Well I'm David too... though you might not see the Sig.

 

[QUOTE=Scndsin;17324940]What ever you do, don't clean the TB blades. That can create the very problem you are trying to solve.

Are you blades you are mentioning the same as what some would call the butterfly valves? If so why can't you clean them? I thought the no clean sticker was for the Throttle body itself. Thanks Sandy

 

Define "tight" when you get the chance....

 

FYI - When Capping off vacuum lines for testing, there may be 2 additional vacuum ports/lines under the TB, right side, coming from the Charcoal Filter Canister.

 

Someone else can correct me if I'm wrong, but as far as I know it's the inside bores & blades/butterflys which are all specially coated.

The outside as is just the same as a carb for all I know.

The TPS being on the bottom, might get damaged I guess from cleaner running down into it.

 

[QUOTE=Scndsin;17326013]Someone else can correct me if I'm wrong, but as far as I know it's the inside bores & blades/butterflys which are all specially coated.


I wouldn't doubt it which is why I asked. Of course I cleaned my blades and polished them >

 

Time was short today, but I capped off all lines, including pcv), and the idle went down... somewhat. Reconnecting the MAP, sent the idle speed crazy high. Replaced it again, no change.

Having the fuel pressure regulator capped or connected to the main vac made no change

No rust on vacuum canister. Took it off and checked it all over. repainted it to add more coating/assurance no pin holes.

Bought new vacuum lines and check routing. Sure enough, the one connected to the SOL V TAB that goes to the ACV was broken off in the back of the engine. repaired. (no noticeable change).

I replaced brake master cylinder and booster when I bought it, but plugged that line too to take it out of the equation... no difference.

sprayed all around the intake with wd-40, & the egr, no effect.

Tomorrow I'll start with EGR...again, unless I've given some new clues.

I am going to check on code reader. The self-test gave me nothing.

 

When I said I replaced the MAP sensor again, I mean I bought and installed a replacement again. (thought the first one was faulty)

 

vjsimone asked "Define "tight" when you get the chance...."

When checking the action on the shaft that holds the butterfly valves, there was no play in them. They had a distinctly "new" feel to them.

The springs that hold tension on them were neatly wound and held accurate pressure.

 

Did you get the 11 pass code when you checked codes?

 

I did clear the the whole thing with carburetor cleaner.... oops.

Can it cause this same problem immediately after cleaning?

 

I think the coating is to prevent carbon buildup. I don't think you will have an immediate problem with it. Probably just need to clean it in the future again but?

 

I had the TPI off when cleaning the throttle body.

 

If you are talking about the IAC then you did good. ONE MORE TIME Did you get the 11 Pass code when you read codes???

 

Don't know if this could be your problem, but I recently fixed a vacuum leak that I just could not find for the longest. I tried everything, but the real problem was a lack of imagination. My issue was old rock hard and shrunk fuel injector seals.

Did you go with new injector o-rings on your rebuild? If not is is a possibility.

A few years previously I had a high idle issue and the only way I could fix it was doing what you are not supposed to do. I adjusted the throttle butterfly to be "more closed" at idle.

You problem just about has to be an air leak. Keep looking...