Can't find anyone with a similar issue. Here goes...


2014 F250 SuperDuty 6.2L gasser, x-cab long bed work truck. 105k miles, original owner, 1 driver, mostly highway miles, well maintained and super clean truck.






First issue occurred at 83k miles, Aug 2016. Warm summer day climbing I-70 in CO, slightly loaded, and just entered the Eisenhower tunnel (11,150' altitude). Lost power, no RPMs - not running, I put it in N and rolled as far as I could. Hazards on and no-where to pull over, hugging the wall and blocking one lane. Power OK - will crank, no fire. 1/3 tank on the fuel gauge and >100 miles distance to empty on the trip computer. Tunnel rescue shut down traffic and pushed me out into the daylight. After waiting an hour to fill our paper work for disabling the interstate tunnel I returned to the truck which quickly started. No symptoms, no lights, no codes. Topped off the fuel tank after a easy 15 mile drive downhill. Drove another 800 miles symptom free to my destination and checked it in at the dealer. At this time a check engine light had finally illuminated - PO420. I shared the story of stalling out at highway speeds with the Service Writer. Dealer replaced the cats, confirmed fuel pressure OK, computer condition OK, serviced the trans (at my request), and sent me on my way with a $3k bill.
No symptoms reoccurred during the next 20k miles until last weekend. 105k on the OD now. Heading to Flagstaff, AZ on I-40 in similar conditions. Hot, AC running, climbing in elevation, slightly loaded, running on the bottom 1/3 of the fuel tank... Died while cruising at 79 mph. Well, at least this time I wasn't in a tunnel and had a shoulder to pull off on. Deja-Vu - full power, radio on, no engine lights, gauges normal, fuel reads over 1/4 tank, >100 miles till empty on the trip computer - won't start. Cranks, but no fire. Some sputtering during start attempts must have triggered the next trouble code. Opened the hood, removed the gas cap, let it vent and cool for about 30-40 mins while I took a walk. Returned to the truck which easily started and let me drive to the next fuel station, 30 miles away. This time the check engine light stayed illuminated. It took 24 gals of fuel. Drove 3 more hours and almost 200 miles without symptoms - check engine light still illuminated keeping me curious and fully alert along the way.
Got the codes pulled at a parts store that was open on Sunday. PO300 & PO301. Random misfires and cylinder 1 misfires. Sounds consistent with poor fuel supply? Spent the rest of the day searching forums for any clue to this highway stalling. All I came up with was to clear the computer - disconnect battery, turn lights on, wait 15 mins, reconnect battery, start engine, apply brake, drive, etc. This and another full tank of gas gave me enough courage to set out on my trip home.
Next occurrence was just outside of Santa Fe, NM. Similar conditions again: Hot day, AC kicking, Interstate travelling about 80mph, slightly loaded, climbing in elevation, fuel tank just below half - stalled out. Repeat previous learned routine. Open hood, vent gas cap, walk it off for 30 mins, return to truck, start it up. Drive to next town and top off with fuel about 30 miles away - only took 16 gals! Made it home 4 hours later without stopping. No repeat symptoms, no check engine lights.
The next day a code - PO420. Catalytic efficiency below threshold.
Quick recap:
6.2L gas engine stalling at hwy speeds.
Cruising between 65-80mph
-Interstate travel - no stops between last fillup and stall.
-Warm weather, AC on
-Running on bottom ~1/2 tank
-climbing in elevation, slightly loaded


To clarify: slightly loaded - no trailer, maybe 1,500 lbs bed cargo, mostly wind drag. The most I have pumped into the fuel tank is 29-30 gals or so. I assume I have the 34 or 35 gal tank. Never seen the calculated "distance to empty" below 40 miles.


Looking forward to some insight on this "seemingly" fuel related issue?

 

Don't have a clue, but I run a snowplow on mine and one day the electrical draw seemed higher than normal when raising the plow (lights dimming, etc). Engine eventually just died, and I couldn't start it - completely dead. Came back to it a few hours later (truck cooled off) and it started right up and ran fine. Turned out to be a bad plow battery cable.

Might be electrical related and just throwing random incorrect codes? Bad battery cables maybe? Just throwing it out there.

 

Thanks 009, you bring up a good point. I've been focused on fuel delivery, or hot fuel? This truck does have a plow setup, electric controls, etc. so that's something else to consider. The plow only gets used on property so it hasn't been down the road since it was bought. However for process of elimination - I'm going to go disconnect all plow related items from power just to see.

