I own a 2018 Jayco Jay Flight 32BHDS [7595 dry / 955 tongue] and looking at a 2010 Ford F-250 Lariat Crew Cab 4x4 with 6.8L V10 engine with 3.73 axle ratio


The campingworld tow capacity is coming up with a tow capacity for this truck at 9800 lbs and I wanted to know:


a) is that right? every other F-250 I look at comes up at like 12k lbs or more as the max trailer weight capacity and those were all V8's


b) what are the thoughts on using this truck to two this travel trailer?


https://www.jayco.com/products/trave...flight/32bhds/


also what opinions about long travel, rpm's, mountains/hills, etc....

thanks

 

This towing guide says 12,500. http://www.trailerlife.com/wp-conten...Guide2010i.pdf

Truck should do a good job with that trailer.

 

**** UPDATE ****

axle ratio is 4.10

 

Here's a link to Ford's 2010 RV and Trailer Towing Guide. I recommend several thorough reads.

Ford's "maximum loaded trailer weight" spec for that truck with the 4.10 axle is 12,500 lbs. However, that spec is not absolute:

a) It assumes a minimally equipped tow vehicle (XL trim level, a skinny driver, no unnecessary options, no passengers, no cargo, etc.). Here's the wording from the Tow Guide, page 18:

Quote:

Select column with transmission, cab design and drive system (4x2 or 4x4) you prefer. Read down column to find the trailer weight that can be towed with engine/axle ratio combinations listed at left. GCWR column shows maximum allowable combined weight of vehicle, trailer and cargo (including passengers) for each engine/axle ratio combination. Maximum Loaded Trailer Weight assumes a towing vehicle with any mandatory options, no cargo, tongue load of 10-15% (conventional trailer) or king pin weight of 15-25% (fifth-wheel trailer) and driver only (150 pounds). Weight of additional options, passengers, cargo and hitch must be deducted from this weight. Also check Required and Recommended Equipment on page 17.

b) You have to also look at GVWR and GAWR's so that those specs are not exceeded when the truck is loaded up and the trailer hitched up (see pages 19 and 20). Ford's "official" axle and GVWR specs for the F250 CC 4x4 are not difficult to exceed due to its relatively low GVWR (9,600lbs. ?). Check the payload sticker on the driver-side B pillar; i suspect it's somewhere around 2400-2500 lbs.

c) The 21,000 GCWR spec (loaded truck plus loaded trailer) is based on sea-level operation. Ford recommends reducing GCWs and GVW by 2% per 1,000 feet of elevation; see page 32. it's not practical to reduce the weight of the truck, so the total reduction must come via a lighter trailer.

d) The Jayco's dry weight spec may be 7,595 lbs., but that's probably for a trailer with no options, no cargo or supplies, and no liquids. The trailer's GVWR is 9,975 lbs., so something closer to that may be more realistic for planning purposes.

e) The Jayco trailer's dry hitch weight spec is 955 lbs. Fully loaded, it may be more like 1,200 lbs. You'll need a weight distributing hitch (pages 28 & 29), and whatever distributed tongue weight is carried by the truck must be included as a part of the cargo calculation.

You may be cutting this a bit close, IMHO.

Ford generally recommends not using a fuel grade of lower than 87 AKI; check the owner manual. "Regular" gas in the Rocky Mountain states is often 85 AKI, so be on the lookout. You may also want to experiment with 89 AKI fuel when heavily loaded in the summer and see if this helps with overall performance, including transmission hunting when climbing hills.

Is the truck equipped with the optional "camper package"? This package won't increase the GVWR, but its beefier rear springs on the F250 may help reduce rear-end squat when heavily loaded.

Regards,
Jim / crewzer

 

Thanks SDcrewzer for all the feedback.

Though on paper it appears that the numbers are close we've met folks out there at campgrounds that are towing this exact model TT with a 1/2 ton gasser and report no problems whatsoever.

What recommendations, modifications and upgrades can you give that would give me the best chance of success out there in the open world?

any suggestions are welcome from:
shocks
hitches
towing equipment
tires
....anything....except "not getting this truck" (lol)

no disrespect meant in anything said here...

my family and I are going to go local for the first couple of trips and see how things go. If things feel stable than the search is over...if not I will sell the truck and look for something [dare I say] bigger/better [opinions aside]

I really don't think it is a matter of ability [V10 is used in 40ft motorhomes] but rather a matter of safety and driving integrity.

