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Slippage? - Advice needed - Transmission, Differential, or Engine?

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  #16  
Old 06-14-2017, 04:57 PM
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Dang, 291,000 miles without a transmission flush? It is also hard to believe that your rearend hasn't started leaking from pinion, wheel seals or cover and required service. You must have extremely good luck. I am getting ready to do my 12th transmission flush on my stock transmission.
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Old 06-14-2017, 04:59 PM
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Synthetic oils are better at slipping out
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Old 06-15-2017, 08:18 AM
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My truck, though not babied, is not pushed at all. I do as much proactive maintenance as reasonable and keep it in great condition mechanically. For all practical matters, it might as well be a cruising sedan given the way I use it and drive it. The only major stresses it has seen in the 11 years and 175K miles I've driven it has been about half a dozen short trips with a lightly loaded car hauler. Although I do drive moderately aggressively, it's never been raced or put on a dyno, either. It's had a really easy life, and it shows in how it has worn (or not).
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Old 06-16-2017, 08:39 PM
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I looked under the truck to start prepping for my differential fluid change in the morning, and it was oily-grimy-nasty, presumably from the various oil and fuel leaks I've had through recent years. I sprayed it down thoroughly with Purple Power, let it soak for about 5 minutes, and then washed it down well. Looks like most of the nasty stuff got flushed off. I also removed the spare tire first, so now, once it dries overnight, it'll be ready for me to tackle in the morning. I already have the fluid and rear differential gasket maker on hand, so I hope it won't take too long.
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Old 06-19-2017, 12:07 PM
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New Schaeffer 75w-140 fluid made a huge difference, but I still feel something going on in the 2-3 shift transition.

My next step is top off the oil and do a partial drain and top off on my trans fluid. With it having the mileage it does, I don't want to shock it with a complete flush and filter change. I'm thinking that I'll drain out about 4-6 pints and then top it off and keep doing that about once weekly for a month... then consider a complete flush and filter change.
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Old 06-19-2017, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F250_ View Post
I don't want to shock it with a complete flush
If I'm not mistaken, a complete fluid change will not cause a problem that does not already exist. The transmission will enjoy it's fluid having viscosity again.
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Old 06-19-2017, 12:52 PM
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I don't want to shock it with a complete flush and filter change.
Shocking it is a myth that just won't die. It's better to change all of the fluid that changing small amounts at a time.
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Old 06-19-2017, 02:36 PM
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How are your driveshaft ujoints? Maybe you need some smurf grease?
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Old 06-19-2017, 03:34 PM
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Pete, just as Mark said changing all of the fluid out at one time is better than mixing the old and new. Again, ask Mark said it is hard to believe that this myth is still around.
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Old 06-20-2017, 10:56 AM
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U-joints and carrier bearing are only about 1-2 years old and are well-lubed. I probably need to love on my slip joint a little, but otherwise, those drive line components are good to go.

Regarding the trans fluid myth... THANK YOU!! I was NOT aware of that being a myth and am more than prepared and glad to do a complete flush with a new screen!
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Old 06-20-2017, 11:18 AM
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There is no screen, either. It's a filter. And it doesn't need changing.
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Old 06-20-2017, 11:53 AM
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Don't even mess with the pan. Mr. Kovalsky's method with the return line allows you to exactly measure the old fluid you take out so you can replace with an identical amount of new fluid. I changed my filter at 300,000 and it was perfectly clean. When they say lifetime, they mean it.

Good luck!
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Old 06-20-2017, 01:46 PM
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Good deal. That certainly simplifies things. Thanks for the continued education, guys.

Right now, I'm in the direct path of Tropical Storm Cindy (Orange, TX) and we're trying to figure out if we're staying here as planned until Friday or if we're going to bug out early. I may or may not be able to get it done this weekend.
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  #29  
Old 06-26-2017, 08:09 AM
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No trans flush this weekend, but I think I may need to add about 1 ounce of friction modifier in with the Schaeffer fluid because there is still a little bit of "slippage" at the top of that same steep hill at very low speeds. I kept the speed very low yesterday to eliminate any of the potential 2-3 trans slippage issue, if in fact that is really what is taking place as well. I have also confirmed that when the "slippage" takes place (more of a "light clunk" than a "slight shudder"), there is no change in RPM on the tach, so it has to be either tired clutches in the LS rear end or not enough friction modifier??

Here are my observations from the fluid change I did a week ago...

a) Deep inside the rear end, there were a few polished spots on some of the gear teeth faces between the pinion and side gears -- no damage to teeth edges, just small polished spots on the faces where they meet.

b) There were no broken teeth, no notches or chips or dings on the gear teeth edges.

c) There was no metal pieces or any other crud in in the low spots in the rear end housing under the gears.

d) The magnetic fill plug had very little of anything on it... very, very little.
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