The Official Happy Hour Thread - Pull Up A Chair, Sit A Spell, What's The Latest?
#31
07-14-2017, 04:38 PM
Aluminum blocks, heads, and even fuel lines hold up to petroleum products pretty well, but if you're really concerned, KBS Coatings has stuff you can line the inside of a fuel tank with. I bet that would work for your pump, if it can be thinned enough to properly coat all of the smaller passages.
Stewart
#32
07-14-2017, 10:21 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2013
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Too much to quote, but I'll jump in.
The fuel cell (deemed the MOAS) is indeed considered not serviceable, due to parts not being available. The decision for this approach was done in a room w/ many liability Lawyers, a coupla/3 Engineers, and someone from the USCG.
These folks (well, most of them) were terrified that someone working under the shade of a tree, might dive in to a high pressure (gasoline) fuel system, located in a bilge, and possibly cut a corner or miss something.
And so, an un-servicable item, with powder-coat mistakenly applied to a surface in contact with gas (worse, an ethanol-like solvent) created this debacle.
Sidenote-While the Torx screws used to assemble are not considered "Tamper-proof", the first time you disassembled it, you might recall you had to dig out epoxy for the torx-bit. This epoxy was the "tattletell" that someone tampered w/ the MOAS. I'll let you guess who insisted on this and why.
Do not worry about corrosion affecting the inside of the bowl. If H2O is getting past the filter(s), especially the one actually on the MOAS, you'd have bigger problems. Leave it bare and let your filter/separator prevent the corrosion's cause.
* Disclaimer* The following are suggestions on servicing a non-serviceable VP MOAS fuel cell from a tired, upper middle-aged guy w/ poor memory and far too many miles.
Use Lacquer Thinner/MEK, or similar, to remove paint/PC from inside of cell.
Replace all o-rings. You will have to go aftermarket. This includes the o-rings on the lines themselves. They really are sacrificial and not intended for re-use. Use motor oil on them and their ports on reassembly.
Fill a new filter prior to install & initial dry start. The "first" pump is a low pressure pump, its "lift" ability is next to nil. Neither the LP or HP pump tolerates any dry running.
Cycle the key several times to let the pumps run to get fuel psi up prior to starting..all while checking for leaks. (Unplug the high side, and just run the LP for 1st leak check)
Above all else, make sure you have no leaks after reassembly....all with new o-rings.
Did mention to use new, (correct material Nitrile) o-rings, and check for leaks?
MOAS...Mother Of All (fuel) Systems....Wadn't me, I was too busy dealing w/the green ones.
The fuel cell (deemed the MOAS) is indeed considered not serviceable, due to parts not being available. The decision for this approach was done in a room w/ many liability Lawyers, a coupla/3 Engineers, and someone from the USCG.
These folks (well, most of them) were terrified that someone working under the shade of a tree, might dive in to a high pressure (gasoline) fuel system, located in a bilge, and possibly cut a corner or miss something.
And so, an un-servicable item, with powder-coat mistakenly applied to a surface in contact with gas (worse, an ethanol-like solvent) created this debacle.
Sidenote-While the Torx screws used to assemble are not considered "Tamper-proof", the first time you disassembled it, you might recall you had to dig out epoxy for the torx-bit. This epoxy was the "tattletell" that someone tampered w/ the MOAS. I'll let you guess who insisted on this and why.
Do not worry about corrosion affecting the inside of the bowl. If H2O is getting past the filter(s), especially the one actually on the MOAS, you'd have bigger problems. Leave it bare and let your filter/separator prevent the corrosion's cause.
* Disclaimer* The following are suggestions on servicing a non-serviceable VP MOAS fuel cell from a tired, upper middle-aged guy w/ poor memory and far too many miles.
Use Lacquer Thinner/MEK, or similar, to remove paint/PC from inside of cell.
Replace all o-rings. You will have to go aftermarket. This includes the o-rings on the lines themselves. They really are sacrificial and not intended for re-use. Use motor oil on them and their ports on reassembly.
Fill a new filter prior to install & initial dry start. The "first" pump is a low pressure pump, its "lift" ability is next to nil. Neither the LP or HP pump tolerates any dry running.
Cycle the key several times to let the pumps run to get fuel psi up prior to starting..all while checking for leaks. (Unplug the high side, and just run the LP for 1st leak check)
Above all else, make sure you have no leaks after reassembly....all with new o-rings.
Did mention to use new, (correct material Nitrile) o-rings, and check for leaks?
MOAS...Mother Of All (fuel) Systems....Wadn't me, I was too busy dealing w/the green ones.
#33
07-15-2017, 05:01 AM
Cargo Master
We call this "yardkill". It is the good parts of an old Kawasaki Mule 500. It has the fe290 industrial motor that was used in a lot of golf carts and other than needing re-ringed and belching oil smoke and, it runs pretty good. Also repels bugs. It might be the most fun $100 can legally buy you on Craigslist. It will be this Winters welding project.
#34
07-15-2017, 03:40 PM
Cargo Master
I bought a John Deere L100 this spring that had a blown engine, I put a 20 year old Craftsman engine in it, added an electric fuel pump and cut off switch. The rascal runs good. I am having belt issues. Now that most of the car emergencies are done for now I want to see if I can get this FrankenDeere cutting the grass.