 

Given the conditions that you are mentioning that this happens under and the mileage on your truck, I am wondering if the fuel pump needs replaced. The highway speeds with a fair load and less than half of a tank of fuel could result in an overheat of the fuel pump motor, causing it to shut down during your long haul, only to cool off after 30 minutes and work fine again, especially since you filled the tank full immediately thereafter. It would seem that the misfires and catalytic converter efficiency codes could both be related to fuel delivery issues.

Have you given the truck the full 100k service including new spark plugs, wires, COP boots, etc.? It doesn't really seem like it's related to that stuff, but I thought I would ask anyway.

 

WAY older but my '90 Bronco used to do this. Fuel pump.

If you're willing to fire the parts cannon a bit I'd replace the pump just for peace of mind and process of elimination. I would say fuel filter too but that doesn't apply here.

Carry a code reader, check FP next time this happens AT THE VERY LEAST.

It sounds like old school "vapor lock."

 

Also interestingly my Bronco first did this on I-25 S of Colo City......ya know that biggest gnarliest hill in that area between Colo City and Walsenburg with a sweeping curve? Yep, first died there. Same thing, hot day, a/c on. Sat for a few hours then fine. Second time was on top of Scotch Creek above Purgatory after a hot low range climb. Sat for a few hours then fine. I replaced the FP after that and never again a problem for years and many miles.


Again, I realize EEC-IV and OBD-I is a far cry from a '14 6.2 but internal combustion engines still have some basic requirements.


If you pass thru the Durango area much and need a "friendly" in the area PM me and I'll give you my phone number. Not that I'm an expert or could do all that much for you.....but hey I could bring you a cold beer

 

Another vote for the fuel pump and strong encouragement for the 100k tune up if you haven't already done it. Would hate to see you clog up those new cats over some worn out spark plugs.

 

You guys are great. I wasn't expecting this much feedback so quick! When this first happened 20k miles ago I suspected the fuel pump. I even requested the dealer to put one in but they gave it a clean bill of health after several "tests"??. Probably didn't want to deal with the full tank of gas... That left myself discounting the bad fuel pump theory. I'm no mechanic and I try not to tell others how to do their job - But I did feel slighted after the experience of this service visit. Even more so today pondering why they never worked up-stream of the cats to a locate a true source of failure. Also, my own fuel pump failure experiences have always happened when parked. Simply won't restart - I had never heard of a pump nodding off while running?
Murphy's law... I had scheduled the 100k mile service before I headed out for this last 2k mile road trip. Going to get all those items done at the same time it gets its first set of brake pads! Yep, over 100k on the original pads. Tribute to highway miles I guess.
Nothing worse than that stranded feeling of a break down. And I hate putting myself and other motorists in unsafe conditions. But I suppose I can look at the positive and get the fuel pump done at the same time now.
Several votes for fuel pump is almost as good as winning lottery numbers would be. Stay tuned...

 

Not sure of the setup for the '14, but the 2006 fpdm sits on the frame near the rear bumper near the spare tire and these used to corrode out causing fuel issues. look into that first, easy fix if thats the issue. I was blowing fuel pump fuses, crank but no start. Replaced the fpdm and thought i fixed it. ended up dying as i was backing out of the driveway. What it was is that i moved the wire bundle enough to get it away from the exposed wire to frame contact but then it shorted again. Just double check your wire bundle coming out of your engine compartment wrapped in silver heat shield down to the underneath of the truck then along the driver side frame channel. if that bundle is contacting the frame ANYWHERE lift it up and use a light to check for chaffed wires grounding out. If you see any wrap em up and zip tie it away from fram contact points.

 

I'm fighting the same issue with my 2003 V10. Identical symptoms, happens when hot, after sitting and cooling a while it will run fine. I assumed fuel pump relay and fuel pump inertia switch because the previous owner had the pump itself replaced about a month before I bought it. While contorting myself to get a better view this evening I found the fuel pump had NOT been replaced, either the owner or the shop he took it to lied, which is unimportant at this point. Time for a new fuel pump.

 

fuel cools the fuel pump.
heat reflected off the road... heats the fuel tank and the fuel.
going up or down steep grades and near 1/4 tank.. can cause pump to suck Air... adding heat to pump.. and could Stall pump and engine...