I was looking for a set but ended up swapping the 4.88 gears for 4.10 since I had it apart for my locker. Keeping my eyes open for a set of 245 with an aggressive tread. Most I see are all ribs off an RV. The rear 225 on it now are a recap that came with it. Aggressive tread and seem to wear like iron. looks like I will be "stuck" with them for a few years till they wear out some or I find a 245 with similar or better tread.

edit added some comments and picture: totally agree with the rpm drop helping mpg and have the data to back it up.



Can't wait for pictures and a review. Any clue how it is coming along?

Thanks


From another thread but I have been meaning to ask:

How much delta is high or too much? 22 boost and 25 EBP ok all day? 25 boost and 30 EBP ok for a few minutes at a time? 32 boost and 40 EBP ok for 30 seconds? I have never heard any real guidelines as how much delta is too much. Also is it the percent difference or the value?

 

Really appreciate your suggestions since the vast majority of information is about automatic trucks and the zf6 shifting will affect how the turbo acts.

 

I'm not sure what delta is 'acceptable', but we are looking for 1:1 (MAP:EBP). I wish I had more time to data log the builds I finished earlier this year, but it appeared pretty close to that.

There is a HUGE difference between manual and auto trans. I actually put the engine from my Excursion in my 6spd truck and got back-to-back comparison with identical engine build. My X would bury 35psi boost gauge on demand and my 6spd seldom sees that much boost and obviously turbo lights completely different (much slower).

As far as exhaust housings go, you shouldnt compare AR size of one turbo to another. There is a massive amount of physics and math going on inside a turbo. So much, it's kinda laughable there are so many compressor wheel options nowadays. Just because you can draw (or attempt to copy) a wheel and have your CNC machine spit one out, doesn't mean you understand what it's doing...

I went back and forth with Charlie about .84 vs 1.0 ex housing for my KC366. He said some testers with .84 were having surge issues under some conditions ( hotter tunes I think) and talked me into 1.0 housing. Good call. That spools just fine - although under very rare conditions I could 'make' it surge a little as it spooled up. Once it was over about 30 psi the only surge was adrenaline. Did I mention that truck is FUN to drive??!!

On a stock turbo, even a tune pushes it beyond its design abilities. A bigger exhaust housing definitely helps keep EBP in check. I ran a van turbo with 160/0's in my X for awhile and that was a great combo. More power, lower EGT and lower EBP with literally no trade-offs.

We put a 1.0 ex housing on Mike K's truck (per recommendation from Brian Thompson) with stock injectors and tuned because he had surge problems. Well, Mike is still running that turbo after 3-4 years with 238/80's!!! Is it taking a beating with ridiculous EBP? Yep. Could he use more air on the top end in hotter tunes? Yep. But, that truck halls tail, will roast 35" tires at will, embarrass kids in tuner cars AND pulls the camper with no problem. I do think he rebuilt the turbo once and he checks for shaft play regularly...

 

What are you using to log MPG, etc??

 

Jason, in your experience would you recommend a .84 or 1.0 housing for the KC366 running 160/80 injectors on a ZF6 truck?

Same AR question, but for stock AD injectors on a ZF6 truck? Although, may want to bump down to the KC363 on stock injectors.

Speaking with Corey (CNC Fab) and Charlie (KC Turbo) about the KC38R they were both very adamant about the .84 housing being the right size for a ZF6 truck whether it was running stock or 160/80 injectors. As you mentioned, the difference in turbine pressure between an automatic truck and manual truck is huge.

Thoughts?

 

The 38r and 366 have different exhaust wheels. The 366 should out flow the 38r.

Jason how did the 366 do with the .84 did it choke out up top? Please PM me.

 

Ok thanks looks like it is time to seriously look at a new turbo

I completely agree. That is the one thing that I dislike about my manual. most of the information available is from automatic trucks.

Noted and will keep that in mind

So if I were going to order a KC366 would you reccomend a 1.0 housing on it from what you have seen?

This is why I am thinking about trying a 1.0 on my existing turbo. Figure it is cheap enough to try and I may even be satisfied long term.

is this an automatic or manual truck? Seems like the 1.0 housing on a stock turbo may be the budget friendly option for me?

It is just a spreadsheet. I have it saved out on my google account and I can open it up on my phone or the computer. Here are links to a file you should be able to copy if you want. I tried opening it in Excel and the charts look bad. You need to fill in columns A B C and E for the simple one. It has formulas to do the calculation and the chart updates.

simple link

This is the same as above but also splits out towing or not towing tanks. same as above and also add a "T" to column "I" if that tank was towing.
with towing broken out

 

Also to add IF i were to try a 1.0 ex housing on my stock turbo I assume i want the wastegated one. or is the 1.0 non wastegated a better option? (with corresponding outlet)

 

I think 1.0 will be the only option for the KC363/6/9 turbos. The tighter housing has caused surge in some of the beta applications. There was no problem spooling the KC369 with 238/100's.

For budget friendly, consider a van turbo (1.15 AR ex housing). With smaller injectors (Stage 1-2) a stock compressor wheel is fine. For small hybrids, an upgraded comp wheel should show some improvement.

I'm a big fan of hybrid injectors. 238/80's will do everything a set of AC (160/0's) will do with less ICP (better atomization), and lower EGT. The S369sxe was PERFECT with 238/80's in 6spd truck. This is what I'm going to do in my truck but with KC369 and 1.0 housing.

Wastegate depends on injectors and ultimately EBP. More 'boost' doesn't directly hurt even if it's out of turbo map - but EBP kills.

 

Time to look for a van turbo then. I found one on ebay but I am unsure it is the correct one. 1.15 ex and 1.10 air. I thought the van was 1.15 and 1.0?
ebay link
Edit or is it an early van turbo?

..

 

I agree that EBP kills, but when spinning a compressor out of its map, the extra boost is a result of heat at the expense of air density. The point of a wastegate is to keep the turbo in its map as well as reducing EBP.

 

Just a different thought for the day. I am unsure if the correct term but I will use "effective". Does anyone know the effective a/r of a .84 housing on a stock gtp38 when the wastegate is open? Also is the wastegate opening the same on the .84 and 1.0 ex housings for the stock turbo?

I was thinking of taking my spare stock .84 ex housing opening up the hole and making a larger flap. It would then spool up quick like normal then allow a little more exhaust to bypass the turbine allowing lower ebp and less egt????

Also I remember seeing a post about drilling the divider so exhaust could cross over when the wastegate is open. other than that 1 person has this been looked at?

edit found it:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ght-now-2.html

..

 

Quotes from another thread. Can that one be merged into this one by someone for me please?

​​​​​​​
going to run it like this a little bit then pull it back off and make the factory wastegate opening bigger on the Banks 1.0 housing.

​​​​​​​Need to get a boost gauge since I may exceed what my tablet can see......

 

Seems good? This kinda looks like my egt gauge an old autometer Ford racing gauge from the early 2000's or so.

What is the current recommended pillar gauge pod. I'm thinking 3 or 4 so I have room in the future.

 

Towed the Toyhauler to set it up for camping next weekend. Very happy with the 1.0 exhaust housing. Truck seemed to have more power up top and more usable power in general.

I feel that this is due to reduced back pressure / better drive ratio. I actually saw higher boost than ebp a few times. 15 boost 14 ebp. Was only momentary possibly due to wastegate opening and closing???

No lag issues for me. I was not beating on it. Rolling the Throttle on after each shift not just slamming it to the floor. VERY HAPPY !!! Well for now at least that new KC 38R 366 or the T4 Borg Warner s366 sure are really pretty....