#35
07-15-2017, 04:37 PM
Lead Driver
Found a game on the phone, very addicting. I've never played any online games but this is a trivia game. You pick your topic(s) and play against random opponents, friends or play against the bot with wild card questions.
My topics: US States, US Historical Figures, US Presidents, MLB Basics and a few others.
My topics: US States, US Historical Figures, US Presidents, MLB Basics and a few others.
#36
07-17-2017, 10:21 AM
Too much to quote, but I'll jump in.
The fuel cell (deemed the MOAS) is indeed considered not serviceable, due to parts not being available. The decision for this approach was done in a room w/ many liability Lawyers, a coupla/3 Engineers, and someone from the USCG.
These folks (well, most of them) were terrified that someone working under the shade of a tree, might dive in to a high pressure (gasoline) fuel system, located in a bilge, and possibly cut a corner or miss something.
And so, an un-servicable item, with powder-coat mistakenly applied to a surface in contact with gas (worse, an ethanol-like solvent) created this debacle.
Sidenote-While the Torx screws used to assemble are not considered "Tamper-proof", the first time you disassembled it, you might recall you had to dig out epoxy for the torx-bit. This epoxy was the "tattletell" that someone tampered w/ the MOAS. I'll let you guess who insisted on this and why.
Do not worry about corrosion affecting the inside of the bowl. If H2O is getting past the filter(s), especially the one actually on the MOAS, you'd have bigger problems. Leave it bare and let your filter/separator prevent the corrosion's cause.
* Disclaimer* The following are suggestions on servicing a non-serviceable VP MOAS fuel cell from a tired, upper middle-aged guy w/ poor memory and far too many miles.
Use Lacquer Thinner/MEK, or similar, to remove paint/PC from inside of cell.
Replace all o-rings. You will have to go aftermarket. This includes the o-rings on the lines themselves. They really are sacrificial and not intended for re-use. Use motor oil on them and their ports on reassembly.
Fill a new filter prior to install & initial dry start. The "first" pump is a low pressure pump, its "lift" ability is next to nil. Neither the LP or HP pump tolerates any dry running.
Cycle the key several times to let the pumps run to get fuel psi up prior to starting..all while checking for leaks. (Unplug the high side, and just run the LP for 1st leak check)
Above all else, make sure you have no leaks after reassembly....all with new o-rings.
Did mention to use new, (correct material Nitrile) o-rings, and check for leaks?
MOAS...Mother Of All (fuel) Systems....Wadn't me, I was too busy dealing w/the green ones.
The fuel cell (deemed the MOAS) is indeed considered not serviceable, due to parts not being available. The decision for this approach was done in a room w/ many liability Lawyers, a coupla/3 Engineers, and someone from the USCG.
These folks (well, most of them) were terrified that someone working under the shade of a tree, might dive in to a high pressure (gasoline) fuel system, located in a bilge, and possibly cut a corner or miss something.
And so, an un-servicable item, with powder-coat mistakenly applied to a surface in contact with gas (worse, an ethanol-like solvent) created this debacle.
Sidenote-While the Torx screws used to assemble are not considered "Tamper-proof", the first time you disassembled it, you might recall you had to dig out epoxy for the torx-bit. This epoxy was the "tattletell" that someone tampered w/ the MOAS. I'll let you guess who insisted on this and why.
Do not worry about corrosion affecting the inside of the bowl. If H2O is getting past the filter(s), especially the one actually on the MOAS, you'd have bigger problems. Leave it bare and let your filter/separator prevent the corrosion's cause.
* Disclaimer* The following are suggestions on servicing a non-serviceable VP MOAS fuel cell from a tired, upper middle-aged guy w/ poor memory and far too many miles.
Use Lacquer Thinner/MEK, or similar, to remove paint/PC from inside of cell.
Replace all o-rings. You will have to go aftermarket. This includes the o-rings on the lines themselves. They really are sacrificial and not intended for re-use. Use motor oil on them and their ports on reassembly.
Fill a new filter prior to install & initial dry start. The "first" pump is a low pressure pump, its "lift" ability is next to nil. Neither the LP or HP pump tolerates any dry running.
Cycle the key several times to let the pumps run to get fuel psi up prior to starting..all while checking for leaks. (Unplug the high side, and just run the LP for 1st leak check)
Above all else, make sure you have no leaks after reassembly....all with new o-rings.
Did mention to use new, (correct material Nitrile) o-rings, and check for leaks?
MOAS...Mother Of All (fuel) Systems....Wadn't me, I was too busy dealing w/the green ones.
#37
07-21-2017, 02:50 PM
Found a game on the phone, very addicting.
Stewart
#38
07-30-2017, 06:37 PM
Lead Driver
Well there's a meteor shower and a Total Solar Eclipse
just like
sang about. An apricot scarf and all.
For Buddha's sake I've got to put new injectors in.
just like
For Buddha's sake I've got to put new injectors in.
#39
07-31-2017, 04:01 PM
Posting Guru
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Almost back in TX biotche
Posts: 1,711
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So my business partner signed us up for this thing..... August 11th. Link for info below....yes there will be pictures, don't worry.
https://www.firstgiving.com/fundrais...her-shoes-2017
#40
07-31-2017, 04:38 PM
Elder User
#43
07-31-2017, 09:20 PM
#45
08-01-2017, 07:43 AM
