Thanks

That stainless hose is for the oil? How does it attach to the engine side oil ports? Where does that hose attach?

 

Not sure I follow. I didn’t weld anything.



It used pedestal O rings similar to stock.

 

Top image you posted with blue lock tite above it..
Shows a non-factory weld of your exhaust close to where it connections to the turbo.
Brown residue and all

Kyle

 

That’s the down pipe that comes with the kit.

 

Ok, how is that downpipe fitted to your exhaust ?

Just talking out loud here , but with a stock turbo or 38R the existing downpipe bolts directly to the turbo..
How does this kit mate ?

Kyle

 

The DP attaches with a V band clamp, same as stock. I believe you’re referring to the outlet housing which bolts to the stock/38r and houses the exhaust back pressure valve. The other end of the DP has a 3.5”-4” coupler which slips over my existing exhaust near the trans cross member and gets clamped.

 

The Brad, which T4 kit did you purchase?

Did you use a flex exhaust hose like akcooper9 did?

Did you buy your turbo and T4 plumbing from the same shop?

Did you get the turbo with the .91 A/R?

akcooper told me he runs the 74mm wheel on the turbine/exhaust side, which is the same as yours. Looking at the specifications from the DP page confuses me a bit.

How does your turbo differ from the one that DP indicates?

I suppose it is a good thing, but there seems to be A LOT of choices/differences available not only on the BW 364.5, but the T4 kit as well. This makes the decision more difficult instead of a true drop in turbo that may perform identically when tuned properly.

 

I have the same kit as Akcooper from Carson Stauffer Diesel and I bought my turbo used from CJFARM111. There are 2 turbine sizes available for the 364.5, a 68mm exducer and a 74mm exducer. I had many phone conversations with Carson and he recommended the 74mm turbine. As fast as it spools up, I can’t imagine the need for the 68mm turbine. There are quite a few running the 68mm turbine with up to 175/80 injectors and are very happy. I would guess their drive pressure is a little higher at high rpm, but nothing to worry about. IMO, a 68mm turbine is better suited in a smaller displacement engine like a 5.9 or a 6.0.

I’m not a Tuner, but saying you can change tuning to make a turbo work, IMO, means you’re either pulling fuel to manage smoke because the turbo isn’t moving enough air or adding fuel and smoke to get it to light because it’s laggy at low rpm. Timing can also be manipulated, but that beyond the scope of this thread. I’ve had no tuning changes and I went from hot and Smokey to cool and clean just by changing the turbo.

There is no drop in turbo that will perform the same as an SXE! The GT38r and the KC38R have their place in the market, as do the Van turbo, Dieselsite turbo, etc. they’re all an improvement over stock, but at a price. If you’re pulling fuel or lifting the pedal to manage EGTs, you bought the wrong turbo. The only reasons I limit throttle while are because I’m going too fast, or I’m worried about blowing my trans or driveline and that all happens at under 1200*.

I didn’t use any flex. Carson’s down pipe lined up about an inch away from my Banks 4” exhaust and he supplied me with a 3.5-4” coupler. The only issue I had is that the Banks 4” pipe is actually a little bigger than others, making it the same O.D. as the coupler, so I used a lap joint exhaust clamp.

 

Exactly ,
So the kit came with a downpipe back to near your trans support ?
Any idea what the kit would be for a MBRP exhaust ??
I installed that exhaust about 6-7 years ago so don't remember where it pieces

Kyle

 

Carson T4 kit comes with a DP and DP to exhaust adapter. You'll need to cut it in which is easy work.

Been running the BW 364.5 68mm for awhile now and it is fantastic. Between that and the 1023 tunes, it runs so much better in every way than the 38R did. Very pleased with the upgrade.

 

SRBF150, since Carson doesn't really list the turbo on his site, did you call them up and pay over the phone for the T4 kit and turbo?

Why did you choose to go with the 68mm instead of the 74mm wheel? Not saying it is the right or wrong call, just curious.

 

I ordered the kit from DP Tuner who use the Carson kit thus it was pre-configured with the 68mm. Had I known there was a 74mm option, I can't say I would have chose differently or not. Generally, I don't run my truck over 2500 rpm. The days of "run it like you stole it" are long gone for me. My driving style is conservative with occasional bursts of 2500 rpm and rarely 3k let alone higher. The truck produces so much power in this range higher rpms just isn't necessary. It has considerably more ***** than my two friends 2017's in stock form. I'm sure tuning removing the DPF/EGR functions would bring them alive. The from a stop "punch" is fantastic which may be attributed to the 68 sizing. I think that if you drive like me or want to focus on off idle to 2500 performance, the 68 can be considered. This issue reminds me of camshaft sizing, more is higher rpm, less is lower range. I think the two are close enough that I wouldn't consider buying a 74 version. If i wanted more top end and loose lower end, I'd go with a 366 or 369 perhaps. This is one of the key benefits of the T4 setup, once there, you can buy a new BW turbo for a reasonable price especially if you sell the prior one and not change a thing.

 

SRBF150, do you find the power curve of the turbo peaks at around 2500 RPM for your 68mm? Not that this is a bad thing, as the power comes on sooner for you because of the smaller turbine wheel, just different. Like you, I don't prefer to run my truck in the higher RPM, but I do when climbing a grade with the trailer in tow.

Typically the truck is around 2500-3000 RPM based on speed and traffic in order to keep the turbo pushing ~28 PSI. What are your peak PSI readings when towing heavy or bursting up in speed?

I think the other fellas (akcooper and The Brad) are just under 40 PSI during these same performance measurements.

I have to be honest, the price of the T4/364.5 scares me off a bit. Despite being able to sell the OEM turbo because selling used parts is not my favorite thing to do in my spare time.

I look forward to more discussion on this topic as it is a great opportunity for everyone to learn about another option we have.

 

With my setup I've never had to pull at 40 PSI. Most hills are done at 10-25 pounds at 2000-2200 and EGTs at or below 1100 degrees. This is with stock injectors 40/65 HP tunes and 35inch tires.

With the 74mm wheel, I start making boost at 1500 RPMs. It spools lightening quick and faster (not by much) then the BB I left behind.

 

No, it doesn't seem to nose over at 3k even. Not sure if I've exceeded 3k and so far, I can't tell you the last time I floored the truck. In either towing or messing around, it has way enough to scorch the tires at part throttle. From what I've read up on it at 40psi the backpressure is 1:1 and as stated above, all my towing thus far is in the under 25 range. I can see 40 easily on the 1023 cummins killer tune though. The injectors run much cleaner than with the 38R, in this regard it is a nearly night vs day comparison. So, I think that if you want significantly top end, just choose a 366 or larger SXE!