as soon as i make up my mind to use the cheap filter. oh well i can always add the racor later.

 

what do you mean increased possibily for air in suction? was wanting to do this tomorrow but now i cant find a tubing bender to extend the return line. is there a way to do this without a possibilty of something going wrong?

 

This is copy/paste from my post #13...
The fuel lines between the tank and the pump...
Use a length of 3/8 that will reach from the tank to the pump.
Attach one end of the 3/8 to the metal tank line. Use a few feet of 5/16 hose ...press a double 3/8 barb into the 5/16 hose and press the other end of the barb into the 3/8 hose, attach the open end of the 5/16 onto the wix 33972 filter...use a piece of 5/16 (6 to 12 inch length ) from filter to pump...done.

I allowed a loop in my hose, so if I ever need to trim any...I have plenty of hose to trim and still attach without streatching.

I notice you mentioning a metal bending tool...again, use the KISS system, carefully bend the metal tubing by hand, slow and careful. Don't make this a hard project when it is so easy.

 

The assembly inside the tank again.

 

For those who drop the tank...do you unscrew the fill tube from the door up top, or do you fight with the hoses up there from below?

 

unfortunately for both of us, i went back and found your post after i posted the question(which i should have deleted). How was i supposed to know the "KISS" system meant to bend the tube by hand? I have talked to several different people which all had different ways of doing this mod, so sorry if i inconvenienced you in any way

 

I undid the clamp on the fill neck/hose and vent, then dropped the tank. This was key for me as I was installing an auxiliary fuel tank at the same time which tapped into the vent line.

Once the tank was out, I removed the fill neck and widened the hole with a dremel in order to fit the commercial diesel truck pump nozzles.

 

The Wix33972 is about $8 and is disposable. I guess you could backflush it or something - but changing it all the time quickly becomes more $$$ than the Racor that you can open and clean many, many times.

People with plastic tank and good fuel will never need to change the 33972, so it's s good choice for them.

I cut the flex hose off the metal line right behind the pump on frame rail. Then just add 5/16" hose from there to pump with WIX 33972 in between. I find no reason to eliminate the quick disconnect fittings at the tank.

If if the return fuel is 'splashing' into the (low fuel) tank and it is near enough to suction hose - you could suck some air in. This is not enough of an concern for me to worry about. Like I said, I've done dozens of these the way I describe (maybe 50?) and have never seen air in the filter.

Dropping tank - I remove the (3) screws tha secure filler cap and drop it down. This makes taking hose off tank MUCH easier.

 

30R9 hose is $$$$$. The way I do in-tank and pre-pump mods costs about $20 I'm materials.

You'll have a perfect visual representation of whether or not there is air intrusion. At this point, you could easily add the additional hose and adapters, etc and go all the way to the tank. But, I've never needed to.

 

KISS means Keep It Simple.

I have a lot of respect for SSJ (and he knows it). By keeping the metal line in use, he does lower the cost.
I replaced the metal because we are talking about the lines with suction on them. The quick attach at the tank can allow air to enter the fuel line (although I doubt it would hurt anything, and might get returned to the tank through the fuel pressure regulator, and never enter the cylinders),
Using hose with clamps eliminates the air possibility.

This team just wants to help you become informed.
It is your truck, your project, your decision on which direction you want to go in.

Is there an Ace Hardware near you? Go there and buy 3 or 4 foot of 5/16 30R7 and you will be fine.
Don't forget the 3/8 double barb and clamps.