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Help! Can't get it to idle after rebuild.

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  #31  
Old 07-13-2017, 11:51 PM
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no codes came up, 11 or any other. I jumpered the plug. The dash lights were supposed to flash and give me codes... No flashing lights.

I'll buy code reader tomorrow. Had praise band practice tonight.

I haven't changed the throttle position sensor, but I did put a new IAC on. It was removed when i cleaned the throttle body.

It sounds like I'm pulling the intake. I will need to do that to get to the injectors.

I didn't realize you could buy just the seals for the injectors. I will pull those and check them.

I hate taking apart what I paid someone else to do, but I've done a 6 cylinder intake before.

I've not pulled injectors or installed them before on a Ford. I have an 82 Mercedes diesel and changed those injectors, but they screw in.

Thank you for your guidance.

You guys are the bomb.
 
  #32  
Old 07-14-2017, 06:35 AM
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Please slow down. Don't if you've got plenty of time & cash to throw at this with no results except aggravation.

It helps to answer questions posed in a timely manner.

New question: Turn key to on. Does the check engine light come on with all other indicator lights?

If not it's a bulb. If so, it's probably the computer & nothing you replace or do is going to help.
 
  #33  
Old 07-14-2017, 08:20 AM
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Yesterday I plugged all the lines to the main vac and the idle went down... somewhat, but not perfect. When hooking the MAP back up, it went back to high idle. So I replaced it with a new one... again.

It's the only line that made any difference.

I got a schematic and traced all the vacuum lines. One was broken clean off and another was very loose. fixing/replacing those made no noticeable difference,

I will get a code reader today and run codes with it. (the self-test jumping across the connector with a wire produced no flashing codes on dash)

The plan, at the moment is to pull the intake, replace injector seals and permatex gaskets. The guy who worked on it last said no sealant was required for intake gasket. I'll redo EGR connection while at it.

Thanks for all the help.
 
  #34  
Old 07-14-2017, 08:37 AM
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OK, I'm out. Good luck with your truck.
 
  #35  
Old 07-14-2017, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Scndsin
OK, I'm out. Good luck with your truck.
^^^ I can't help you either without your help. GL Sandy
 
  #36  
Old 07-14-2017, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by jstuller
I went this morning to the junkyard and pulled three and chose one that was really tight out of a 95. (same part 87-96). It is a Motorcraft.
Another visual is holding the TB up in the light, if you see light coming thru the valves, you may have an un-metered air leak thru the valves.
 
  #37  
Old 07-14-2017, 10:46 AM
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If you are going to do your own work, you will need to invest into some tools. Unless you have a good borrow source. It is difficult to determine 750 rpm from 900 rpm.
 
  #38  
Old 07-14-2017, 10:48 AM
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Have you checked your base timing?
 
  #39  
Old 07-14-2017, 12:01 PM
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Sorry guys, I am new to this and didn't see the numbers at the bottom that took me to the next page of posts. I was looking, but not in the right place for your responses.

I apologize.

No check engine light when I turn the ignition on or start engine. I will start with that this morning.

The timing was set at rebuild. I was there and helped turn the crank. Number 1 on TDC. From there, a timing light was used to set.

I can check the butterfly valves when I take it off, but it displays the same problem with 2 different throttle bodies, and it wasn't doing it before.

I am really sorry for my ineptness at knowing how to work the screens. I really appreciate your efforts.

Thank you for the directions you've already sent me.
 
  #40  
Old 07-14-2017, 12:19 PM
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Maybe I'm off base but does it idle down when you unplug the IAC while running?

Definitely check codes.
 
  #41  
Old 07-14-2017, 12:20 PM
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Cool. If you are strictly a mobile user, it's understandable. Try looking at the site in regular view.

If the bulb is burned out, then go ahead with scanner (Equis 3145, Ford specific OBD1 scanner is best, cheapest)

You still might not get anything, but a diagnosis/repair plan is better than adding more too your issue.

These engines don't generally need additional sealant, so don't be in a hurry to open it up.
 
  #42  
Old 07-14-2017, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by GoinBoarding
Maybe I'm off base but does it idle down when you unplug the IAC while running?

Definitely check codes.
No difference in idle with IaC disconnected.

I was pulling dash to change bulb and decided to check messages.

on way to get code reAder

thank you for your patience
 
  #43  
Old 07-14-2017, 12:33 PM
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Now you are cooking. Good. It is BEST to answer ALL the questions posed to you by the forum members you want to work with. If you don't answer they will go away as you found out. It is also best not to do anything until you have cleared it with who is helping you so you don't complicate the issues. I know from experience as I have no electrical talent at all (I am trying to learn) and I have been through this like you. These guys will get you going if you do it the right way and cooperate to the fullest.
 
  #44  
Old 07-14-2017, 12:36 PM
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A test we did with Sandy may be worth a try, when you get a chance.

If your TB valves have a hole in each valve, put a small piece of tape over each hole to see if this affects your Idle.
 

Last edited by vjsimone; 07-14-2017 at 01:31 PM. Reason: Removed Text
  #45  
Old 07-14-2017, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by vjsimone
A test we did with Sandy may be worth a try, when you get a chance.

If your TB valves have a hole in each valve, put a small piece of tape over each hole to see if this affects your Idle.

But, before that, do test in Post #40....

FOR THE ORIGINAL POSTER
The tape would go on the inlet side of the butterflys (where the air cleaner tubes go) and DON"T give it gas AT ALL or you might suck the tape in the TB and manifold. Remove tape when done and report your findings and get further instructions.
 


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