https://www.google.com/search?source...cer&gws_rd=ssl

 

Thanks Bob. I believe I ended up getting mine from Summit Racing. Pete from Michigan, (petemcl), is the member who made the original suggestion. His link for the part was Classic Inlines Performance Parts. If I remember correctly, I placed an order with them but the transaction for some reason never took place. I wasn't charged, and I didn't receive the part. That's how I ended at Summit Racing. Sadly, my truck is not drivable yet this summer, so I can't comment on how my truck is performing when hot.

Jim

 

I purchased this Heat Shield for my 223 I6 1904 Carb; works great! Here's the link.
https://scoutparts.com/1BBL_Carburet...solator/p13375

 

This is what mine looks like:




As you can see, it's fairly thick and replaces the regular gasket.

Jim

 

Here is what's left of the non-functional Heat Riser on my 55. If I understand correctly, this is in the open position. Being in Florida where it's warm 10 mos out of the year, would I be better off to try and close it?

 

[QUOTE=Steves55;17361883]Here is what's left of the non-functional Heat Riser on my 55. If I understand correctly, this is in the open position. Being in Florida where it's warm 10 mos out of the year, would I be better off to try and close it?
QUOTE]


Yes- it looks like your heat riser flap is in the open position. On my 215 I verified the flap is closed with the "flat" on the counter weight on top or up.
And Yes- I would close it. I have been driving my truck all summer with it closed and it runs better and is easier starting hot.

 

Thanks. I have shot it with some penetrating oil but so far, no luck in getting it to move. I'll spray some more and work it more tomorrow evening with some vice grips.

 

Just to add a little info... heat risers do little to prevent icing. Ice builds up at the venturi in the carb, usually in very cold, humid weather when the throttle is over 50% open. Think climbing a loong hill in winter and snow is near. The venturi has high pressure on one side, low pressure on the other - just like an orifice tube or expansion valve in a refrigeration unit. Plus, there's the fuel also passing through which doesn't help. A heat riser would have to pass a heckuva lot of heat to the carb to prevent that. Remember cars of the '60s and newer always had a pleated cardboard tube from an exhaust manifold to the air filter snorkel? That was a pre-heater stove and it existed only for one purpose - to eliminate the possibility of carb icing. Since pretty much everything now is fuel injected pre-heater stoves and plumbing have disappeared.

BTW, in my book, the absolute worst vehicles for hot re-start were Dodge V8 vans. Chrysler V8s always ran hot to begin with. Stick one in a B van, add summer heat, city driving and a/c. Stop at the inconvenience store for a pop and try to re-start. Just thinking about touching the accelerator meant you were going to be sitting for an hour or two or pulling the doghouse off for twenty minutes to let the heat out.

 

hijacking an old thread to get an answer. so if I have to have this flapper staying in a default position, would I want to leave it like #1 or #2. With the conversations about "open" or "closed" or other posts on 6cyl vs. V8's I am just wanting to make sure. Either by using a spring or other methods, I just want to make sure I have a way of operation until I get it squared away correctly. Thanks guys

 

You want it in the closed position like your #2 photo.

 

#1 position. Open. It defaults to the open position so it will be ready for the next cold start. Leaving it closed will increase your warm up time. The spring will move it to the closed position when the spring is heated by the exhaust. This is assuming it is in operating condition. If you're going to make it non-operational I'd leave it in the #2 closed position so you don't make the intake manifold too hot. You really need to understand the principles of operation of this device.

 

Closed. It would send too much heat upstairs to the carb if left open all the time, creating much bigger problems than a longer warm up period.

 

Carburetor icing most definitely does not need "very cold" weather, in fact, that's why it was so damn dangerous in aviation, because nobody expected it, or became complacent. The venturi effect can cause up to a 70° F. temperature differential compared with the ambient outside air temperature. That's right boys and girls - it can be 100 degrees outside and the carburetor throat can ice up, if the humidity is just so. Usually below 70° and humidity above 80%, is fair game. In a car it's inconvenient, it must have really sucked in a plane.

 

This was a rigged system I was using to test. Not sure if the spring is on the correct side of the post, if the counterweight should be moving up instead of down, ??? Just a hillbilly way of testing

 

I'm not sure if this is helpful, but here's a picture of the heat riser weight pointing to the 9 o'clock position. You may need to save it to your computer and zoom in on it to see better. I don't know if it's open or closed. Thinking about this logically, which can always be dangerous, as the spring heats up, it likely loses tension allowing the weight drop and close the door.