A little to preface the situation I was pulling somewhere between 4 and 5 ton about 55 mph when it shut down on me I noticed all the coolant had mixed into the oil now that I found the cause should I rebuild?
Almost 300k new hpop fuel pump injectors cps ipr icp all of those have less than 2000 miles.
i got the truck with motor "just rebuilt " from a local shop and have to replace all those parts and less than 2k miles it melts down

should I try to build this block are the cylinder sleeves removable? Should I get all new internal parts?
These motors are new to me. Will things like the crank and cam and rods last me another 100k if I put a sleeve, a couple of pistons and head?
Any educated guesses on cause of death just worn out or something like the shop the worked on it cracked a piston ring or never got it seated right or didn't get broke in after a rebuild?
Thanks for any insight

 

Is the piston melted? Probably a stuck open injector. As long as the cylinder wall is not damage a good home should do. And no the sleeves are not removable. Any engine is good for a rebuild as long as its not cracked

 

Do you know the cause? I would tear it down if you have the time to determine root cause. I had one that had both heads cracked which hydrolocked the engine.

If you are willing to gamble, craigslist may be a decent option. I replaced an engine that was dusted and had dead cylinders with a $275 engine with 450,000 mi on it. Compression was 330-360psi and it runs great!

The only rebuildable block is one that you can clean up the bores and still get a rebuild kit with those dimensions. If you cannot get the taper in spec without keeping bore in spec I wouldm not use the block.

​​​​​​ Ford does a 10,20,30 over. Aftermarket kits will also go 40 over. Personally I like to get a clean block and bore 10 or 20 over std if I can that way barring any extreme failure I still can then bore that block to 30 over as a second rebuild.

These engines are parent bore, not sleeved and no wet liners. Boring is the way to refresh.

 

It looks like that cylinder is the one that got the water in it. My guess is that the block is cracked and it is no good. You'll have to tear it down and inspect the cylinder wall very well.

 

I'm with Cleatus. I'm thinking that you popped a head gasket and the piston is smoked from compressing the coolant and smoked the jacket.

Just a thought.

Highest regards

Denny

 

Broken ring for sure. ....part of it left its mark on the crown. Once a ring breaks, it takes very little time to destroy a cylinder wall.

 

Worst case scenario you can sleeve it and get it machined to STD size. I went with .030 over, if not I would of needed to sleeve at least 6 cylinder to return it to STD and we'll that's alot of dough.

 

I'm thinking a rod is broke the piston looks like it's melted in place at tdc but the motor still turns over fine and the major water leak makes me believe the bore is cracked through to a water jacket and no visible crack in the head also you can see in the picture a pretty good size piece of piston ring on top of the piston. This thing has to be shot after that
injectors only have a couple hundred miles on them rebuilt from full force diesel. So I don't think a stuck open injector was the root cause. Going to tear down to make sure it's not salvageable first Then I'm going to be looking for a donor block on Craigslist to build or maybe find a low mile wreck on lkq any other options anyone know about?

Thanks for the info was hoping this motor had wet liners
going to tear down

 

All that you have going on there makes me wonder how long and how well it ran in that condition. I would just imagine a heap of noise, unbalanced running, smoking, etc.

FWIW, my experiences have been that a slightly used motor or tranny is better than a rebuilt one under most circumstances. For some reason rebuilt just does not last as long as new. You may have different experiences but those are mine.

Edit: a '99 engine would have been built with forged rods in it, I am curious if your rebuilt engine still has them.

 

it never ran right for me since I've had it hence the fuel pump hpop ipr icp numerous cps injectors went the long way around to find a mechanical failure think it was fuel delivery related.
Im with you on the factory build I don't believe you can buy the same quality parts for a rebuild just going to be a matter of finding something semi local with lower mileage on it
which years should I look for what are the differences on internals?
also I noticed many mismatched parts on this motor I think the shop threw this motor together with whatever spare parts they could find laying around talked to them several time and they won't give me any info on what they did or parts they used

 

Anything before 2000 and no lower than 96 for a long block, these have forged rods while the earlier 94.5 -early 95 had the 8 bolt plenums but also had forged rods. 2000 and up are a gamble because some came equipped with PMR.

 

As I see it what matters most is what you want out of it. As z1freakify said, 2000+ will have powdered metal rods as opposed to forged, which only matters if you're looking for prestige or big power. Whether you have an early 99 or 99.5+ matters if you get a short block. The HPOP, turbo, pedestal and plenums and up pipes are different between them. Something to keep in mind. Also the down pipe would need adjustment or replacement to make up for the higher sitting turbo on the later years. Other than that parts are interchangeable for the most part. If you buy a used engine you will want to probe it well for compression and cylinder leak down.

 

Thanks guys big help

 

All 2000 year model trucks will have forged rods and some 2001 models. They started using PMR's in 2001 then depleted the stock of forged rods a little later(those are the few 2001 models with the forged rods) then all years later were PMR motors until the end of production.

 

Not true. Most, not all.

Not sure why it's an issue in this thread though.