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Ike Gets A Clutch--Grabby Ike

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Old 06-12-2017, 09:01 PM
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Ike Gets A Clutch--Grabby Ike

I figured after finding a few good hands, I'd go ahead and start a thread here for the clutch job that will begin tomorrow after lunch time. My good friend Jarrett from the OBS side is stopping by on his way up north to help out and I have two neighbors that are retired diesel techs to give some expertise if needed.

There will be lots of photos, maybe of some stuff you don't wanna see, but it'll be here nonetheless. Stay tuned! Ike gets some needed love in the clutch area. He'll also get the input shaft repair kit and possibly a new uppie gasket if needed.
 
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Old 06-12-2017, 09:02 PM
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Oh, and a huge thanks to you guys for all your input. It makes it seem a lot less daunting when I read what others have done and how they got through the beating. LOL!
 
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Old 06-13-2017, 09:32 AM
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Get some long bolts with the same threads as the ones holding the trans to the block. Cut the heads off and round them off. Hand thread them into the block on either side a little bit and use them as guide pins. Makes the job a lot easier.
 
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Old 06-13-2017, 10:09 AM
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I'd throw in a new trans mount
 
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Old 06-13-2017, 10:56 AM
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Hey Slider, I've read on a few threads where they experienced hard shifting/soft pedal/tough to get into 1st/L.. After towing fur awhile in the summertime. I've experienced it as well. Not sure in the last go around(new clutch last summer along with m/s assy). But, one fix from a member was to wrap the hose that god to slave, with a heat shield tape/towel. From what I've heard, over time the fluid heats up/breaksfown causing the symptoms... Gunna wrap my new m/s shortly since next month I'll n be tittering 600miles for mammoth
 
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Old 06-13-2017, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
I'd throw in a new trans mount
Probably NOT a good idea, UNLESS you are also changing the motor mounts.
Its ok to do just motor mounts, but not ok to do just trans mount. It can lead to a cracked bell housing or trans case. The reason being, if the trans mount is new, and presumably stiffer then the old worn out motor mounts, then when the motor tries to twist under load, the new stiffer trans mount will put all that force into the trans case/tailshaft housing/and or bell housing area.
 
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Old 06-13-2017, 08:17 PM
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Out with the old

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The new will be in a bit...wow this clutch was destroyed!!! Things are going smooth so far and my help has been all time epic. I am grateful and humbled.
 
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Old 06-13-2017, 08:26 PM
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That's not OEM. Do you see a brand name on the clutch or pressure plate? You are difinately due for a new unit. That throw out bearing is roasted.

Hope everything goes back together well.

Good luck!
 
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Old 06-13-2017, 08:41 PM
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God dam Byron I've never seen a pressure plate that bad before, holy chet lol... glad your getting sorted out should feel like a million bucks when done.
 
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Old 06-14-2017, 02:35 AM
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Good lord, that's unbelievable. Just wow
 
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Old 06-14-2017, 05:34 AM
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I'm thinking that you should notice a difference with the new one.
 
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Old 06-14-2017, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Kay
That's not OEM. Do you see a brand name on the clutch or pressure plate? You are difinately due for a new unit. That throw out bearing is roasted.

Hope everything goes back together well.

Good luck!
Bill, from my understanding, the PO said the clutch hadn't been changed, but I was finding it hard to believe it had 245k miles in it. Maybe 155k? I don't know, but it did say "Seco" on the disc, and the pressure plate has a model number "SCGM-403". I'll do some digging. The good news is that it feels like a new truck! Pedal feel is great and it shifts very smooth.

Originally Posted by z31freakify
God dam Byron I've never seen a pressure plate that bad before, holy chet lol... glad your getting sorted out should feel like a million bucks when done.
I know right Adam?!! LOL Thing was gone. I have never seen one that bad. I don't know how it made it at all. There were nearing and teeth everywhere inside the bell housing. It definitely feels a thousand times better and it's quiet.
 
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Old 06-14-2017, 08:46 AM
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Oh, here's a few of the new. Nothing you guys haven't already seen, but I will say it's odd to me that the pilot bearing was so intact. I expected it to fall out in pieces. It and the flywheel were the best looking parts!

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It was also really good time with Jarrett. We started around 4 pm with plans to work until dark and then finish today, but we just kept plugging away and were test driving by 12:30 am. Over all, it went really smooth. The only thing I had to do was reinstall the flywheel because I lost the little bushing off the alignment tool, just like a few said would happen if I didn't epoxy it. It seems like it was in there pretty tight, but nope, popped right off! LOL!! Everything is torqued to spec and it all went back together. I HIGHLY recommend the jack! It saved us a TON of problems for the low price of $50.

Sorry for the lack of comprehensive photos, but I know this has been written about a bunch. Lemme know if anyone has questions. Thanks fellas!
 
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Old 06-14-2017, 08:55 AM
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I did do a little research and apparently this is the stock clutch that went with the ZF from the factory? Who knows? It didn't get great reviews and was pointed to as a weak link. But, if this lasted 255k like the PO stated, that's pretty crazy.
 
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Old 06-14-2017, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by BBslider001
I did do a little research and apparently this is the stock clutch that went with the ZF from the factory? Who knows? It don't get great reviews and was pointe to as a weak link, u rid this lasted 255k like the PO stated, that's pretty crazy.
I know the history of my truck and when I replaced the original clutch it only had three dampening springs in the disc. The Valair clutch I replaced it with had six springs like the one you took out.

Who knows, maybe Ford changed somethings with the clutches during these years.
 


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