So just got done with complete rear brake re-build to include new drums, pads, spring kit, cylinders, bearings, races, seals got hub and drum together and slipped over pads and I expected them to be a tight fit and they were. Now even with the star wheel completely backed off I can still hear and feel some drag and its a dreadful noise, note the truck is still on jack stands . So obviously the wheels dont turn free like a new mountain bike, I adjusted the E-Break and played with the star wheels to tightness and then backed off again and still some drag .... Im I to assume they are like discs and pads where once I get the truck off the jacks and drive it the pads will back off the new drums ?? I did bleed them with some nice new one way bleeders and got all the air out ...... Im beginning to think I'm over thinking this as usual.......BTW when I do spin the tires and my son presses the brake pedal the tires stop and the pedal is very firm

My second concern, I read all about the wheel bearings being diff oil lubricated, I understand that I think. When I removed the hubs some old nasty oil came out, even tho I had recently replaced the diff gear oil. When I went to top off that oil today, it was full . I jacked the truck to one side for 30 minutes and to the other for 30 minutes and the diff oil is still full, like to the bolt full .... I soaked the bearings in diff gear oil prior to hub install, will the oil get pumped down there by the axle ?? Im I loosing my mind here ?

 

The brakes sound pretty normal to me. I would try driving it a few miles and keeping an eye/ear on it, and then jack it up again and see if the dragging has subsided.

 

Hello Jake,

When the star wheel is ''completely backed off'' , the shoes would be away from the drum face, and therefore no noise and no drag, and the drum would spin freely, and not too dissimilar to a new mountain bike.

When the star wheel is adjusted so that the shoes are just kissing the drum, you would hear/feel a slight drag, but the drum would still turn relatively freely.

Does the ''dreadful noise'' sound like a grinding noise ?

Like worn disc pads grinding on a disc ?

If yes, back off your e brake cable completely. Better still, disconnect it so that you know it is not working at all.

If the dreadful noise disappears, it means the e brake cable was 'over tensioned'.

If the noise is still there, have a coffee and a marlboro !!

Did you follow the guideline in post 23 ? :

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ed-drum-2.html

When you fitted the hubs initially and hand tightened the adjusting nut, the hubs should have spun freely and quietly (slight drag sound) at that point.

Yes, the bearings are 100% lubricated by the diff oil.

The base of the filler plug threads is slightly above the base of the axle housing, which means there's enough oil to lubricate the bearings.

Run your eye along the axle housing and you'll see what I mean.

Not sure why the oil level was still 100% full. I would have expected to have to top it up with at least, say, 1/4 litre.

Mine you, I think these F trucks are magic, so you never know ! LOL

Laterz,

 

Just a thought, did you put the shoe in the drum and check the fit of the lining to the drums surface before you put it all together ? Something one should always check.

 

I did not pre-fit the shoes into drum, but did match up the old shoes and the old drums to the new ones, to make sure they were the same..... After doing some more reading it sure sounds like some drag with new drums and shoes is normal on first adjustment now im more worried about those bearings getting oil, I do not want to take those drums back off as fun as it has been

 

Well if it bothers you, jack one side up and over fill it by a half quart. It wont hurt anything, just make sure your breather tube is clear.

 

Not horrible idea, I need to check that breather box anyhow....

 

I had a problem when I replaced the drums on my '66. The store gave me the wrong ones and they were rubbing on the backing plate in a couple of spots.

 

I wouldn't worry about the fluid level...

I've always done the rear one side at a time, so the truck is higher on the work side. Fluid will flow to the other side, I did, however, pack the bearings in grease instead of oil. The oil will break down the grease, but I thought it would be better for the initial lubrication.

I do remember when I put the new shoes on. Initially they were "pulled-in", and there was no drag nor noise when spinning the drum. I pumped them up to expand them, and then adjusted them back in until the drag was just barely noticeable.

Drive it around for a bit, and do a lot of stops. Not hard stops, just slow to a stop. Also, do a lot of stops in reverse. With the self-adjusters, everything should line up in a jiffy. After 20 miles, jack it up and take another looksie. I bet it'll all be fine as a summer day...

 

I just did all new bearings in my rear end. I assumed the same, that if the diff was filled all the way and wait, the outer bearings would get some. After several hours of sitting full to the threads, there was not a drop in the axle tubes(didn't have axles installed yet). I was told to jack up one side and let it run to the other side. Letting it set that way for several hours and wait for the thick oil to flow through the center section bearings and 3' or so down the tube was out of the question if it even would.
How I skirted the issue: with the axle out, I cleaned the mating surface and used a stip of gorilla tape on the lower 1/3 of the opening. I then filled that cavity with oil to the top of the tape and waited 20 min or so and the oil seeped through the outer bearing. I repeated this process on each side 5 times until I was confident there was plenty of oil. I then slid the axle in and got ready. I pulled the tape and slide the axle in with the bolts ready and righted them up. When I was finished I knew for fact there was oil in the bearings!