to make sure it wasn't a bad connection in the plug and tied the two wires together and it still doesn't work.

 

I will say that the wiring in this truck looks like a Spagetti Nightmare!!! But Im still puzzled by the Fact that the Turn Signals and Running Lights work but the Brake Lights dont... I understand that a Loose connection in the Turn Signal switch could be causing this problem as well. Seems like the Problem has to be somewhere in the Cab Area but not sure. Is there a Break or a Plug in the Engine Compartment that I Could Take apart to check and Isolate further?

 

Just fixed a similiar problem in my 72, I had constant 12v to one side of my brake switch but would only get 12 volt going to the brake lights if I pulled the bulbs out... if I put them back in then I would lose my constant 12v whenever I pushed the brake pedal but it would come back whenever I released it, weird I know. So i ended up running a wire straight off the battery with a inline fuse to one side of the switch and voila I now had power going to the brake lights when I pushed the brake pedal even with bulbs in, and the brake lights started working.

try it and see what happens

 

pat420swed
I was just about to try that. This is so weird and Its making me crazy!!! Thanks for the Suggestion and I will give that a Try. I need to also adjust the Brake sw. Holder because the switch is bottomed out and I cant adjust it anymore. The Previous owner seemed to love those press splices because they are all over this truck... I just need to get this thing mobile before next Monday!!!

 

When the Wire leaves the Switch does it go through any other contact points, Light Switch, Flasher or anywhere else that could be the problem? I wiggled the Turn Signal Switch and nothing happened I found some Crappy Splices for a Trailer Light Hookup and the rest of the Harness looks like its been unmolested since 1971.

 

There are TWO different flashers. Both are round with 2 prongs, but the 4 way flasher is a H/D unit, has a louder CLICK.

T/S flasher plugs into the back of the instrument cluster at the upper left.

4 way flasher nestles into a bracket that attaches to the backside of the dash w/a screw.

The 4 way flasher was also used as the T/S flasher for: Camper Specials, cars with trailer tow (and 1973/79 Trailer Specials) and was installed by dealers for people that were deaf.

 

 

^ Wrong tailgate finish panel for Ranger XLT. This type installed on 1968/69 Custom Cab/Ranger & 1970 Sport Custom.

Ranger XLT introduced in 1970, has 3 5/8" wide upper body side mouldings with wood grain inserts (decals). The HUGE tailgate finish panel also has a wood grain insert (decal).

1970/72 Rangers use similar 3 5/8" wide upper body side mouldings and tailgate finish panel, but the mouldings have painted black inserts. The tailgate finish panel does not have a wood grained insert.

 

I promise I wont tell anyone if you don't!!! Its going to have a White Hood also here in a short while being the one on it is smashed.

 

 

Just remembered that I have this picture, here you go.
Helped me with some of my problems