So I just found this part of the web site. Normally hang out in the fat fender section of the site. I am going to try and blast my '53 before using epoxy primer. Told by a few people that is the way to go. So I have borrowed a small blaster and bought some glass media. It is the fine size. So what do I need to know about? What pressure should I be using? I will practice on an old tailgate first as I can't afford to wreak any of the good parts.
Thanks
Marten

 

IMHO, practice of a thin piece of sheetmetal 1st.......you should never be faced directly to the object you are blasting because you can warp the body panels because of impact pressure or heat....always at an angle.......

PSI, etc. is gun mfg spec.....Given the vehicle you are working on, IMHO, I would definitely get with someone who owns a similar unit to get pointers, and maybe some hands on experience...otherwise you may very well end up looking for replacement sheetmetal......and I am serious when I say tht you can warp a panel beyond usability.....even the ol 1053 steel.

 

Found the glass bead, alum oxide, or light medium in general can travel couple hundred yards so it is important to confine the medium so it does not impact on neighbors, or surrounding vehicles. Anyhow, food for thought?

 

First - no I have not done this just the way I am thinking.


I don't know if I would use glass bead or alum oxide on sheet metal because of the heat and warping it can cause.
I think I would look into soda blasting then if you come across rust only hit it with the glass bead or alum oxide.
I don't think walnut shell would cut into paint layers but could be wrong?


Because I don't have a blaster to strip paint & rust I use Eastwoods pads on an air grinder. 7 Inch Cleaning / Stripping Disc System

Dave ----

 

Also be aware any breathing of silica dust (by you or someone nearby) is carcinogenic. It does break down into almost a talcum power like consistency so can travel very far with even the slightest breeze. Most shops using glass beads do so in a cabinet using a air recirculating system for this reason.

 

Agree !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Thanks for the tips guys, really appreciated. I did a test sample on a fender that I will not be using for my final build. The paint came off but I was left with a satin silvery surface that was easily sanded away with some 120 grit. then I was down to raw sheet metal. Is this what I should be expecting.
Before using the epoxy primer should I still wash the metal with some metal prep product?

 

Once you sand the profile off the blasted surface with 120 grit you can prep it with some wax and grease remove or prepsol then give it a coat with etch primer before you epoxy prime it, alway wear protective gloves, spray suit and a good breathing apparatus.