If you [or anyone] is going to make suggestions please speak in exacting terms [ie.give model numbers, part numbers, etc...] telling me that I need a bigger johnson rod is not offering help.

Thank you very much and I look forward to your [anyones] suggestions.

 

Getting Line-X spray on bed and full undercoating. They quoted me $699 for the bed and $699 for the undercoating. That is for the standard protection. That pricing sounds high, no?

 

Got my bed lined from the place that does it for the auto dealers for $400. Can't tell the difference from line-x. My 2000 had Rhino and it still looked good when I sold the truck. Had more of a gloss to it. As for you needing a bigger Johnson, I towed the same camper but a 2014 model with the 2000 F250, v10, 3.73, trailer pkg., but a manual tranny just fine in IN and KY before I got the 2016.

 

I am towing an Arctic fox 26x. I scaled it at 10k, tongue weight over 1400. No problems for me. Don't think my 350 is much different.

 

None taken. The 2010 1/2-ton F150 could be fitted out to tow over 9K lbs. However, the overall logic of the statement above escapes me. Specifically, you haven't had a chance to talk to the folks whose trucks didn't make it.

Suggestions:

1) Check the truck's maintenance history. If incomplete, then a thorough change of fluids (engine oil, coolant, trans, brake fluid, power steering, diffs, etc.), filters, and perhaps even the plugs and the serpentine belt is in order. Check the radiator for "cold spots" (= blockage in the radiator = reduced cooling capacity). Check for leaks.

2) Check the brake pads and rotors, and check the tires for wear and match (brand and model). Check lug nut torque. Check the jack, jack tools, and the spare tire. Carry a breaker (extension) bar for the lug nut wrench.

3) Carry tools and spares (serpentine belt, upper radiator hose, fuses, bulbs, etc.). My old 2000 F250 seemed to eat alternators; it went through three in ~15 years, with the second one dying quickly. I ended up carrying a spare.

4) You'll likely need a weight-distributing hitch. The folks at www.etrailer.com can probably help you figure out the best brand and model for your particular needs.

5) Keep loads as light as possible. For example, fill up the trailer's fresh water tank and heater after you arrive at your campground, and try to dump the black- and gray water tanks before you leave. 50 gallons of water weighs >400 lbs. Only carry one full LP tank if that's all you'll need.

6) Take your truck and trailer with a "standard" load to a local CAT scale and have it weighed.

7) Try a local shakedown cruise before wandering too far away from home. Make sure the trailer brake controller works, and check all of the trailer's electrical connections, lights, and the house battery charging function.

8) When towing uphill, you my want to lock out the top one- or two gears to minimize transmission hunting.

9) I believe Ford recommends /suggests 5W-20 engine oil for 2010 V10. This is a bit thin for my tastes. You may wish to consider 5W-20 full synthetic at a minimum, and perhaps even 5W-30 semi- or full synthetic when towing. Towing can be considered "severe service", so more frequest maintenance may be required. Pay attention to the truck's oil life monitor (if equipped).

10) Have fun!

Best of luck!
Jim / crewzer

 

Got Line-x bedliner done and undercoating. Apparently the bed was a mess and they spent 6 hours last night removing some spray on gunk that the previous owner applied. That added another $495 to the tab

It was $1847

 

Had the Line-x bedliner done yesterday along with undercoating. They called me yesterday afternoon and apparently the previous owner sprayed some cheap bedliner and was then covered up with a poly Ford bedliner. That added $500 to the tab. It was $1847 :eek

 

We just bought a 2017 Jayco 29BHDB, weight parameters are just about the same as what you mentioned. I tow with a 2004 F250 CCLB 6.8L V10 with 3.73's and it tows it very comfortably. The V10 is more than capable and same with the truck. I have added Supersprings to my truck to help keep the rear from squatting and also improves the ride. I use a EZlift WDH with 1200lb bars.

I will eventually be changing the gearing to 4.30's or 4.56's.