Here's a pic of the clamp and hose. Pic from underneath. You can see the bottom of the radiator at the bottom of the pic. Top of pic is engine side. Held the bottom rubber flap down for pic.



I may pull the radiator since it will be drained. Look it over carefully, pressure test it with soap for leaks.

I could inspect all the other "stuff" down in there while it's out.

Do I have to remove the fan and clutch to remove the radiator?

 

No need too just unbolt the fan shroud and pull it back towards the engine.

 

Thanks

I went to the garage, waded through rivers of water and then into a flooded garage

Only a thin amount, but enough to get my tool bags wet and make a mess of a thin coat of mud

I spent an hour digging diverter ditches and sweeping water to the door and drain. Think I'm done for the night. If the garage doesn't explode through the night, I'll start again in the am

This project is starting to have a "Survival Theme" If both me and the truck survive, it will be a miracle

 

Lol... it happens man specially when the project is almost done.

 

I hear that

After having some time to regroup I've decided to first finish the coolant problem and repair.

Then I'll pull the turbo and pedestal and pull the end cap off the EBPV solenoid cap that is leaking. After all, it's a cap and an oring, can't be that big of a deal.

If it needs polished, I'll do that. The piston end isn't leaking, it's the cap.

I do have a second (new) set of turbo orings, so I'll take a close look at those, too, just to be sure.

I plan to clean the cap and end of pedestal where it fluoresces with bleach and then lots of water. It is supposed to remove the dye so I can test again. We'll see

I will use brake cleaner to clean up the valley again, but not sure about using any bleach on it because it would have to run down the back of the motor and I don't have water (in a hose ) in the garage to wash it well enough to be sure it doesn't sit against gaskets or whatever

Hopefully tomorrow is a better day

 

After pulling the turbo and pedestal and using emory cloth to dress all the mating surfaces, cleaning ultra-like (even with Q-tips in the oring slots), and removing the rust that builds up on the exposed areas of the mating surfaces, I took some pics of the dye in the oil- through my shades to finally show the colors

Found the edges of the surfaces were very slightly raised by the uneven sanding results (edge gets a fine, shiny line), so I used a surfacing disc to carefully take that edge down a little, then shine it back up with emery cloth.

I used pieces of shop towel to plug the holes and kept a steady flow of air (breath) to blow dust away from the openings.

Even used Q-tips to dip and clean the pedestal mounting holes and threads in the valley.

Then I torqued all four *about* 35-40 ft-lbs. They are going into the motor, so no big deal. I was more careful with the two turbo bolts into the aluminum pedestal, also about the same torque.

Since the "new" orings were only installed about 150 miles and less than a week, I cleaned, inspected, and reused them.

After popping the EBPV actuator cap (again), cleaned and dressed the outer edges and the snap ring groove, which had some very minor imperfections with a pic, removing every bit of contaminant possible.

Serious, 2hrs of cleaning and dressing. Even wire brushed (with dremel wheel) the turbo and collector surfaces, and the pin + hole of the collector and turbo surfaces. Yeah, did the turbo's downpipe surface, too

When I installed the cap into the EBPV actuator hole, I noticed it liked to go in a little cockeyed, so I held the pedestal up in the air, opening down, and very carefully lifted the cap up into the spot, very carefully centered, not allowing any edge to go in unevenly.

It took a few starts, then I used my thumbs to push it in and SNAP, it went right into place! I had to force it in last time, like a tight bearing or seal. Think this was the problem and caused the leak after the first attempt

So far, NO OIL IN THE VALLEY!!!

Fuel in the valley, very green, no oil. I'll get on that shortly

 

About two gallons of straight Simple Green and a low pressure hose will really clean up an engine. I spray the entire engine(staying away from sensors, alt and such). Then from the bottle I pour heavily directly in the valley being sure to throw some in the under places. Let it sit for about an hour or so then hose it down. Again be sure to avoid electrical connections.

 

Thanks for the tips

Right now my cleaning regiment consists of cleaning the valley and then getting a good coat of oil and/or diesel fuel to keep the valley from rusting LOL.

I have the concentrated simple green. You mix it and that is what you call "straight" or you use the concentrate straight from the bottle?

 

Get your self a spray bottle it will save you the trouble of just splashing, spraying will reach all the right spots.

 

Got one, with Simple Green in it, mixed strong

 

Here's a good pic illustrating how the non-surface contact area builds up some rust and what not. Even though I smoothed and surfaced the entire thing, it seems possible the edges of the sealing surface (clean outlined area) could build up and make the gap for the orings a shade larger?

Whatever it is, I think it was a good idea to do. So far it looks like I got the top side leaks

 

I use Simple Green straight from the bottle. I don't dilute it. Yeah I use a spray bottle to cover everything liberally. I also pour from the bottle splashing under the hpop and pedestal, when I first started cleaning mine up that's where the build up was worse so I wanted a little more Simple Green in those areas.

 

Congrats, hope that solves that for you and thanks for the report, something to pay good attention to for all of us.

 

I should be clearer when I write. It seemed okay in my head, LOL

I usually get the Simple Green CONCENTRATE, but they also sell ready to use.

Do you use the concentrate without diluting, or the ready to go version? Think that is what I wanted to say,

Thanks!

 

Thanks Mark!

Good thing you didn't come to help...by now you would have had to file for a change of address LOL