351m the choke isn't setting in the carb,It did well and good and just started this latetly, And the valves aren't great- but it smooths out really well when hot.If you can stand the time it takes warm this "cold blooded" ford up,Anyone have tips i might use ? Noone around my neck of the woods- is available for help.All the vacume hoses are good although original. I it mean will not kick the choke throttle plate closed , it used to snap it right shut, when this 351 was cold and running good.Truck .. My dad gave to me in his will. He bought it new- little history there . Its always been housed . bob s

thank you for reading this note

 

I presume you're referring to an automatic (electric) choke?

The factory choke is different from aftermarket choke, but neither need vacuum.

The factory choke is AC and is powered by the stud on the alternator.

Aftermarket chokes are DC and are powered by a switched hot.

The AC hot from the alternator is hard to measure with a cheap meter because it's actually AC. On DC chokes, sometimes the wire comes off or a fuse blows

Either way, the choke should be "set" by pressing the gas pedal all the way to the floor. The linkage will then engage a cam. The cam is adjusted by turning the black round choke housing. Full closed should be about 1/8" upen.

You can give the choke power (make sure it's the correct type-AC or DC) and watch it open. It should open fully vertical after about a minute

 

If it's taking a long time to warm up, someone might've put in a too-cold thermostat or something.
Maybe some dirt or gunk is causing the linkage to hang up. You mean when you tap the accelerator, the choke doesn't snap shut like it did?

 

The thermostat is really slow at getting the proper heat up in the motor,Its pretty old! (t-stat)May be 15 years ago at a wild guess. Thourghly sprayed the whole carb. linkage both sides with carb cleaner.. then w-d 40 And its not electric made sure it is working properly freed up. Sorry i forgot that and do apprciate your help , At my age this happens {forgetting}What ese can i try we are in the same ba park on my thoughts too.


ps; I did turn the black housing towards richer ......It was turned back again by me , but still on the lean side. bob s

 

Does it have a Vacuum Choke Pull-Off device ?

So, absolutely nothing was done, modified, or adjusted prior to your problem ?

 

THE choke pull off is the small daphram ---on the intake manifold?,Theres is a steel like tube, going into the intake. i think it goes to the carb around in back??? not sure, everything else is as i stated. thank you -vjsimone. bob s

Picture of 3 ford trucks above. The goldish brown looks just like mine- BUT MINES A f-150 PAPABEARYUMA S TRUCKS


PAPABEARYuma So theres a fused line...from the battery to the carburetor there somewhere,is that a fueable link type? thanks bob s

 

BTT BTT BTT BT

 

Hi Bob,
You should have a steel tube going from the choke housing down to a plate in the intake manifold ( if you remove the plate you will see a coil of metal tubing, DON'T remove the plate unless you have a new gasket for it; I have a Felpro gasket # here somewhere).

The choke works by drawing heat from the coil in manifold to the choke housing, SO 1st - remove the tube from the choke housing and check for vacuum at the choke housing connection, if no vacuum the port in the choke housing may be plugged; 2nd - try blowing air thru the manifold coil; 3rd - If no air flow, try snaking a small stiff wire (speedo cable core) thru the manifold coil.

You say that you have lubricated the choke linkage etc., - with the engine off and cold, hold the throttle partly open and the choke should close fully, if not - remove the choke housing and check the condition of the thermostatic choke spring. Dunk it in a pot of hot water and you should see the spring tab move.

Then manually move the choke plate; several things should happen - the choke plate should move freely to the full closed position and the stepped fast idle lever should move freely without binding.

When you install the choke thermostatic spring back on the carb make sure that the spring tab is on the correct side of the lever that moved the choke plate. To adjust, you will see a long line and shorter lines on the thermostatic choke housing, start with setting at the long center line. You can adjust the tension by rotation the housing after you make sure all else is working properly.

Nat

 

Thank you so much 67xrkat for posting here. i will make a copy of this post if they will let me. And should i see about a gasket before i start?Or do i make a gasket.It sounds like a very special gasket from your description ??? sincerely bob s

 

The truck in the middle is a 78 F150 with a 351m. It formerly had the factory 2 barrel carb on cast iron manifold. The carb had the heat stove element that went into the intake manifold and factory AC choke. If I remember correctly, the wire for the electric choke came up in the harness with the oil pressure and coolant temp senders. The electrical diagram says that the white/black AC comes from the orange on the alternator.





I've since replaced the intake and carb, and the new Holley electric choke runs off the battery isolator

 

Hi Bob,

The gasket is a FelPro # 72579, Choke tube mounting gasket,
~ a $2.00 part from Advance Auto Parts, Summit Racing or JEGS.

Nat

 

 

Theres "no "plug in"spade terminal- tab" on the black dial ,as per.thanks for the reply bob s

 

Electric choke



Manual choke

 

Iam going to check out what was given to me from 67xr. Then i am defintely [if i can't get anywhere } with this one. Manual coke ??will it work as it should? my black cover is plain No rods sticking out of it---as needed it appears?/ bob s