We're getting close to being able to pull the 460 block. All that's left is to slide the torque converter back and away from the flex plate, then remove the engine block to bell housing bolts.

For some reason, my B&M C6 transmission does not have a removable inspection plate. We ended up removing the four torque converter nuts via the starter hole in the engine back plate. Problem is, we cannot get the torque converter to slide backward, deeper into the bell housing. We tried gently tapping on the studs with a hammer, but the converter won't move. Interestingly, when we turn the engine using a breaker bar and a deep socket on the harmonic balancer bolt, it's pretty obvious that the torque converter is loose, as the studs wobble in their holes.

I do not wish to pull out the torque converter with the engine and risk damage to the converter, the input shaft, or the pump. I'm not even sure that I have enough clearance at the front of the engine to move it that far forward without removing the radiator.

That torque converter should be able to slide backward, far enough to completely clear the flex plate.

Any ideas?

 

Have you separated the bell housing from the engine yet?

I have limited experience working with automatic transmissions, but I don't think there is much space between the the torque converter and the transmission. In my cases, when I properly seated the TC onto the transmission, it almost touched the bell housing. Without connecting it to the flex plate, it does touch the bell housing.

I think you need to separate the bell housing, and therefore the transmission, from the engine in order to separate the torque converter from the flex plate.

 

Thanks xlt4wd90,

You're correct. I called a mobile auto mechanic in my area yesterday with the intent of having him do a house call to evaluate my situation. After I explained that the bell housing bolts were still installed, he recommended that I remove them, then begin to inch the engine block away from the transmission. After about an inch of travel, the separation point between the torque converter and the flex plate will be visible. At that point, I'll be able to lodge a large screwdriver between the two. The torque converter studs will slip out of their holes in the flex plate, and I'll be able to push the torque converter back to the rear of the bell housing.

 

On Fords the torque converter to flex plate studs will stick through the flex plate when the transmission is bolted to the engine. You have to be real careful when installing the the engine to transmission to make sure the studs are lined up with the holes. You can ruin the front pump in the transmission if they are not aligned.

 

It took me quite a while to figure that out. Most instructions for installing transmissions just tell you to ensure that the converter is fully seated, then bolt the engine to the bell housing, then spin the converter into position. Ford only recently started using non-studded (i.e., bolt-in) converters.